As part of strengthening strategic partnerships among leading companies in the automotive sector, Saleh Cars Group, in collaboration with Petromin, hosted a distinguished official event to unveil the all-new Commander 2026 model.
The ceremony was attended by:
Alongside a number of automotive industry enthusiasts.
The event took place at Saleh Cars Group’s headquarters in Riyadh – Al Thumama Branch, at 3:30 PM on Tuesday, October 14, 2025.
The launch showcased the vehicle’s latest features and advanced technologies, reflecting both companies’ vision to deliver cutting-edge models to the Saudi market.

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Car brand logos are the badges and names each manufacturer places on the front grille, the boot lid and the centre of the steering wheel, and the easiest way to learn them is to group them by country of origin: Japanese badges such as Toyota's three ovals, Korean ones such as Hyundai's slanted H, and Chinese brands, many of which spell out their full name in Latin letters, alongside German, European and American badges. In this guide you will find each brand's name as it is written and said, a short description of its badge, its meaning where it is documented, and a table for quick comparison.
A car badge (the logo or emblem) is the trademark that identifies the manufacturer, and it usually appears in several places:
Badges fall into two types: a standalone symbol such as a star, rings or a lion, or a name spelled out in letters, as with many American and new Chinese brands, and knowing this difference helps you recognise a car from a distance.
Japanese badges are very familiar on the Kingdom's roads, and most are simple symbols that are easy to remember:
Chinese cars have become familiar in the Saudi market, and their best-known badges include:
Many Chinese brands have appeared in recent years, some cannot be recognised from the badge alone, and here are practical ways to tell them apart:
European badges often rely on old symbols with well-known stories:
American badges tend towards written names and simple shapes:
A quick summary of each brand's badge:
| Brand | Country of origin | Badge description |
| Toyota | Japan | Three ovals |
| Nissan | Japan | Name inside a thin circle |
| Honda | Japan | Upright letter H |
| Mitsubishi | Japan | Three red diamonds |
| Hyundai | Korea | Slanted H in an oval |
| Kia | Korea | The word KIA in a sharp script |
| Changan | China | V shape inside a circle |
| Chery | China | A-like symbol in an oval |
| Jetour | China | Name in Latin letters |
| Haval | China | HAVAL in large letters |
| MG | Britain (Chinese owner) | MG inside an octagon |
| BYD | China | The letters BYD |
| Mercedes-Benz | Germany | Three-pointed star in a circle |
| BMW | Germany | Circle with blue and white quarters |
| Audi | Germany | Four interlinked rings |
| Volkswagen | Germany | VW letters in a circle |
| Peugeot | France | Lion |
| Ford | USA | Blue oval |
| Chevrolet | USA | Gold bowtie |
| GMC | USA | Red GMC letters |
Car brand logos become easier to remember when you link each badge to its country and parent company, read the name written on the boot when in doubt, and check the registration card and the VIN before any purchase decision. You can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to get to know the different brands and models.

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Overheating without coolant loss is possible: coolant visible in the reservoir does not prove that it circulates through the engine or releases heat effectively. The fault may involve coolant flow, airflow or cooling controls, and the temperature reading itself may also need checking. If an overheating warning appears, stop somewhere safe, switch off the engine and request assistance. Do not keep driving because the reservoir looks full.
The everyday expression water level refers here to engine coolant, not a recommendation to use plain water. This article focuses on a level that appears normal despite an overheating warning. For the wider picture, see the guide to engine overheating causes and what to do.
The reservoir’s role and the method for reading its level depend on the cooling-system design: it may be a pressurized part of the system or a recovery tank. Coolant also expands when hot, so comparing a hot reading with a cold one cannot establish system health. A visual reading within the marks on a cold engine, following the manual, tells you only about the level. It does not prove that passages are free of air or restrictions, or rule out a fault or a leak whose effects are not yet apparent.
