With the growing demand for SUVs, 2024 introduces a range of new models that cater to drivers seeking power, safety, and advanced technology. These vehicles combine modern design with practical capabilities, making them the perfect choice for families and adventure enthusiasts alike.
In this article, we’ll explore the top 10 SUVs for 2024, focusing on the options available at Saleh Cars Group to help you choose the perfect vehicle that suits your needs.
The 2024 Kia Telluride has solidified its place as a favorite for fans of family-friendly SUVs. Its bold design with strong lines gives it a commanding road presence. Under the hood, it features a 3.8-liter V6 engine producing 291 horsepower, delivering smooth performance on highways and rugged terrains. The spacious interior is complemented by modern technology such as a large touchscreen and smart navigation system, making it a vehicle that balances comfort and practicality.
If you’re looking for an SUV that offers luxurious comfort and advanced technology, the 2024 Hyundai Palisade is a choice worth considering. Equipped with a 3.8-liter V6 engine, it delivers powerful performance with excellent fuel efficiency. Its interior is designed to meet the needs of large families with three rows of seating, along with features like intelligent climate control and an integrated infotainment system.
The 2024 Mazda CX-5 offers the perfect blend of sporty performance and sleek design. Thanks to its 2.5-liter Skyactiv-G engine, the car delivers sufficient power for daily driving with outstanding fuel efficiency. The interior design stands out for its high-quality materials and attention to detail, alongside advanced safety features such as blind-spot monitoring and forward collision warning.
For those seeking luxury in an SUV, the 2024 Genesis GV70 provides an exceptional driving experience with a sophisticated interior featuring premium materials. It comes with a 2.5-liter twin-turbo engine producing 300 horsepower, offering sporty performance with smooth handling. Advanced driving technology, such as semi-autonomous driving systems, makes the GV70 a standout choice for luxury enthusiasts.
The 2024 Honda CR-V continues to cement its reputation as one of the most reliable SUVs, thanks to its practicality and efficiency. It delivers strong performance with its 1.5-liter turbocharged engine and excellent fuel economy. The vehicle includes advanced safety technologies like lane-keeping assist and forward collision warning, making it an ideal car for daily commuting.
The 2024 Toyota RAV4 is an excellent choice for those seeking a versatile SUV. It features a 2.5-liter engine with an optional all-wheel-drive system, providing solid performance on both paved roads and off-road trails. The bold exterior design reflects strength and adventure, while the interior offers features like wireless charging and advanced safety systems.
For those looking for a family SUV that combines comfort and powerful performance, the 2024 Ford Explorer is an ideal choice. It comes with a 3.0-liter EcoBoost V6 engine producing 400 horsepower in the sporty ST trim, delivering dynamic performance. Thanks to its spacious interior and intelligent all-wheel-drive system, it provides an outstanding driving experience in all conditions.
The 2024 Nissan Pathfinder returns with a more modern design and significant improvements in performance and technology. It features a 3.5-liter V6 engine producing 284 horsepower, providing excellent capability for long-distance travel and adventures. The interior is spacious, offering modern technologies like a smart navigation system and support for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.
If you need a large SUV that accommodates the entire family, the 2024 Chevrolet Traverse is the perfect choice. It features a 3.6-liter V6 engine producing 310 horsepower, with seating for up to eight passengers. The vehicle offers a wide range of safety features, such as forward collision alert and lane-keeping assist, making it a safe and comfortable option.
The 2024 BAIC X7 Honor offers a unique experience with its modern design and advanced technological features. It comes with a 1.5-liter turbocharged engine producing 180 horsepower, paired with a smooth automatic transmission. The interior is equipped with digital displays and safety systems such as blind-spot monitoring and intelligent driving assistance, making it a strong competitor in its class.
When looking for the perfect SUV for 2024, Saleh Cars offers a wide range of premium options. With excellent after-sales services, flexible financing options, and dedicated customer support, Saleh Cars ensures a smooth and secure car-buying experience.
