BAIC X7 Honor

CVT vs automatic: neither is the best choice for everyone. What matters is how the car responds in your daily use, the transmission’s condition and its service history, not its name alone. You may prefer the continuous acceleration of the former or the distinct shifts of the latter. Before buying, identify the actual transmission, drive the car in suitable conditions and separate normal behaviour from a symptom requiring professional inspection. This is a buying comparison, not a blanket reliability verdict.

 

CVT vs Automatic: What Exactly Are We Comparing?

Here, CVT means a conventional design that continuously varies its transmission ratio using variable pulleys and a metal belt or chain, depending on its construction. Conventional automatic means a transmission with fixed gear ratios that shifts between them and uses a torque converter to transfer power between the engine and transmission. The comparison does not cover every technology described as automatic or erase differences within either family.

A torque converter alone does not identify the type: some CVTs also use one. Likewise, do not assume that an e-CVT in a hybrid is the same pulley-and-belt transmission. The term can describe a hybrid system that varies the relationship between engine speed and vehicle movement differently. Architectures vary between systems, so consult the description of the particular vehicle rather than relying on the letters.

For an introduction to other designs, read the guide to transmission types and how they work; here, the focus is what to observe and verify when choosing.

 

How Do Acceleration and Shifts Feel Different?

With a CVT, engine sound may rise and engine speed may stay relatively steady while the car continues gaining road speed. This can be part of ratio control, not sufficient evidence of transmission slip. Software may also simulate stepped shifts, so the tachometer alone cannot identify transmission type or establish its health. What matters is a predictable response appropriate to the driving situation.

In a stepped automatic, engine speed may fall on an upshift or rise when you request more acceleration. How noticeable each shift feels depends on calibration, the engine and cabin isolation. Not every perceptible shift is a fault, but repeated harsh jolts should not be accepted merely because the transmission is conventional. Compare with a healthy car of the same specification if possible and seek professional advice when unsure.

 

A Comparison Table for Setting Your Priorities

Comparison point	Conventional CVT	Stepped automatic
Acceleration	Continuous ratio changes, sometimes with simulated shifts	Shifts between fixed ratios with varying smoothness
Sound and feel	May hold higher engine speed during acceleration	Engine sound may change noticeably during shifts
Suitability check	Observe pull-away smoothness and whether the acceleration sound suits you	Observe shift timing and response to acceleration requests
Maintenance	Fluid specification and schedule depend on the particular transmission	Fluid specification and schedule depend on the particular transmission
Buying decision	Vehicle condition and use matter more than the label	Vehicle condition and use matter more than the label

 

Which Suits Traffic, Long Trips and Hills?

Describe your daily driving rather than ranking technologies from best to worst. In traffic, assess low-speed control and the transition between stopping and moving. On an open road, notice refinement at a steady speed and the response to moderate, legal acceleration. The engine, weight, accelerator calibration and insulation can influence your impression as much as transmission type, so do not attribute every difference to it.

If you regularly drive on hills or carry passengers and luggage, check load limits and driving instructions in the owner’s manual. Do not infer towing capability from the transmission name or test loads or gradients outside permitted limits. For fuel consumption, compare data for the exact trim and engine under comparable measurement conditions; a CVT does not guarantee lower fuel use on every trip.

 

What Should You Verify About Fluid and Service History?

Ask for invoices showing service dates, mileage and the fluid specification used, not merely a statement that the fluid was changed. Do not assume automatic transmission fluid suits a CVT or that all CVT fluids are interchangeable. The reference is the approved specification for that transmission and its correct service procedure. Transmission type alone cannot establish one fluid-change schedule for every car.

Discuss how your operating conditions affect the service schedule with a qualified provider, along with any documented repairs or leaks. Do not request an indiscriminate fluid change or flush as a cure for every vibration, and do not open hot components to inspect fluid yourself. Read about transmission fluid changes and care for general background, then give your vehicle’s manual priority over conflicting general advice.

 

A Pre-Purchase Checklist for Either Transmission

Treat the drive as a way to gather observations, not a certificate that the car is fault-free. Agree on a safe, permitted route and have a passenger take notes without distracting you. Do not deliberately overheat the transmission or use aggressive launches to expose faults.

1. Confirm the transmission in the actual vehicle’s specifications and production year. Advertisement wording and selector appearance are insufficient, and specifications may differ between trims.
2. Review the service history and any previous replacement or repair. Ask why the repair was needed and what was done; request documents rather than relying on verbal reassurance.
3. Start with gentle driving and observe pull-away, low-speed movement and gradual acceleration. Stay within speed limits and never watch the instruments at the expense of the road.
4. With the car fully stopped and the brakes applied, observe its response when selecting forward or reverse as instructed in the manual. Never switch direction while moving or repeat the manoeuvre aggressively.
5. Note whether the observation occurred at the start or after driving, with or without air conditioning, and whether it repeated under the same conditions. Do not set a universal delay threshold separating healthy from faulty.
6. Before a final agreement, arrange an independent professional inspection including an appropriate road test and electronic checks when needed, with an explanation rather than just a fault-code printout.

To compare comfort, visibility and the rest of the car as well, use the pre-purchase test drive checklist alongside these transmission-specific checks.

 

When Does an Observation Need Professional Diagnosis?

Repeated vibration, a noticeable response delay, a temperature warning or a sudden performance change deserves assessment, but none proves transmission failure by itself. The engine, its mounts or other systems may contribute. Describe when the symptom appeared rather than requesting transmission replacement based on a video or personal impression.