The cooling system must move heat away from the engine and then transfer it to the air through the radiator. A failure at either stage can raise the temperature without an obvious drop in level. These are possibilities for inspection, not a shopping list of replacement parts:
For an explanation of circulation specifically, read about the water pump’s role in circulating coolant. Mentioning the pump does not make it the most likely cause in your car, and replacing it without checking the rest of the system may not solve the problem.
Record only the conditions you already observed during previous use. Do not drive again or leave the engine running to reproduce overheating. The pattern can help a workshop organize its checks, but it is not a conclusive diagnosis:
| Previous observation | What might the technician check? | What does it not prove? |
| Temperature rises at a stop and eases when moving | Airflow, fan performance and fan control | It does not prove that only the fan is faulty |
| The warning appears on the highway or uphill | Coolant flow and heat exchange under load | It does not identify the pump or radiator specifically |
| It began after a coolant change or repair | Correct filling, trapped air and connections | It does not confirm trapped air without checks |
| It coincides with air conditioning use | Cooling performance as load and airflow change | It does not prove low AC refrigerant |
If the connection with AC use is your main observation, there is a separate explanation of engine overheating when the air conditioning is on. The key point here is that a normal coolant level cannot rule out a cooling fault, whatever the conditions when the warning appears.
A temperature sensor, its wiring or the display system may affect the reading. However, do not assume the warning is false because the reservoir is full or you cannot see steam. Some cooling faults show no obvious external sign at first. Treat the warning seriously until a qualified technician verifies the actual temperature and readings.
The technician compares diagnostic data and appropriate measurements with the vehicle’s specifications and operating conditions. A fault code alone cannot condemn a part, and the absence of a code does not prove that cooling is normal. There is also no single operating temperature for every car. Use the owner’s manual and vehicle-specific service information to interpret the gauge and warning message.
Once the engine has cooled completely, you may record the level visible from outside the reservoir if this is possible and safe according to the manual, without removing caps or parts. A normal level or a warning that disappears after shutdown does not establish that the fault has gone or that continuing the journey is safe.
Tell the technician when the warning appeared: while stopped, climbing or travelling. Mention any preceding service work or fluid addition. Describe the message and any smell or steam you noticed from a safe position. Photograph the dashboard only after stopping, and do not reproduce the fault for documentation.
If initial checks do not identify the cause, broader diagnosis may be necessary. Do not jump to a head-gasket diagnosis, or rule it or another internal fault out solely because the reservoir level is stable. Testing should determine the next step.
If the level is within the correct limits, adding fluid will not repair a fan or restore impaired flow, and may exceed the permitted fill level. Use coolant meeting the vehicle’s specification and the concentration stated in the manual. Plain water is not a universal substitute, and color alone does not establish compatibility. Read about coolant differences and choosing a suitable fluid for more context.
Do not mix unknown products or experiment with additives to treat overheating. Flushing and air removal are not identical procedures on every vehicle; leave them to a professional when technically justified. Maintaining the correct level matters, but it is only one part of system health, not a replacement for checking performance.
Not necessarily; it depends on the system design and condition. The visible level alone does not prove correct filling or circulation, and never justifies opening a hot cap.
No. Leakage is not the only possible sign of a pump fault. Its ability to circulate coolant needs appropriate assessment, not just a look underneath the car.
A lower reading does not prove the fault has gone. After an overheating warning, do not resume driving to test the car; request assistance and inspection before using it again.
Do not remove the thermostat as an experiment: it is part of cooling regulation. A technician should assess it and fit the correct replacement if necessary.
No. The overheating can be real despite a stable level. Do not ignore the warning or disconnect the sensor; have the reading and system performance checked together.
A stable coolant level neither rules out overheating nor identifies its cause. Stop safely at a warning, switch off the engine, avoid hot caps and fans, and give your observations to a qualified technician. A sound repair starts with evidence of the fault, not extra water or random parts replacement.