For more details on these vehicles and the available offers, visit the official website of Saleh Cars Group:
salehcars.com
Whether you’re looking for a luxury SUV, a family car, or a sporty vehicle, 2024 brings an impressive selection of SUVs that cater to various needs and preferences. By comparing specifications and technologies, you’ll find the perfect car that offers an exceptional driving experience.
Choose your next car with Saleh Cars and enjoy an unmatched car-buying journey! 🚗✨

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Accident damage assessment is a step you may need after a Najm or traffic police report. According to the Saudi Authority for Accredited Valuers (TAQEEM), it means determining the cost of repairing the vehicle, including parts, or estimating its market value before or after the damage. These assessments are managed electronically through the Taqdeer system, which operates under the Authority’s supervision and lets you book an appointment and check the status of your assessment. This guide covers the stage after the report: when to seek an assessment, what to prepare, how to read the report and review it with your workshop and insurer, and what to do if you disagree with the result.
On its official English website, TAQEEM describes vehicle damage assessment valuation as “the act or process of determining the value of repairing the vehicle including the spare parts, or estimating the market value of the vehicle before and after the accident”; the Arabic version also mentions labour explicitly. The outcome may therefore be a repair cost, or a market value before or after the damage, depending on the case.
TAQEEM describes Taqdeer as “an online integrated system for managing, operating, and organizing vehicle damage assessment processes” and lists “Book an appointment at Taqdeer centers” among its services. The Taqdeer system website (in Arabic) states that it operates under the supervision of the Saudi Authority for Accredited Valuers. An assessment is a technical valuation of the damage; it is neither the accident report nor your insurer’s decision.
The sequence starts with attending to and documenting the accident. If you have not completed that stage, begin with the guide to Najm reporting steps and when to call the traffic police, then return to this guide.
The official pages we relied on do not state that an assessment is required for every accident, nor do they describe the content of report messages. Follow what the accident report and your insurer require in your case, and ask before any repair starts, because repairing damage before it is assessed may cost you the chance to document it as it was. Useful questions for your insurer:
The Taqdeer website presents the service in three consecutive stages, which can be summarised as follows:
If your plans change before the appointment, the manage bookings service allows you, according to the site, to modify or cancel the booking, and the assessment centers page helps you find the nearest centers in your city. We do not mention numbers of centers, timings or fees here; follow what the service shows for your case when you book.
The pages we reviewed do not publish a document list, so the list below is practical rather than an official requirement; what the booking screen and center ask for takes precedence:
Do not repair the damage being assessed before the appointment unless the relevant authority tells you to, and do not drive an unsafe car; arrange transport if you notice a leak, a red warning light or a steering fault.
The report format may vary from case to case, but the Authority’s definition shows what it centres on: labour, spare parts, or market value before or after the damage. Use the table to review it item by item:
| Item | What to Check | What to Ask |
| Vehicle and accident details | The car and the accident reference match | Do these details relate to my car and this accident? |
| Spare parts | The listed parts compared with the documented damage | What type of part does the assessment assume? |
| Labour | Listed work such as bodywork and paint | Does the work cover all the damage I documented? |
| Market value | Whether a value before or after the damage is stated | On what basis was this value reached? |
To understand how the type of part affects a repair, see genuine vs aftermarket vs used car parts. Do not assume the report specifies the type of part unless it says so explicitly; ask about it.
The assessment sets a value, while the compensation and repair path is governed by your policy and your insurer. Check your policy type and what it covers in the guide to comprehensive versus third-party car insurance, and do not assume that the assessed amount is what you will receive in every case.
If the car needs sensor or camera calibration after the repair, ask whether it is included in the assessment or in the workshop’s quote.
We did not find a published objection mechanism for assessment results on the official pages we reviewed, so we do not describe a specific procedure. The right step is to ask the source about the official procedure:
Do not accept a settlement you disagree with before you understand its consequences, and ask for written replies where possible.
The report and invoice help you later when you sell the car or when a buyer asks about the accident. The guide to reading a Mojaz report and its limits explains how accident records in a vehicle history should be understood and what cannot be concluded from them.
If you are a buyer looking at a car with signs of repair, ask for the assessment report and invoice if they exist, and use the guide on how to tell whether a car has been repaired alongside an independent technical inspection.