If a temperature warning or loss of drive affects safety, end the test in a safe place, follow the owner’s manual and seek appropriate help. Do not clear warnings or keep accelerating to test them. Read about transmission symptoms that warrant inspection to recognise possible observations, not to diagnose your car or assume one definite cause.

 

Frequently Asked Questions About CVT and Automatics

Does Steady Engine Speed Mean a CVT Is Slipping?

Not necessarily; acceleration can continue at nearly constant engine speed. A changed response with reduced drive or a warning needs professional assessment, not a verdict from the tachometer alone.

Does a Conventional Automatic Always Last Longer?

It is not sound to generalise lifespan or reliability across all designs. Condition, history, maintenance and use are essential when assessing an individual car.

Can Both Types Use the Same Transmission Fluid?

Do not assume compatibility from a fluid’s name or colour. Check the specification required for the exact transmission and have a professional follow its approved service procedure.

Is e-CVT the Same as a Belt CVT?

Not necessarily: similar names do not establish identical construction. Check the explanation of the hybrid’s system; systems described by this term do not necessarily share one design.

Is a Short Drive Enough to Establish Transmission Health?

No; some symptoms may not appear during a short drive. Combine it with service records and an independent inspection, especially when documents are missing or observations remain unexplained.

 

Conclusion: Choose the Right Car, Not Just a Label

Choose after defining your use, testing the response and verifying maintenance and inspection findings. Do not reject a CVT solely because it sounds different, or accept a conventional automatic with unexplained symptoms. A stronger decision combines driving suitability with documented condition and clear instructions for caring for the car.

Choosing a car battery starts with confirming that the battery really is the cause of the problem, then matching what the owner’s manual or the current battery label specifies: size and mounting, terminal orientation, capacity in Ah, cold cranking amps (CCA) and battery technology. After that, check the manufacture date and warranty terms, and make sure installation is done properly, which may include registering the battery in the car’s system. This guide explains each step in general terms; your owner’s manual and a qualified technician remain the reference for your car’s specifications.

When Should You Start Choosing a Car Battery?

Do not buy a battery just because the car failed to start once. Weak starting can be linked to the battery, but also to the starter motor, the connections or the charging system. Ask a specialist to test the battery and charging system with suitable equipment, and review the car battery failure symptoms and how to test them to recognise signs worth checking.

If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the battery may not be the cause; see the guide on an engine that cranks but will not start. If the battery keeps going flat, there may be a hidden electrical drain in the car, and fitting a new battery without fixing the cause may simply pass the problem on to it. Once testing confirms the battery, prepare the following before visiting the seller:

• A clear photo of the current battery label showing all printed details.
• The battery specification page in the owner’s manual, if available.
• Whether the car has an automatic engine stop-start system.
• Where the battery sits: engine bay, boot or under a seat.

 

Which Specifications Should Match the Manual or Label?

The first reference is the owner’s manual, then the label of the original battery if it is still fitted. The table below summarises what to compare before paying and where to find it.

Item	Where to find it	Why it matters
Size or group	Owner’s manual or current battery label	Defines overall dimensions and fit on the tray
Mounting dimensions	Battery tray and hold-down clamp	A poorly secured battery vibrates and can be damaged
Terminal orientation	Position of the positive and negative terminals on the current battery	A different layout may stop cables reaching or strain them
Capacity (Ah)	Label or owner’s manual	Indicates the energy stored in the battery
Cold cranking amps (CCA)	Label	Indicates the battery’s ability to deliver starting current
Technology type	Label and owner’s manual	Must suit the charging system and any stop-start system

Two batteries can look alike yet differ in terminal orientation, height or mounting lip. Ask the seller to compare the new battery directly with the old one. If the current label differs from the manual, the previous battery may not have matched in the first place; rely on the manual or ask the dealer or a qualified technician.

 

What Do Capacity (Ah) and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) Mean?

Capacity in Ah describes how much energy the battery stores, which matters when the battery powers the car’s systems with the engine off. Cold cranking amps (CCA) describe the battery’s ability to deliver a high current at the moment of starting in cold conditions, according to a specific test standard.

A label may state CCA according to a different standard from another battery, so only compare two figures measured to the same standard, and ask the seller to clarify. The general rule is not to go below the car’s specified capacity or current.

On the other hand, a higher figure is not automatically better; what matters is that the battery keeps the correct size and technology. In cars that record battery data in their system, the actual capacity of the new battery may need to be entered during registration, so tell the technician about any difference from the original.

 

What Is the Difference Between Flooded, EFB and AGM Batteries?

The general idea of each type is as follows, while the manual decides what your car needs:

• Conventional flooded battery: common in cars without an automatic stop-start system; some serviceable types need the electrolyte level checked.
• EFB battery: an enhanced flooded battery built to withstand repeated starting and discharge cycles better than a conventional one, used in many cars with stop-start systems.
• AGM battery: the electrolyte is absorbed in glass fibre mats and the battery is sealed; it copes better with electrical loads and repeated discharge, and is used in cars with higher electrical demands.

In a car with automatic stop-start, the battery handles frequent engine restarts and powers systems while the engine is stopped. Fitting a lower technology than specified, such as a conventional flooded battery instead of EFB or EFB instead of AGM, may weaken system performance, shorten battery life and trigger warning messages. Moving to a higher technology should only happen if the owner’s manual or the dealer allows it.

If the battery sits inside the cabin or boot, the manufacturer may specify a sealed type or a particular vent outlet; do not fit a different battery in that location without confirming that it matches.

 

How Do You Read the Manufacture Date and Warranty Terms?