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Choosing a car battery starts with confirming that the battery really is the cause of the problem, then matching what the owner’s manual or the current battery label specifies: size and mounting, terminal orientation, capacity in Ah, cold cranking amps (CCA) and battery technology. After that, check the manufacture date and warranty terms, and make sure installation is done properly, which may include registering the battery in the car’s system. This guide explains each step in general terms; your owner’s manual and a qualified technician remain the reference for your car’s specifications.
Do not buy a battery just because the car failed to start once. Weak starting can be linked to the battery, but also to the starter motor, the connections or the charging system. Ask a specialist to test the battery and charging system with suitable equipment, and review the car battery failure symptoms and how to test them to recognise signs worth checking.
If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the battery may not be the cause; see the guide on an engine that cranks but will not start. If the battery keeps going flat, there may be a hidden electrical drain in the car, and fitting a new battery without fixing the cause may simply pass the problem on to it. Once testing confirms the battery, prepare the following before visiting the seller:
The first reference is the owner’s manual, then the label of the original battery if it is still fitted. The table below summarises what to compare before paying and where to find it.
| Item | Where to find it | Why it matters |
| Size or group | Owner’s manual or current battery label | Defines overall dimensions and fit on the tray |
| Mounting dimensions | Battery tray and hold-down clamp | A poorly secured battery vibrates and can be damaged |
| Terminal orientation | Position of the positive and negative terminals on the current battery | A different layout may stop cables reaching or strain them |
| Capacity (Ah) | Label or owner’s manual | Indicates the energy stored in the battery |
| Cold cranking amps (CCA) | Label | Indicates the battery’s ability to deliver starting current |
| Technology type | Label and owner’s manual | Must suit the charging system and any stop-start system |
Two batteries can look alike yet differ in terminal orientation, height or mounting lip. Ask the seller to compare the new battery directly with the old one. If the current label differs from the manual, the previous battery may not have matched in the first place; rely on the manual or ask the dealer or a qualified technician.
Capacity in Ah describes how much energy the battery stores, which matters when the battery powers the car’s systems with the engine off. Cold cranking amps (CCA) describe the battery’s ability to deliver a high current at the moment of starting in cold conditions, according to a specific test standard.
A label may state CCA according to a different standard from another battery, so only compare two figures measured to the same standard, and ask the seller to clarify. The general rule is not to go below the car’s specified capacity or current.
On the other hand, a higher figure is not automatically better; what matters is that the battery keeps the correct size and technology. In cars that record battery data in their system, the actual capacity of the new battery may need to be entered during registration, so tell the technician about any difference from the original.
The general idea of each type is as follows, while the manual decides what your car needs:
In a car with automatic stop-start, the battery handles frequent engine restarts and powers systems while the engine is stopped. Fitting a lower technology than specified, such as a conventional flooded battery instead of EFB or EFB instead of AGM, may weaken system performance, shorten battery life and trigger warning messages. Moving to a higher technology should only happen if the owner’s manual or the dealer allows it.
If the battery sits inside the cabin or boot, the manufacturer may specify a sealed type or a particular vent outlet; do not fit a different battery in that location without confirming that it matches.
The manufacture date usually appears as a code printed on the lid or case or on a small sticker, and the code format differs between manufacturers, so ask the seller to explain the code on the battery itself, and prefer the most recently made battery among the matching options.
A battery stored for a long time may lose some charge, so ask whether the seller tested it before sale. For the warranty, read the written terms on the invoice or warranty card rather than relying on a verbal promise, and pay attention to the following:
High temperatures speed up the reactions inside a battery and may increase fluid loss and ageing of the internal plates. This does not mean choosing a battery simply because it is marketed for heat; it means sticking to the correct specification and technology and choosing a recently made battery.
After installation, help the battery by parking in the shade where possible, keeping the terminals clean and checking the battery and charging system during routine maintenance. For more on how heat affects the car in general, read the summer car care guide for Saudi heat.