No. The report documents the accident, while the assessment estimates the repair cost or the market value of the vehicle before or after the damage.
Do not rely on a general rule; follow what the accident report and your insurer require in your case, and ask them before repairing the car.
The Taqdeer website offers an assessment status inquiry service and lists receiving the report electronically as one of the service stages.
The website offers a manage bookings service for changes and cancellations; follow what the service shows for your booking.
Not necessarily. Compensation depends on your policy and your insurer’s procedures, so ask your insurer how it is calculated in your case.
After the report, ask your insurer what your case needs, book the assessment through the official system and read the report item by item before any repair. If you disagree, ask Taqdeer and your insurer about the official procedure, and keep your documents for the future.

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Vehicle registration renewal is available electronically through Absher vehicle services once the service requirements are met and the automated eligibility check is passed. Start by reviewing insurance, technical inspection and any required payments, then select the vehicle, choose registration renewal and confirm the transaction. Istimara means the vehicle registration here, not the person’s driving licence. This guide explains what to prepare and how to handle a renewal that cannot proceed, without confusing renewal with ownership transfer or an inspection booking.
Renewal extends the registration of a previously registered vehicle. The official vehicle registration renewal page on the National Portal explains that the service is available electronically through Absher without visiting traffic offices, and that eligibility is checked automatically against the service requirements. Reaching the vehicle screen therefore does not establish that renewal is complete.
When checking an expiry date, first identify the document: a driving licence relates to the driver, while vehicle registration relates to the vehicle. This distinction matters when researching requirements; do not apply driving licence renewal conditions to registration renewal. Follow the service name shown in your account rather than an old screenshot of a different menu.
The official service page lists the following requirements. Use them as a checklist before starting, while also referring to what the service displays for your vehicle when you apply. A receipt or an old copy of a document is not a substitute for checking its validity and that it relates to the intended vehicle.
The required-documents tab also specifies an existing vehicle registration. This guide does not add requirements to upload photographs or other documents simply because somebody else encountered them; follow what the service actually requests. Because renewal eligibility is checked automatically, verify availability in your account rather than deciding based on a date quoted in an unofficial explanation.
Start with insurance: open the policy details and check that the policy is valid and covers the same vehicle. To distinguish the type of cover from the validity of a policy, read about comprehensive versus third-party car insurance. Choosing cover that fits your needs is different from checking a renewal requirement; the name of the cover alone does not establish that an application will be accepted.
Next, review the inspection certificate. If you need to prepare for an appointment, use the periodic vehicle inspection preparation checklist to organise technical checks, not as proof of passing. Inspection is a separate process with its own result, not a renewal-screen button that substitutes for a valid certificate.
Then review violations and any payment requirements displayed. The guide to checking, paying and disputing traffic violations explains the related services. Do not confuse filing a dispute with satisfying the renewal payment requirement; rely on the displayed status and the relevant authority’s instructions rather than assuming another action removed the obstacle.
The following route follows the official service instructions. Read the details on each screen before moving on. If the menus appear in a different order in your interface, look for vehicle registration renewal under vehicle services rather than selecting another service because its name is similar.
Payment alone, or closing the screen, does not prove successful renewal. If your session ends before the result appears, return to the vehicle details and check what actually happened before repeating the steps. The aim is to confirm that the correct vehicle’s registration was updated, not simply to complete a sequence of clicks.
These services may relate to the same vehicle, but each serves a different purpose. Use the table to identify your starting point, then review the relevant service conditions separately. Do not assume completing one also completes another.
| Procedure | Purpose | What Does Not Prove Completion? |
| Registration renewal | Renew the vehicle registration | Buying insurance or booking an inspection alone |
| Ownership transfer | Transfer the vehicle to another owner | Registration renewal alone |
| Technical inspection | Inspect the vehicle and obtain its result | An appointment without the inspection taking place |
If your aim is to sell or buy the vehicle, review the Absher ownership transfer steps and sale conditions instead of treating renewal as a substitute for transfer. Organise your notes under separate headings: registration status, insurance status, inspection result and transfer transaction status when relevant. This helps avoid confusing different documents.