The manufacture date usually appears as a code printed on the lid or case or on a small sticker, and the code format differs between manufacturers, so ask the seller to explain the code on the battery itself, and prefer the most recently made battery among the matching options.

A battery stored for a long time may lose some charge, so ask whether the seller tested it before sale. For the warranty, read the written terms on the invoice or warranty card rather than relying on a verbal promise, and pay attention to the following:

• What the warranty covers, how a fault is proven, and whether the battery must be tested by the seller.
• Whether installation elsewhere, or fitting the battery to a car it does not match, affects the warranty.
• Which documents are needed for a claim; keep the invoice somewhere easy to find.

 

How Does Saudi Heat Affect Your Battery Choice?

High temperatures speed up the reactions inside a battery and may increase fluid loss and ageing of the internal plates. This does not mean choosing a battery simply because it is marketed for heat; it means sticking to the correct specification and technology and choosing a recently made battery.

After installation, help the battery by parking in the shade where possible, keeping the terminals clean and checking the battery and charging system during routine maintenance. For more on how heat affects the car in general, read the summer car care guide for Saudi heat.

 

What Should You Consider When Installing the New Battery?

If you are not confident about the steps, leave the installation to a qualified technician. If you fit it yourself, wear eye protection and gloves, switch the engine off and keep the key away, disconnect and reconnect the terminals in the order given in the owner’s manual, avoid letting a metal tool touch both terminals, and keep any sparks or flames away from the battery.

• Battery registration: some cars require the new battery to be registered in the energy management system with a diagnostic tool so that charging is adjusted for a new battery. Ask the technician whether your car needs this.
• Saving settings: disconnecting the battery may erase settings such as the clock and radio, and some systems may need resetting according to the manual. Some technicians use a memory saver during the swap.
• Clean terminals: remove corrosion from the terminals and cable ends, and check that the clamps are sound before connecting.
• Secure mounting: fix the battery with its hold-down clamp so it cannot move, tighten the terminals without excessive force, and refit the protective covers.

After installation, start the car and watch for any warning message. If one appears, return to the technician to check the installation and registration rather than trying to clear the warning yourself.

 

How Do You Dispose of the Old Battery Safely?

A battery contains acid and lead, so do not open it, drain it or put it in household waste. Keep it upright, protect its terminals from contact, and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling. If it is cracked or leaking, do not touch it with bare hands and ask the workshop to handle it.

 

Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing a Car Battery

How can I tell a battery fault from a starter fault?

Slow cranking with dim lights may point to the battery, while a click with bright lights may point to the starter motor. These are indications, not a diagnosis, so have the battery and charging system tested and review the signs of a failing starter motor before buying.

Can I fit a battery with a higher capacity than the original?

It may be possible in some cases if the size and technology still match, but the decision rests with the owner’s manual and the technician, especially in cars that record battery data in their system.

Can I fit a conventional battery to a car with stop-start?

This is not recommended; use the technology specified in the manual, such as EFB or AGM, because a lower technology may not withstand the frequent restart pattern.

Do all cars need the new battery to be registered?

No, but some cars require it using a diagnostic tool. Ask the technician or check the manual before installation, and do not assume the swap is complete once the terminals are connected.

What should I do with the old battery after replacing it?

Do not open it or throw it away with household waste. Keep it upright and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling.

 

Conclusion

First confirm that the battery is the problem, then match size, terminals, capacity, CCA and technology to the owner’s manual, and check the manufacture date and warranty terms. Leave installation and registration to a technician if you are unsure, and dispose of the old battery safely.

A Mojaz report helps you read a used car’s history through the records available; it does not deliver a final verdict on its condition. Start by matching the vehicle’s identity, then read mileage, accident and maintenance records chronologically and compare them with documents and the car’s current condition. No accident record does not mean accident-free, and missing mileage readings do not validate the odometer. Use the report to identify seller questions and professional inspection priorities before deciding to buy, not as a replacement for inspection.

What does a Mojaz report show, and what are its limits?

The official Mojaz homepage (in Arabic) says it brings together key historical vehicle data from official sources in one report. Its report outline lists vehicle information, odometer reading history, accident records, maintenance and repairs, warranty information, spare parts, vehicle reputation and related images.

These are section names presented by the service, not a promise that every section contains data for every car. Read what is actually available, and do not turn a blank field into a positive or negative finding. Likewise, do not infer a specific rating or acceptance standard from the vehicle reputation heading; use any accompanying explanation and ask about unclear descriptions before relying on them.

 

Start by matching the car and the report version

Before discussing findings, establish that the report belongs to the actual car being offered. Ask to see the full version rather than a cropped image of a reassuring section, and match its identification details to the vehicle documents and the car. Do not rely on a similar colour or general description, or dismiss an identification mismatch as a minor error without checking.

• Check the VIN if shown, comparing every character with the documents and its designated location on the car; seek professional help if anything is unclear.
• Note the report date if visible, distinguishing it from the event dates inside; a recent report may contain only an older record.
• Write down any data mismatch and ask for an explanation before evaluating mileage or accidents or concluding the agreement.

For identification details and their locations, see the guide to vehicle identification numbers, while paying attention to the name of each identifier in the document you are reading.

 

How do you read odometer records chronologically?

Read the date of each distance reading, not just the last number. Put the available readings in order from oldest to newest, then compare the latest with the car’s odometer during the viewing. Check measurement units first; do not directly compare figures expressed in different units. Your aim is to understand the sequence and identify questions, not estimate true mileage from cabin appearance alone.