If you are not confident about the steps, leave the installation to a qualified technician. If you fit it yourself, wear eye protection and gloves, switch the engine off and keep the key away, disconnect and reconnect the terminals in the order given in the owner’s manual, avoid letting a metal tool touch both terminals, and keep any sparks or flames away from the battery.
After installation, start the car and watch for any warning message. If one appears, return to the technician to check the installation and registration rather than trying to clear the warning yourself.
A battery contains acid and lead, so do not open it, drain it or put it in household waste. Keep it upright, protect its terminals from contact, and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling. If it is cracked or leaking, do not touch it with bare hands and ask the workshop to handle it.
Slow cranking with dim lights may point to the battery, while a click with bright lights may point to the starter motor. These are indications, not a diagnosis, so have the battery and charging system tested and review the signs of a failing starter motor before buying.
It may be possible in some cases if the size and technology still match, but the decision rests with the owner’s manual and the technician, especially in cars that record battery data in their system.
This is not recommended; use the technology specified in the manual, such as EFB or AGM, because a lower technology may not withstand the frequent restart pattern.
No, but some cars require it using a diagnostic tool. Ask the technician or check the manual before installation, and do not assume the swap is complete once the terminals are connected.
Do not open it or throw it away with household waste. Keep it upright and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling.
First confirm that the battery is the problem, then match size, terminals, capacity, CCA and technology to the owner’s manual, and check the manufacture date and warranty terms. Leave installation and registration to a technician if you are unsure, and dispose of the old battery safely.

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To check car recalls in Saudi Arabia, enter the VIN on the official recall platform, then read the campaign details and follow the instructions for your vehicle. A matching model name or model year alone does not establish inclusion, and no result does not mean the car is defect-free. If a campaign applies, contact the responsible party named in it, ask about driving instructions and an appointment, and retain confirmation of the completed repair.
A recall is an action to address an announced defect, not a general description of every problem a car develops. The Ministry of Commerce explains that its enquiry service checks whether products or vehicles are included in campaigns announced in cooperation with manufacturers and local agents. Start with the official source rather than a shared image or a message of unknown origin.
Refer to the Ministry of Commerce defective products enquiry service (in Arabic) for the service sequence: access the platform, enter the VIN or search for the product, then follow the campaign details and required actions. Do not assume a recall means replacing the car; the relevant action is the one specified for the campaign once its applicability to your vehicle is confirmed.
Have the vehicle identification number, or VIN, ready. Read it from a reliable document for the car or from the location identified in the owner’s manual. Do not substitute the registration plate number or another identifier simply because its name sounds similar. For help identifying it, see the guide to your vehicle identification number, then match the details to the actual car.
Do not send full images of your documents to untrusted accounts to make an enquiry. Start through the official channel and provide what the responsible party requests through its authorised contact method, without posting your details in public comments.
Searching by product or brand name helps you find announcements, but it does not replace matching the individual car. Keep the date of your enquiry and a copy of the details for reference. Do not treat an old screenshot as a permanent answer about recalls, particularly when a new notice arrives.
Distinguish finding an announcement from confirming that your vehicle is included, and distinguish inclusion from actual completion of the required action. This table helps you choose the next step; it does not represent fixed status labels used by the platform:
| What did you find? | What should you do? |
| An announcement naming your car model | Match the VIN and check the campaign scope before assuming it applies to your car. |
| A result indicating that the vehicle is included | Read the campaign instructions and contact the party responsible for carrying out the action. |
| No result, or a search that could not be completed | Check the entry; if you have a notice or a specific concern, seek confirmation from the relevant party. |
| The seller says the repair was completed | Request the completion document and match it to the VIN and the relevant campaign. |
The absence of a recall result does not guarantee safety or replace an inspection when there are unusual symptoms. Likewise, do not attribute a noise or vibration to a campaign simply because its description seems similar. Diagnosing a fault requires a professional, while the enquiry answers a different question: whether the car is included in the campaign.