An unmet published requirement is a possible reason renewal cannot proceed, but it does not explain every message. Start with the text displayed in your account and review the item it identifies, rather than repeating the request or changing several things without understanding the issue.
When contacting support, explain where the process stopped and which documents you checked. Never share your password or verification code, and hide personal details in any screenshot you post. This is a way to organise follow-up, not a guarantee of processing time or acceptance.
In short, prepare the vehicle requirements, renew the registration through Absher and verify the result. If the process cannot proceed, address the item identified in the message or request official clarification, without assuming fees, deadlines or exceptions that the service does not show.

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A Mojaz report helps you read a used car’s history through the records available; it does not deliver a final verdict on its condition. Start by matching the vehicle’s identity, then read mileage, accident and maintenance records chronologically and compare them with documents and the car’s current condition. No accident record does not mean accident-free, and missing mileage readings do not validate the odometer. Use the report to identify seller questions and professional inspection priorities before deciding to buy, not as a replacement for inspection.
The official Mojaz homepage (in Arabic) says it brings together key historical vehicle data from official sources in one report. Its report outline lists vehicle information, odometer reading history, accident records, maintenance and repairs, warranty information, spare parts, vehicle reputation and related images.
These are section names presented by the service, not a promise that every section contains data for every car. Read what is actually available, and do not turn a blank field into a positive or negative finding. Likewise, do not infer a specific rating or acceptance standard from the vehicle reputation heading; use any accompanying explanation and ask about unclear descriptions before relying on them.
Before discussing findings, establish that the report belongs to the actual car being offered. Ask to see the full version rather than a cropped image of a reassuring section, and match its identification details to the vehicle documents and the car. Do not rely on a similar colour or general description, or dismiss an identification mismatch as a minor error without checking.
For identification details and their locations, see the guide to vehicle identification numbers, while paying attention to the name of each identifier in the document you are reading.
Read the date of each distance reading, not just the last number. Put the available readings in order from oldest to newest, then compare the latest with the car’s odometer during the viewing. Check measurement units first; do not directly compare figures expressed in different units. Your aim is to understand the sequence and identify questions, not estimate true mileage from cabin appearance alone.
If the seller mentions an odometer replacement, ask for the work record and evidence of readings before and after replacement, if available. Do not fill a missing sequence with estimates or treat consistent readings alone as a guarantee that the entire usage history is known.
If an accident record appears, read its details as written and compare them with repair documents supplied by the seller. Do not reduce the assessment to a record count or label damage minor or severe without supporting information. A report may describe a historical event, while repair quality and present condition need an independent inspection.
If related images appear, check their connection to the event, the vehicle and their date whenever that information is available. A photograph does not reveal everything behind visible parts, and missing images do not rule out damage. Where structural repairs are suspected, request a specialist inspection. The guide to signs of bodywork and structural repairs can help you frame questions, not make your own technical verdict.
If no accident record appears, the accurate wording is: no event is visible in the data you are reading. Do not replace that with the car has never had an accident, or let that inference cancel the inspection or the request for repair documents.
Read available maintenance and repair entries with their dates, comparing them with the seller’s invoices. Distinguish a record of past work from proof that the relevant system works well today. If a repair description recurs, ask what was done and what happened afterwards, without automatically assuming a particular fault or an unsuccessful repair.
Warranty information alone does not mean cover is active or transferable to you; verify the document and terms with the relevant provider. Equally, do not infer from a spare parts section that every component is genuine or in good condition. A missing maintenance record does not prove neglect, but leaves a question requiring documents and inspection.
Compare documented work with the appropriate owner’s manual requirements alongside a professional. Do not derive a new servicing schedule from the report or assume one completed job means all other scheduled work was done or related components are sound.