1. Write the date and reading exactly as shown, distinguishing report information from something the seller says or a figure on an invoice.
2. If a later reading is lower than an earlier one, request a documented explanation and discuss possibilities with a professional; the inconsistency warrants a pause but is not a standalone diagnosis of tampering.
3. If there is a long gap, ask for documents covering that period; do not assume the car was unused throughout it.
4. If there are no readings at all, note that mileage has not been verified through this method instead of automatically accepting the current figure.

If the seller mentions an odometer replacement, ask for the work record and evidence of readings before and after replacement, if available. Do not fill a missing sequence with estimates or treat consistent readings alone as a guarantee that the entire usage history is known.

 

How should you interpret accident records and available images?

If an accident record appears, read its details as written and compare them with repair documents supplied by the seller. Do not reduce the assessment to a record count or label damage minor or severe without supporting information. A report may describe a historical event, while repair quality and present condition need an independent inspection.

If related images appear, check their connection to the event, the vehicle and their date whenever that information is available. A photograph does not reveal everything behind visible parts, and missing images do not rule out damage. Where structural repairs are suspected, request a specialist inspection. The guide to signs of bodywork and structural repairs can help you frame questions, not make your own technical verdict.

If no accident record appears, the accurate wording is: no event is visible in the data you are reading. Do not replace that with the car has never had an accident, or let that inference cancel the inspection or the request for repair documents.

 

How do you relate maintenance and repairs to current condition?

Read available maintenance and repair entries with their dates, comparing them with the seller’s invoices. Distinguish a record of past work from proof that the relevant system works well today. If a repair description recurs, ask what was done and what happened afterwards, without automatically assuming a particular fault or an unsuccessful repair.

Warranty information alone does not mean cover is active or transferable to you; verify the document and terms with the relevant provider. Equally, do not infer from a spare parts section that every component is genuine or in good condition. A missing maintenance record does not prove neglect, but leaves a question requiring documents and inspection.

Compare documented work with the appropriate owner’s manual requirements alongside a professional. Do not derive a new servicing schedule from the report or assume one completed job means all other scheduled work was done or related components are sound.

 

A reading checklist: information and limits of inference

Use this table to organise your notes; it is not a real sample vehicle report. Always distinguish what you read, what you still do not know and the next step needed to close that gap.

What you read	What it does not prove alone	Next step
Consecutive odometer readings	Complete mileage history	Compare with the odometer and documents
No odometer readings	Accuracy of current mileage	Seek more evidence and document the gap
An accident record	Current repair quality	Repair documents and specialist inspection
No visible accident record	An accident-free car	Professional body and paint inspection
Recorded maintenance work	The component’s condition today	Compare with the current inspection
Warranty information	Active cover for the buyer	Verify terms with the relevant provider

 

Which questions should you ask the seller?

Start with an open question about the car’s usage history, then address unclear report entries. Request specific answers that can be connected to documents; personal trust or numerous photographs are not substitutes for verification. Keep your notes separate from the original report so your interpretations do not become confused with its records.

• Is this the full version for this exact vehicle? Which documents support the details or explain a visible discrepancy?
• Has the odometer been repaired or replaced? Are invoices or saved readings available for periods with no visible record?
• Are you aware of body repairs, repainting or accidents not shown here? What work was done and which documents are available?
• Where was the most recent service performed, what was actually done, and which recommended jobs remain outstanding?
• Will you allow an independent inspection and a review of findings before agreement? How can your explanation of a record mismatch be documented?

 

What still needs inspecting before you decide to buy?

Give the professional your report and notes before inspection, and request an assessment of the current structure, mechanical and electrical systems and safety components. Do not simply seek confirmation of an existing impression: ask what was checked and what could not be verified. To organise the rest of the viewing, see the used car inspection tips before purchase.

If a material identity or mileage discrepancy appears, or a significant repair remains unexplained, postpone the decision until it is clarified. If the gap cannot be closed, treat it as unknown information rather than proof of sound condition. Once the technical assessment is settled, review the vehicle ownership transfer steps on Absher separately; a history report does not replace the sale procedures.

 

Frequently asked questions about reading a Mojaz report

1. Does no accident record mean the car is sound? No. It means an accident record is not visible in the available data you read. Body condition and repair quality still need inspection.
2. Does the report validate the car’s mileage? Available reading sequences help comparisons but do not guarantee a complete history. If readings are missing, mileage cannot be accepted on the report alone.
3. Is every section available for every car? Do not assume this from the section names on the website. Read the actual content and ask about missing information or unclear wording.
4. What if the report contradicts the seller? Identify the conflicting entry, ask for a document explaining it and show it to a professional. Neither ignore the conflict nor automatically turn it into an accusation.
5. Does a Mojaz report replace a technical inspection? No. A history report presents available historical information, whereas an inspection assesses current condition within its scope. Combine both with documents before deciding.

 

In short, read a Mojaz report as available evidence and open questions, not a certificate that the car has no defects. Match its identity, review the timeline and connect the findings with documents and an independent inspection. A stronger decision clearly distinguishes what is established from what remains unknown.

Vehicle driving authorization on Absher is an electronic service that lets a vehicle owner add an authorized person to drive the vehicle inside or outside the Kingdom, depending on the type of authorization selected. The owner starts from Vehicles, then Manage Vehicles, selects the vehicle, chooses Authorize Vehicles and then Issue Authorization. Before that, the vehicle registration must be valid with active insurance, and both parties must have Absher accounts. This guide covers the conditions, steps, period limits, the difference from ownership transfer and what the owner should check first.

 

What Is Vehicle Driving Authorization on Absher?

The official Issue an Authorization service page on the National Portal says the service allows you electronically to add an authorized person to drive a vehicle inside or outside the Kingdom, depending on the selected type of authorization. The service belongs to the Ministry of Interior, targets individuals, both citizens and residents, and lists its channels as the website portal and the iOS and Android apps.