Read the full defect description, risk and instructions before planning a trip to a service centre. There is no single driving recommendation for every campaign. If the announcement specifies instructions about use or stopping, follow them. If anything remains unclear, ask the responsible party how to handle and transport the car before moving it.
Do not deliberately try to reproduce the defect, dismantle a suspected component or cancel a warning to continue driving. If the action requires a part or technical work, do not assume that buying a replacement yourself closes the campaign. To understand parts choices outside this process, read the guide to genuine, aftermarket and used car parts; follow up recall work with the party responsible for it.
When collecting the car, request a document showing the work performed and its date, linked to the VIN and campaign. Check that the details concern your car, and ask whether the action is complete or another step remains. An appointment confirmation or service-centre visit alone does not necessarily show that the recall work is finished.
Keep the document with the vehicle records, a copy of the announcement and important correspondence. If a later search seems inconsistent with the completion document, show both to the responsible party and request clarification instead of assuming one overrides the other. If symptoms remain or a concern appears after the work, report it and request a technical assessment. Proof of campaign repair is not a certificate that the car has no other faults.
Add a check for open recalls, meaning those whose required action is not yet complete, to your pre-purchase checklist. Request the VIN, match it to the car and search for yourself rather than relying on a verbal assurance or an image for a similar vehicle. If the seller mentions a completed earlier campaign, request its document and review the VIN and work details.
If a campaign applies and completion is unclear, ask the responsible party what remains before deciding to buy or use the vehicle. Do not make a recall result a substitute for a technical inspection or a review of the car’s condition; combine it with these used car inspection tips before purchase. The aim is to establish what has been verified and what needs follow-up, not to obtain a comprehensive guarantee from one search result.
Start with the correct VIN, read the full announcement and follow up with the responsible party until completion and documentation are clear. Make the enquiry part of caring for a car and checking it before purchase, not a replacement for a technical inspection or its specific safety instructions.

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Vehicle ownership transfer in Saudi Arabia is done electronically through the vehicle sale service on the Absher platform, without visiting traffic offices: the seller enters the buyer's ID number and date of birth, the agreed sale price and the seller's bank account; the buyer then receives a notification of the request within one hour and accepts or declines it, transfers the price through Absher's secure payment system, insures the vehicle and pays the fees, and once the car is received, checked and the delivery is confirmed on Absher, ownership is officially transferred. Both parties must be registered on Absher, the vehicle registration (istimara), periodic inspection and insurance must be valid, and there must be no violations on the buyer or the vehicle.
The Ministry of Interior offers the vehicle sale service through the Absher platform, and the National Platform describes it as a service that enables individuals to sell their private vehicles and transfer ownership electronically after its dues are cleared, after reaching an agreement with the buyer and completing all required procedures, including vehicle inspection to ensure compliance with conditions, registering the vehicle under the buyer's identity, and issuing the vehicle registration license.
Procedures and conditions may be updated from time to time, so confirm the latest steps on the Absher platform or the National Platform before you start.
Before the seller starts the request, both parties should review the conditions listed on the service page on Absher, as failing to meet any of them may stop the sale:
The page also mentions limits on the number of vehicles of certain types that a resident may own, so review them on Absher if the buyer is a resident. If the periodic inspection is close to expiring, prepare the car early using the checklist on how to prepare your car for the periodic inspection.