Use this table to organise your notes; it is not a real sample vehicle report. Always distinguish what you read, what you still do not know and the next step needed to close that gap.
| What you read | What it does not prove alone | Next step |
| Consecutive odometer readings | Complete mileage history | Compare with the odometer and documents |
| No odometer readings | Accuracy of current mileage | Seek more evidence and document the gap |
| An accident record | Current repair quality | Repair documents and specialist inspection |
| No visible accident record | An accident-free car | Professional body and paint inspection |
| Recorded maintenance work | The component’s condition today | Compare with the current inspection |
| Warranty information | Active cover for the buyer | Verify terms with the relevant provider |
Start with an open question about the car’s usage history, then address unclear report entries. Request specific answers that can be connected to documents; personal trust or numerous photographs are not substitutes for verification. Keep your notes separate from the original report so your interpretations do not become confused with its records.
Give the professional your report and notes before inspection, and request an assessment of the current structure, mechanical and electrical systems and safety components. Do not simply seek confirmation of an existing impression: ask what was checked and what could not be verified. To organise the rest of the viewing, see the used car inspection tips before purchase.
If a material identity or mileage discrepancy appears, or a significant repair remains unexplained, postpone the decision until it is clarified. If the gap cannot be closed, treat it as unknown information rather than proof of sound condition. Once the technical assessment is settled, review the vehicle ownership transfer steps on Absher separately; a history report does not replace the sale procedures.
In short, read a Mojaz report as available evidence and open questions, not a certificate that the car has no defects. Match its identity, review the timeline and connect the findings with documents and an independent inspection. A stronger decision clearly distinguishes what is established from what remains unknown.

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Car brand logos are the badges and names each manufacturer places on the front grille, the boot lid and the centre of the steering wheel, and the easiest way to learn them is to group them by country of origin: Japanese badges such as Toyota's three ovals, Korean ones such as Hyundai's slanted H, and Chinese brands, many of which spell out their full name in Latin letters, alongside German, European and American badges. In this guide you will find each brand's name as it is written and said, a short description of its badge, its meaning where it is documented, and a table for quick comparison.
A car badge (the logo or emblem) is the trademark that identifies the manufacturer, and it usually appears in several places:
Badges fall into two types: a standalone symbol such as a star, rings or a lion, or a name spelled out in letters, as with many American and new Chinese brands, and knowing this difference helps you recognise a car from a distance.
Japanese badges are very familiar on the Kingdom's roads, and most are simple symbols that are easy to remember:
Chinese cars have become familiar in the Saudi market, and their best-known badges include:
Many Chinese brands have appeared in recent years, some cannot be recognised from the badge alone, and here are practical ways to tell them apart:
European badges often rely on old symbols with well-known stories:
American badges tend towards written names and simple shapes:
A quick summary of each brand's badge:
| Brand | Country of origin | Badge description |
| Toyota | Japan | Three ovals |
| Nissan | Japan | Name inside a thin circle |
| Honda | Japan | Upright letter H |
| Mitsubishi | Japan | Three red diamonds |
| Hyundai | Korea | Slanted H in an oval |
| Kia | Korea | The word KIA in a sharp script |
| Changan | China | V shape inside a circle |
| Chery | China | A-like symbol in an oval |
| Jetour | China | Name in Latin letters |
| Haval | China | HAVAL in large letters |
| MG | Britain (Chinese owner) | MG inside an octagon |
| BYD | China | The letters BYD |
| Mercedes-Benz | Germany | Three-pointed star in a circle |
| BMW | Germany | Circle with blue and white quarters |
| Audi | Germany | Four interlinked rings |
| Volkswagen | Germany | VW letters in a circle |
| Peugeot | France | Lion |
| Ford | USA | Blue oval |
| Chevrolet | USA | Gold bowtie |
| GMC | USA | Red GMC letters |
Car brand logos become easier to remember when you link each badge to its country and parent company, read the name written on the boot when in doubt, and check the registration card and the VIN before any purchase decision. You can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to get to know the different brands and models.

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If you are asking when to replace car tyres, the short answer is: replace a tyre when the surface of the tread reaches the level of the raised wear indicators inside the grooves, when a bulge, a deep cut or clear cracks appear in its sidewall, or when the rubber has aged to the point at which the tyre or car manufacturer recommends replacement, even if the tread looks good. In this guide we explain how to check your tyres, what the wear pattern reveals, and how to choose the right replacement.