The authorization is therefore permission to drive, not a sale or a transfer of ownership. The vehicle owner issues the authorization, and the authorized person is added to drive within the selected type and period. Read the service name in your account carefully and do not confuse it with other vehicle services in the same menu.

 

What Are the Vehicle Authorization Conditions and Required Documents?

The Prerequisites tab of the official service page lists the following conditions, as shown at the time of writing:

• The vehicle registration license must be valid and have active insurance.
• The authorization period must not exceed the validity of the vehicle registration license.
• The authorization period must not exceed the validity of the authorized person’s driving license.
• Authorization cannot be granted to someone holding a final exit visa.
• The authorization period must not exceed the duration of the exit and re-entry visa if the authorized person holds one.

The Required Documents tab lists the following:

• The authorizer must be the vehicle owner.
• The vehicle must have valid insurance.
• Both the authorizer and the authorized person must have active Absher accounts.
• For an external authorization, the authorized person must hold an exit and re-entry visa whose duration is linked to the authorization period.

The text we reviewed adds no other conditions, so follow what the service requests for your case rather than lists circulating in forums or messages.

 

What Are the Steps to Authorize a Vehicle on Absher?

The following steps come from the official service page. Menus may look different in the portal and the app, so look for the same names:

1. Log in to Absher with the vehicle owner’s account.
2. Select "Vehicles".
3. Click on "Manage Vehicles".
4. Select the vehicle you want to authorize and check its details.
5. Choose "Authorize Vehicles".
6. Click on "Issue Authorization", enter the required information and select the type of authorization.

The page describes the service duration as immediate, but do not rely on pressing the issue button alone; review what the service displays after submission to confirm the transaction is complete. If a message prevents issuing the authorization, return to the conditions above and start with the item the message refers to, such as insurance validity or the validity of one of the licenses, instead of retrying without changing anything.

 

Driving Authorization Inside and Outside the Kingdom: What Differs?

The page states that the authorization applies inside or outside the Kingdom depending on the type of authorization you select in the final step. Decide the purpose before you start: will the authorized person drive only inside the Kingdom, or do they need to drive the vehicle abroad?

For an external authorization, the Required Documents tab requires the authorized person to hold an exit and re-entry visa. The page links the visa duration to the authorization period, but the Prerequisites wording (the authorization period must not exceed the visa duration) runs in the opposite direction to the Required Documents wording (the visa must not exceed the authorization period), so follow what the service accepts for your case. A holder of a final exit visa cannot be added as an authorized person.

The service page does not address the requirements of other countries or border crossings when travelling by car, so ask the competent authorities about this before relying on the authorization alone.

 

How Long Does the Authorization Last and How Is It Cancelled?

The service page does not set a fixed authorization period; it sets upper limits instead. The period must not exceed the validity of the vehicle registration, the validity of the authorized person’s driving license, or the duration of their exit and re-entry visa if they hold one. In practice, whichever of these dates expires first limits the period you can choose.

As for cancellation, the pages we reviewed do not explain the steps. Start from the Authorize Vehicles screen in the owner’s account and review the options shown to you. If nothing fits your case, ask the official Ministry of Interior support channels, and do not rely on an unofficial explanation that mentions a specific button or period.

If the vehicle registration is about to expire, review the vehicle registration renewal steps on Absher before choosing the authorization period, because the period may not exceed the registration validity.

 

How Does Authorization Differ From Ownership Transfer?

Some people confuse allowing someone to drive the car with selling it to them. As the service describes it, authorization adds an authorized driver and is issued by the vehicle owner, while ownership transfer is a separate procedure that changes the owner. The table summarises the difference:

Item	Driving Authorization	Ownership Transfer
Purpose	Add an authorized person to drive the vehicle	Transfer vehicle ownership to another owner
Who starts it	The vehicle owner, according to the service page	According to the sale service conditions
Does the owner change?	The service describes no change of ownership	Yes, that is the purpose of the procedure
Period limits	Not beyond the registration and the authorized person’s driving license validity	Follows the transfer service conditions

If your aim is to sell or buy the car, authorization is not a substitute for a sale; review the Absher ownership transfer steps and sale conditions to complete the correct procedure.

 

What Should the Owner Check Before Issuing the Authorization?

The official conditions determine whether the authorization can be issued, but they do not answer every practical question. Before issuing it, review the following points:

• Registration: confirm it is valid and note its expiry date, because that date limits the authorization period.
• Insurance: confirm the policy is valid for the same vehicle, then read its terms or ask the insurer about someone other than the owner driving, and do not assume any particular cover simply because the authorization was issued. To distinguish policy types, read about comprehensive versus third-party car insurance.
• Authorized person: confirm their driving license is valid, that they have an Absher account and, for a resident, their visa status.
• Purpose and period: choose the authorization type and period according to your actual need, not longer.

If an accident happens while the authorized person is driving, learn the steps to take after a car accident and Najm reporting. The service page does not address how responsibility for accidents or violations is shared between the owner and the authorized person, so do not build assumptions on it; ask the competent authority or your insurer about your case.

 

Frequently Asked Questions About Vehicle Driving Authorization

Must the person issuing the authorization be the car owner?

Yes. The Required Documents tab states that the authorizer must be the vehicle owner. The authorization is therefore not issued from the account of someone who does not own the vehicle, even if they usually drive it.

Does the authorized person need an Absher account?

Yes. The page requires both the authorizer and the authorized person to have Absher accounts. Confirm this before starting so the process does not stop when you enter the details.