After agreeing with the buyer on the price and other terms, the seller starts the request with these steps, as set out by the National Platform:
Ownership does not pass to the buyer until they complete their steps on the platform, which according to the National Platform are:
The table below summarises the role of each party at every stage of the sale:
| Stage | Seller | Buyer |
| Before starting | Agree on the price and terms, and check the istimara, periodic inspection and insurance are valid | Register on Absher and make sure there are no violations on them |
| Creating the request | Enter the buyer's ID, date of birth, price and bank account, then confirm | Wait for the Absher notification |
| Responding | Wait for acceptance or refusal | Review the details and accept or decline the request within one hour |
| Payment | Receive the price in the bank account entered in the request | Transfer the price through Absher's secure payment system |
| Insurance and fees | The platform lists no step for the seller at this stage | Insure the vehicle and pay the government fees and Absher fees |
| Delivery | Hand the vehicle over to the buyer after they accept the sale | Receive and check the vehicle, then confirm delivery on Absher |
If you are handing your car over to a family member, Absher has a separate service called vehicle ownership transfer between family members, which allows vehicle ownership to be waived between family members electronically once the current owner and the new owner agree. The National Platform lists its steps as follows:
The platform organises the procedure, but it does not replace inspecting the car yourself; the service page on Absher states that the sale takes place after the vehicle has been viewed and inspected and the seller and buyer have agreed. Here are practical tips before accepting the request:
Transferring car ownership through Absher is a clear process if you prepare for it: check the conditions, agree on the price, inspect the car before accepting, pay through the platform's secure payment system, and do not confirm delivery before checking the car. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.

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The difference between the two types of car insurance in Saudi Arabia is that third-party insurance, which is the compulsory insurance, compensates the third party for the physical and material damage your vehicle causes and does not cover your own car, while comprehensive insurance compensates you for damage or loss to your car, including fire, theft, floods and hail, and also includes liability towards third parties. Here we explain what each type covers and excludes as stated in the official documents, what the deductible means, and how to choose the right policy.
These are the main differences as stated in the Saudi Central Bank documents; the details follow in the next sections:
| Item | Third-party | Comprehensive |
| Status | Compulsory | Not compulsory; includes third-party liability cover |
| Physical and material damage to third parties | Covered within the policy limits | Covered as per the unified policy |
| Damage to your car in an accident you cause | Excluded | Covered after deducting the deductible |
| Fire, theft, floods and hail | Not covered for your car | Included |
| Towing your damaged car and storing it | Not provided for | Included up to the amount stated in the schedule |
| Death or injury of the driver | Excluded | An optional cover offered before the policy is issued |
The Unified Compulsory Motor Insurance Policy sets the minimum limit of civil liability cover towards third parties. If an accident occurs within the borders of the Kingdom and causes damage that is not excluded, the insurer compensates the third party for what the insured, the driver or the person responsible for the accident is liable to pay for:
A third party is anyone who suffers damage that is not excluded, other than the insured or the driver responsible for the accident; so this insurance protects others from your mistakes and does not repair your car. Subject to the exceptions, the insurer may not refuse to compensate the injured party because of a violation committed by the driver, but it keeps the right to recover from them in cases set out in the policy, such as driving against traffic, running a red light, and driving without a licence suitable for the type of vehicle.
Cases the unified policy excludes from compensation include:
According to the Comprehensive Motor Insurance Rules, the company compensates the insured for any risk causing damage or loss to the vehicle, including fire, theft, lightning and natural disasters such as floods and hail, in addition to third-party civil liability as per the unified policy. Compensation works as follows:
Before issuing the policy, the company must offer you optional covers: renting a replacement vehicle, roadside assistance, death, injuries and medical expenses of the driver or named driver, and accidents outside the Kingdom; any you decline become excluded.
The main exclusions in the rules include:
The company and the insured may agree to waive any exclusion unless that conflicts with the law, so ask about the ones that matter to you before signing.
The rules define the deductible as the amount borne by the insured for any claim as stated in the policy schedule, and they control how it is applied:
In practice, it is what you will pay out of your own pocket in every accident you are liable for, so compare offers by it as well, not by the policy cost alone.
The decision depends on whether you could bear the cost of repairing or losing your car yourself, so review these factors:
The policy schedule is an integral part of the policy, so check:
These provisions may be updated, so confirm the latest version on the official website of the Insurance Authority, and the terms of your policy with a licensed insurance company.
In short: third-party insurance is the compulsory minimum that protects others from damage caused by your vehicle, and comprehensive insurance adds protection for your own car in return for a deductible you agree on. Choose according to your car's value, its financing and how you use it, and read the policy schedule before you pay. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.