Replacement is not tied to a single distance for every car, but to the tyre's condition and its maker's recommendations. The main signs are:
Inside the grooves are small raised bars called wear indicators, whose location is marked by the letters TWI or a small triangle on the tyre's shoulder, and when the tread surface is level with them, the tyre has reached the end of its usable life. To check:
Do not wait until they are exactly level if you travel often or drive in the rain, as water clearance and grip weaken gradually as the tread gets shallower.
The sidewall flexes with every turn of the wheel and carries the car's weight, so any damage to it is more dangerous than tread wear:
The wear pattern reveals the cause of the problem, and if you do not fix it, new tyres will wear the same way:
| Wear pattern | Likely cause | What to do |
| Both edges more than the centre | Pressure lower than recommended | Set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker and check it regularly |
| Centre more than the edges | Pressure higher than recommended | Set the recommended pressure, not the maximum pressure printed on the tyre |
| One inner or outer edge | Wheel alignment or suspension fault | Check the alignment and suspension parts |
| Diagonal, feather-like wear | Incorrect toe between the two wheels | Have the alignment set at an equipped workshop |
| Repeated patches or scallops | Unbalanced wheels or worn shock absorbers | Balance the wheels and check the shock absorbers |
| A single flat spot | Hard braking with a locked wheel, or standing a long time without moving | Have a specialist assess the tyre |
If you see wear on both edges, start by reviewing the causes, signs and solutions for low tyre pressure, and if the wear is on one edge or comes with the car pulling to one side, read about the difference between wheel balancing and alignment.
Rubber ages over time even if the car is used little, and you will find how to tell a tyre's age from the DOT code in our article on how to read tyre size and manufacture date. There is no single lifespan for all tyres, so refer to the tyre and car makers' recommendations. In the Kingdom's climate, some factors speed up deterioration:
Ideally all four tyres match, but replacing them all together is not always necessary:
The spare forgotten in the boot ages just like the other tyres, even if it is never used:
Choose what your car was designed for, not just what the shop has in stock, and check the following:
The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization offers the Energy Efficiency Label for Tires service, and explains that the label serves as a guide for consumers before purchasing the product to increase their awareness of its energy efficiency before buying it.
The organization lists tyres among the products subject to the efficiency label regulations, and the aims of these labels include reducing energy consumption for the consumer, enabling the consumer to know a product's efficiency before buying, and protecting consumer safety and health and the environment. In practice:
Checking your tyres takes only minutes: look at the wear indicators, inspect the sidewall, notice the wear pattern and read the manufacture date. If a danger sign appears, do not postpone the change; choose a replacement with the recommended size, load and speed ratings, then fix the cause of any uneven wear.

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Choosing a car battery starts with confirming that the battery really is the cause of the problem, then matching what the owner’s manual or the current battery label specifies: size and mounting, terminal orientation, capacity in Ah, cold cranking amps (CCA) and battery technology. After that, check the manufacture date and warranty terms, and make sure installation is done properly, which may include registering the battery in the car’s system. This guide explains each step in general terms; your owner’s manual and a qualified technician remain the reference for your car’s specifications.
Do not buy a battery just because the car failed to start once. Weak starting can be linked to the battery, but also to the starter motor, the connections or the charging system. Ask a specialist to test the battery and charging system with suitable equipment, and review the car battery failure symptoms and how to test them to recognise signs worth checking.
If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the battery may not be the cause; see the guide on an engine that cranks but will not start. If the battery keeps going flat, there may be a hidden electrical drain in the car, and fitting a new battery without fixing the cause may simply pass the problem on to it. Once testing confirms the battery, prepare the following before visiting the seller:
The first reference is the owner’s manual, then the label of the original battery if it is still fitted. The table below summarises what to compare before paying and where to find it.