Can someone holding a final exit visa be authorized?

No. The prerequisites state that authorization cannot be granted to someone holding a final exit visa. For a holder of an exit and re-entry visa, the authorization period is tied to the visa duration.

Can I authorize if the registration or insurance has expired?

The published condition is a valid vehicle registration with active insurance. If either has expired, resolve it first and then return to the authorization service.

Does authorization mean the insurance covers the authorized person?

The service page mentions insurance only as a condition for issuing the authorization. Review your policy and its terms with your insurer before allowing another person to drive.

 

Conclusion

Vehicle driving authorization on Absher starts from the owner’s account and requires a valid registration, active insurance and Absher accounts for both parties, with its period limited by the validity of the licenses and visa. Choose the right authorization type, review your insurance policy and do not use authorization as a substitute for ownership transfer.

Vehicle ownership transfer in Saudi Arabia is done electronically through the vehicle sale service on the Absher platform, without visiting traffic offices: the seller enters the buyer's ID number and date of birth, the agreed sale price and the seller's bank account; the buyer then receives a notification of the request within one hour and accepts or declines it, transfers the price through Absher's secure payment system, insures the vehicle and pays the fees, and once the car is received, checked and the delivery is confirmed on Absher, ownership is officially transferred. Both parties must be registered on Absher, the vehicle registration (istimara), periodic inspection and insurance must be valid, and there must be no violations on the buyer or the vehicle.

What is the vehicle ownership transfer service on Absher?

The Ministry of Interior offers the vehicle sale service through the Absher platform, and the National Platform describes it as a service that enables individuals to sell their private vehicles and transfer ownership electronically after its dues are cleared, after reaching an agreement with the buyer and completing all required procedures, including vehicle inspection to ensure compliance with conditions, registering the vehicle under the buyer's identity, and issuing the vehicle registration license.

• Target audience: individuals, both citizens and residents.
• Service channels: the Absher website and its mobile app.
• Service duration according to the National Platform: immediate.
• Payment method: the car's price is transferred through Absher's secure payment system, and the service page on Absher explains that payment goes to an intermediary account dedicated to the service, which ensures the amounts are documented and the vehicle is received.

Procedures and conditions may be updated from time to time, so confirm the latest steps on the Absher platform or the National Platform before you start.

 

What are the conditions for selling a vehicle on Absher?

Before the seller starts the request, both parties should review the conditions listed on the service page on Absher, as failing to meet any of them may stop the sale:

• Both the seller and the buyer must be registered on the Absher platform.
• The vehicle must be in sound condition and not suspended, lost, wanted or impounded.
• The vehicle registration license (istimara) must be valid.
• The vehicle must have a valid periodic inspection.
• The vehicle must have valid insurance.
• There must be no violations on the buyer or on the vehicle.
• The agreed price must fall within the limits set by the service, and the vehicle must be of a type the service allows to be sold.
• Government fees are paid through the government payment system (SADAD).

The page also mentions limits on the number of vehicles of certain types that a resident may own, so review them on Absher if the buyer is a resident. If the periodic inspection is close to expiring, prepare the car early using the checklist on how to prepare your car for the periodic inspection.

 

What are the seller's steps to transfer car ownership on Absher?

After agreeing with the buyer on the price and other terms, the seller starts the request with these steps, as set out by the National Platform:

1. Log in to the Absher platform.
2. Go to vehicle services, then choose the vehicle sale service.
3. Select the vehicle you want to transfer from the list displayed.
4. Enter the buyer's information: ID number and date of birth.
5. Enter the agreed-upon sale price.
6. Add the seller's bank account details where the proceeds of the sale will be deposited.
7. Carefully review the entered information, then confirm the request.
8. Wait for the buyer's response: the buyer receives a notification of the transfer request within one hour and can accept or decline it.
9. Once the buyer accepts the sale, both parties complete the delivery of the vehicle and the payment through Absher's secure payment system before the transfer is confirmed.

 

What does the buyer do to complete the sale?

Ownership does not pass to the buyer until they complete their steps on the platform, which according to the National Platform are:

1. Review the Absher notification about the vehicle transfer request, and accept it within one hour if you agree.
2. Carefully review the vehicle information and sale price before confirming your acceptance.
3. Transfer the agreed amount to the seller's account through Absher's secure payment system.
4. Insure the vehicle before the ownership transfer is completed.
5. Pay the government fees and the Absher fees.
6. Receive the vehicle and check it, then confirm delivery through Absher.
7. Upon confirmation, the vehicle ownership is officially transferred from the seller to the buyer.

 

How do the seller's and buyer's tasks differ?

The table below summarises the role of each party at every stage of the sale:

Stage	Seller	Buyer
Before starting	Agree on the price and terms, and check the istimara, periodic inspection and insurance are valid	Register on Absher and make sure there are no violations on them
Creating the request	Enter the buyer's ID, date of birth, price and bank account, then confirm	Wait for the Absher notification
Responding	Wait for acceptance or refusal	Review the details and accept or decline the request within one hour
Payment	Receive the price in the bank account entered in the request	Transfer the price through Absher's secure payment system
Insurance and fees	The platform lists no step for the seller at this stage	Insure the vehicle and pay the government fees and Absher fees
Delivery	Hand the vehicle over to the buyer after they accept the sale	Receive and check the vehicle, then confirm delivery on Absher

 

How do you transfer car ownership between family members?