| Item | Where to find it | Why it matters |
| Size or group | Owner’s manual or current battery label | Defines overall dimensions and fit on the tray |
| Mounting dimensions | Battery tray and hold-down clamp | A poorly secured battery vibrates and can be damaged |
| Terminal orientation | Position of the positive and negative terminals on the current battery | A different layout may stop cables reaching or strain them |
| Capacity (Ah) | Label or owner’s manual | Indicates the energy stored in the battery |
| Cold cranking amps (CCA) | Label | Indicates the battery’s ability to deliver starting current |
| Technology type | Label and owner’s manual | Must suit the charging system and any stop-start system |
Two batteries can look alike yet differ in terminal orientation, height or mounting lip. Ask the seller to compare the new battery directly with the old one. If the current label differs from the manual, the previous battery may not have matched in the first place; rely on the manual or ask the dealer or a qualified technician.
Capacity in Ah describes how much energy the battery stores, which matters when the battery powers the car’s systems with the engine off. Cold cranking amps (CCA) describe the battery’s ability to deliver a high current at the moment of starting in cold conditions, according to a specific test standard.
A label may state CCA according to a different standard from another battery, so only compare two figures measured to the same standard, and ask the seller to clarify. The general rule is not to go below the car’s specified capacity or current.
On the other hand, a higher figure is not automatically better; what matters is that the battery keeps the correct size and technology. In cars that record battery data in their system, the actual capacity of the new battery may need to be entered during registration, so tell the technician about any difference from the original.
The general idea of each type is as follows, while the manual decides what your car needs:
In a car with automatic stop-start, the battery handles frequent engine restarts and powers systems while the engine is stopped. Fitting a lower technology than specified, such as a conventional flooded battery instead of EFB or EFB instead of AGM, may weaken system performance, shorten battery life and trigger warning messages. Moving to a higher technology should only happen if the owner’s manual or the dealer allows it.
If the battery sits inside the cabin or boot, the manufacturer may specify a sealed type or a particular vent outlet; do not fit a different battery in that location without confirming that it matches.
The manufacture date usually appears as a code printed on the lid or case or on a small sticker, and the code format differs between manufacturers, so ask the seller to explain the code on the battery itself, and prefer the most recently made battery among the matching options.
A battery stored for a long time may lose some charge, so ask whether the seller tested it before sale. For the warranty, read the written terms on the invoice or warranty card rather than relying on a verbal promise, and pay attention to the following:
High temperatures speed up the reactions inside a battery and may increase fluid loss and ageing of the internal plates. This does not mean choosing a battery simply because it is marketed for heat; it means sticking to the correct specification and technology and choosing a recently made battery.
After installation, help the battery by parking in the shade where possible, keeping the terminals clean and checking the battery and charging system during routine maintenance. For more on how heat affects the car in general, read the summer car care guide for Saudi heat.
If you are not confident about the steps, leave the installation to a qualified technician. If you fit it yourself, wear eye protection and gloves, switch the engine off and keep the key away, disconnect and reconnect the terminals in the order given in the owner’s manual, avoid letting a metal tool touch both terminals, and keep any sparks or flames away from the battery.
After installation, start the car and watch for any warning message. If one appears, return to the technician to check the installation and registration rather than trying to clear the warning yourself.
A battery contains acid and lead, so do not open it, drain it or put it in household waste. Keep it upright, protect its terminals from contact, and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling. If it is cracked or leaking, do not touch it with bare hands and ask the workshop to handle it.
Slow cranking with dim lights may point to the battery, while a click with bright lights may point to the starter motor. These are indications, not a diagnosis, so have the battery and charging system tested and review the signs of a failing starter motor before buying.
It may be possible in some cases if the size and technology still match, but the decision rests with the owner’s manual and the technician, especially in cars that record battery data in their system.
This is not recommended; use the technology specified in the manual, such as EFB or AGM, because a lower technology may not withstand the frequent restart pattern.
No, but some cars require it using a diagnostic tool. Ask the technician or check the manual before installation, and do not assume the swap is complete once the terminals are connected.
Do not open it or throw it away with household waste. Keep it upright and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling.
First confirm that the battery is the problem, then match size, terminals, capacity, CCA and technology to the owner’s manual, and check the manufacture date and warranty terms. Leave installation and registration to a technician if you are unsure, and dispose of the old battery safely.