If you are handing your car over to a family member, Absher has a separate service called vehicle ownership transfer between family members, which allows vehicle ownership to be waived between family members electronically once the current owner and the new owner agree. The National Platform lists its steps as follows:

1. Log in to the Absher platform, then select the required vehicle and the service dedicated to this.
2. Select a first-degree family member: father, mother, brother, sister, husband, wife, son or daughter.
3. Enter the confirmation code sent to the new owner's phone.
4. Pay the service fees.
5. The vehicle ownership is transferred to the new owner in the traffic systems after all requirements are met.

 

What practical checks protect the seller and buyer before the sale?

The platform organises the procedure, but it does not replace inspecting the car yourself; the service page on Absher states that the sale takes place after the vehicle has been viewed and inspected and the seller and buyer have agreed. Here are practical tips before accepting the request:

• Match the chassis number (VIN) on the car with the istimara and the vehicle details shown in the request; the article on what the VIN characters mean explains where to find it.
• Inspect the car in daylight and try the engine, transmission, air conditioning and tyres, or ask for a pre-purchase inspection at an independent inspection centre; you will find a wider list in vehicle inspection tips before buying a used car.
• Look for signs of accidents and differences in paint shade between panels, and read what it means when a car has been repaired before you decide.
• Check for violations through official channels such as Absher before starting the request, because the service requires no violations on the buyer or the vehicle.
• Agree in advance on what the sale includes, such as the spare key, accessories and the service record if there is one.
• Keep a private record of the agreement for yourself: the agreed price, the request date and screenshots of the request, and do not share these details publicly.

 

What are the common mistakes in car ownership transfer?

• Starting the request before clearly agreeing on the price and other terms.
• Entering the buyer's ID number, date of birth or the sale price without careful review before confirming.
• Creating the request at a time when the buyer is not available, although the steps ask the buyer to review and accept it within one hour.
• Overlooking the expiry date of the istimara, periodic inspection or insurance until the request stalls after the deal is agreed.
• Transferring the price outside Absher's secure payment system, although the service steps state that payment is made through it.
• Confirming delivery on Absher before actually receiving and checking the car.

 

Frequently asked questions about car ownership transfer

1. Do I need to visit the traffic department to transfer car ownership? According to the National Platform, the vehicle sale service is completed electronically through Absher without the need to visit General Traffic Department offices.
2. How long does the ownership transfer take? The National Platform describes the service duration as immediate; the buyer receives the request notification within one hour, and the sale is complete once both parties finish their steps and the buyer confirms delivery.
3. Who pays the ownership transfer fees? The National Platform lists paying the government fees and Absher fees among the buyer's steps; check their current amount on the platform before you start.
4. Can the sale be cancelled after the request is created? The buyer can decline the request when the notification arrives, and the service page on Absher states that in case of disagreement or unwillingness to continue, the sale can be cancelled before it is completed, according to the stage set by the platform.
5. Does the buyer need insurance for the car? Yes. One of the buyer's steps is to insure the vehicle before the ownership transfer is completed.

 

Transferring car ownership through Absher is a clear process if you prepare for it: check the conditions, agree on the price, inspect the car before accepting, pay through the platform's secure payment system, and do not confirm delivery before checking the car. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.

If you are asking when to replace car tyres, the short answer is: replace a tyre when the surface of the tread reaches the level of the raised wear indicators inside the grooves, when a bulge, a deep cut or clear cracks appear in its sidewall, or when the rubber has aged to the point at which the tyre or car manufacturer recommends replacement, even if the tread looks good. In this guide we explain how to check your tyres, what the wear pattern reveals, and how to choose the right replacement.

When should you replace car tyres? The key signs in brief

Replacement is not tied to a single distance for every car, but to the tyre's condition and its maker's recommendations. The main signs are:

• The tread surface has reached the level of the wear indicators in any part of the tyre, not just on average.
• A bulge or bubble in the sidewall, a deep cut, or exposed cords or internal fabric.
• Clear cracks in the sidewall or between the tread blocks, showing that the rubber has aged and hardened.
• Uneven wear that has left part of the tyre smooth even though the rest of its surface is sound.
• A persistent vibration that does not go away after balancing, or repeated pressure loss in the same tyre with no visible cause.

 

How do you check tread depth using the TWI wear indicators?

Inside the grooves are small raised bars called wear indicators, whose location is marked by the letters TWI or a small triangle on the tyre's shoulder, and when the tread surface is level with them, the tyre has reached the end of its usable life. To check:

1. Park the car on level ground and turn the steering wheel to one side so you can see the front tyres clearly.
2. Look for the TWI mark or triangle on the tyre's shoulder, then look into the groove next to it to find the raised bar.
3. Compare the level of the tread surface with the bar; the closer they are to level, the closer the replacement date.
4. Repeat the check on the inner edge, the centre and the outer edge, and at several points around the tyre's circumference.
5. For a more precise reading, use a tread depth gauge, available at tyre shops, and record the reading for each tyre.
6. Some drivers use a coin as a rough gauge, but it is no substitute for a proper gauge or a look by a qualified technician.

Do not wait until they are exactly level if you travel often or drive in the rain, as water clearance and grip weaken gradually as the tread gets shallower.

 

What do tyre cracks and sidewall bulges mean?

The sidewall flexes with every turn of the wheel and carries the car's weight, so any damage to it is more dangerous than tread wear:

• Fine surface cracks: an early sign of rubber ageing caused by heat and sun, which calls for the tyre to be inspected by a specialist and monitored.
• Deep cracks: if they widen or reach the tyre's inner layers, it is time to replace it.
• A bulge or bubble: damage to the tyre's internal structure, usually after hitting a pothole or kerb, which requires immediate replacement and no travelling on it.
• Cuts and gashes: a deep cut in the sidewall weakens the tyre even if no air is leaking from it yet.

 

What does the tyre wear pattern reveal?

The wear pattern reveals the cause of the problem, and if you do not fix it, new tyres will wear the same way:

Wear pattern	Likely cause	What to do
Both edges more than the centre	Pressure lower than recommended	Set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker and check it regularly
Centre more than the edges	Pressure higher than recommended	Set the recommended pressure, not the maximum pressure printed on the tyre
One inner or outer edge	Wheel alignment or suspension fault	Check the alignment and suspension parts
Diagonal, feather-like wear	Incorrect toe between the two wheels	Have the alignment set at an equipped workshop
Repeated patches or scallops	Unbalanced wheels or worn shock absorbers	Balance the wheels and check the shock absorbers
A single flat spot	Hard braking with a locked wheel, or standing a long time without moving	Have a specialist assess the tyre

If you see wear on both edges, start by reviewing the causes, signs and solutions for low tyre pressure, and if the wear is on one edge or comes with the car pulling to one side, read about the difference between wheel balancing and alignment.

 

How do Saudi heat and sand affect tyre life?

Rubber ages over time even if the car is used little, and you will find how to tell a tyre's age from the DOT code in our article on how to read tyre size and manufacture date. There is no single lifespan for all tyres, so refer to the tyre and car makers' recommendations. In the Kingdom's climate, some factors speed up deterioration:

• Direct sun and high heat speed up the hardening and cracking of rubber, especially for cars standing for long periods in open car parks, so park in the shade whenever possible.
• Hot asphalt raises tyre temperature, and the effect grows with low pressure or overloading on long trips.
• Sandy, gravel and desert tracks expose the tread and sidewall to cuts from sharp stones, so inspect the tyres after every desert trip.
• If you lower tyre pressure (deflating) to drive on sand, restore it to the recommended value before returning to asphalt, because highway driving at low pressure raises tyre temperature.

 

Should you replace tyres in pairs or all four together?

Ideally all four tyres match, but replacing them all together is not always necessary:

• Replace both tyres on the same axle together at least, so grip does not differ between the two sides when braking or cornering.
• When replacing only one pair, many tyre makers recommend fitting the newer pair on the rear axle for better stability, unless the owner's manual says otherwise.
• In four-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive cars, the owner's manual may require the four tyres to be close in size and degree of wear to protect the drive system, so check it before replacing only two.

 

What about the spare tyre?

The spare forgotten in the boot ages just like the other tyres, even if it is never used:

• Check its pressure regularly and before every trip, because a flat spare will not help you when you get a puncture.
• Read its manufacture date and inspect its sidewall, as it may be older than the tyres on the car.
• A small temporary spare is designed for a limited distance and speed stated in the owner's manual or on the tyre's side, so use it only to reach the nearest tyre shop.
• If your car comes with a repair kit instead of a spare, check its expiry and how to use it.

 

How do you choose the right replacement tyre: size, load and speed?

Choose what your car was designed for, not just what the shop has in stock, and check the following:

1. Size: copy it from the sticker on the driver's door frame or from the owner's manual, not from the tyre currently fitted, which may be different.
2. Load index and speed symbol: choose values equal to or higher than the car manufacturer's recommendation, never lower.
3. Manufacture date: ask for recently made tyres with close dates, especially on the same axle.
4. Type of use: a driver who often travels on highways has different needs from one who drives in the desert or carries heavy loads, so ask about the tyre designed for your use.
5. Changing the size: do not change the size of your tyres or rims without consulting a specialist; to learn the effect, read our article on whether the wrong rims make your car use more fuel.
6. After fitting: balance the wheels, set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker, and check the alignment if the old tyres were worn unevenly.

 

What is the tyre energy efficiency label in Saudi Arabia?

The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization offers the Energy Efficiency Label for Tires service, and explains that the label serves as a guide for consumers before purchasing the product to increase their awareness of its energy efficiency before buying it.

The organization lists tyres among the products subject to the efficiency label regulations, and the aims of these labels include reducing energy consumption for the consumer, enabling the consumer to know a product's efficiency before buying, and protecting consumer safety and health and the environment. In practice:

• When comparing tyres of the same size, ask to see the energy efficiency label for each one and read its details.
• Do not make the label your only criterion; size, load index, speed symbol, manufacture date and the tyre's suitability for your use come first.
• Requirements and procedures may be updated from time to time, so check the latest information on the organization's website.

 

Frequently asked questions about replacing car tyres

1. Should I replace a tyre that is old even if its tread is good? Tread depth alone is not enough, as rubber hardens over time; have it checked by a specialist and follow the tyre maker's recommendation.
2. Can a puncture in the side of the tyre be repaired? Repairing holes in the sidewall or shoulder is not usually recommended, while for a hole in the tread area the technician decides whether it can be repaired based on its size and position.
3. Can I fit two tyres of different types? This is not recommended on the same axle, and it is best for all four tyres to match in type and tread pattern, especially in four-wheel-drive cars.
4. Are small cracks between the tread blocks dangerous? They are a sign of ageing that may not require immediate replacement, but have a specialist monitor them, and if they deepen, replace the tyre.
5. How often should I check my tyres? Check their pressure and appearance regularly, for example when refuelling, before every trip, and after hitting a pothole or kerb or after a desert trip.

 

Checking your tyres takes only minutes: look at the wear indicators, inspect the sidewall, notice the wear pattern and read the manufacture date. If a danger sign appears, do not postpone the change; choose a replacement with the recommended size, load and speed ratings, then fix the cause of any uneven wear.