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Choosing a car battery starts with confirming that the battery really is the cause of the problem, then matching what the owner’s manual or the current battery label specifies: size and mounting, terminal orientation, capacity in Ah, cold cranking amps (CCA) and battery technology. After that, check the manufacture date and warranty terms, and make sure installation is done properly, which may include registering the battery in the car’s system. This guide explains each step in general terms; your owner’s manual and a qualified technician remain the reference for your car’s specifications.

When Should You Start Choosing a Car Battery?

Do not buy a battery just because the car failed to start once. Weak starting can be linked to the battery, but also to the starter motor, the connections or the charging system. Ask a specialist to test the battery and charging system with suitable equipment, and review the car battery failure symptoms and how to test them to recognise signs worth checking.

If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the battery may not be the cause; see the guide on an engine that cranks but will not start. If the battery keeps going flat, there may be a hidden electrical drain in the car, and fitting a new battery without fixing the cause may simply pass the problem on to it. Once testing confirms the battery, prepare the following before visiting the seller:

• A clear photo of the current battery label showing all printed details.
• The battery specification page in the owner’s manual, if available.
• Whether the car has an automatic engine stop-start system.
• Where the battery sits: engine bay, boot or under a seat.

 

Which Specifications Should Match the Manual or Label?

The first reference is the owner’s manual, then the label of the original battery if it is still fitted. The table below summarises what to compare before paying and where to find it.

Item	Where to find it	Why it matters
Size or group	Owner’s manual or current battery label	Defines overall dimensions and fit on the tray
Mounting dimensions	Battery tray and hold-down clamp	A poorly secured battery vibrates and can be damaged
Terminal orientation	Position of the positive and negative terminals on the current battery	A different layout may stop cables reaching or strain them
Capacity (Ah)	Label or owner’s manual	Indicates the energy stored in the battery
Cold cranking amps (CCA)	Label	Indicates the battery’s ability to deliver starting current
Technology type	Label and owner’s manual	Must suit the charging system and any stop-start system

Two batteries can look alike yet differ in terminal orientation, height or mounting lip. Ask the seller to compare the new battery directly with the old one. If the current label differs from the manual, the previous battery may not have matched in the first place; rely on the manual or ask the dealer or a qualified technician.

 

What Do Capacity (Ah) and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) Mean?

Capacity in Ah describes how much energy the battery stores, which matters when the battery powers the car’s systems with the engine off. Cold cranking amps (CCA) describe the battery’s ability to deliver a high current at the moment of starting in cold conditions, according to a specific test standard.

A label may state CCA according to a different standard from another battery, so only compare two figures measured to the same standard, and ask the seller to clarify. The general rule is not to go below the car’s specified capacity or current.

On the other hand, a higher figure is not automatically better; what matters is that the battery keeps the correct size and technology. In cars that record battery data in their system, the actual capacity of the new battery may need to be entered during registration, so tell the technician about any difference from the original.

 

What Is the Difference Between Flooded, EFB and AGM Batteries?

The general idea of each type is as follows, while the manual decides what your car needs:

• Conventional flooded battery: common in cars without an automatic stop-start system; some serviceable types need the electrolyte level checked.
• EFB battery: an enhanced flooded battery built to withstand repeated starting and discharge cycles better than a conventional one, used in many cars with stop-start systems.
• AGM battery: the electrolyte is absorbed in glass fibre mats and the battery is sealed; it copes better with electrical loads and repeated discharge, and is used in cars with higher electrical demands.

In a car with automatic stop-start, the battery handles frequent engine restarts and powers systems while the engine is stopped. Fitting a lower technology than specified, such as a conventional flooded battery instead of EFB or EFB instead of AGM, may weaken system performance, shorten battery life and trigger warning messages. Moving to a higher technology should only happen if the owner’s manual or the dealer allows it.

If the battery sits inside the cabin or boot, the manufacturer may specify a sealed type or a particular vent outlet; do not fit a different battery in that location without confirming that it matches.

 

How Do You Read the Manufacture Date and Warranty Terms?

The manufacture date usually appears as a code printed on the lid or case or on a small sticker, and the code format differs between manufacturers, so ask the seller to explain the code on the battery itself, and prefer the most recently made battery among the matching options.

A battery stored for a long time may lose some charge, so ask whether the seller tested it before sale. For the warranty, read the written terms on the invoice or warranty card rather than relying on a verbal promise, and pay attention to the following:

• What the warranty covers, how a fault is proven, and whether the battery must be tested by the seller.
• Whether installation elsewhere, or fitting the battery to a car it does not match, affects the warranty.
• Which documents are needed for a claim; keep the invoice somewhere easy to find.

 

How Does Saudi Heat Affect Your Battery Choice?

High temperatures speed up the reactions inside a battery and may increase fluid loss and ageing of the internal plates. This does not mean choosing a battery simply because it is marketed for heat; it means sticking to the correct specification and technology and choosing a recently made battery.

After installation, help the battery by parking in the shade where possible, keeping the terminals clean and checking the battery and charging system during routine maintenance. For more on how heat affects the car in general, read the summer car care guide for Saudi heat.

 

What Should You Consider When Installing the New Battery?

If you are not confident about the steps, leave the installation to a qualified technician. If you fit it yourself, wear eye protection and gloves, switch the engine off and keep the key away, disconnect and reconnect the terminals in the order given in the owner’s manual, avoid letting a metal tool touch both terminals, and keep any sparks or flames away from the battery.

• Battery registration: some cars require the new battery to be registered in the energy management system with a diagnostic tool so that charging is adjusted for a new battery. Ask the technician whether your car needs this.
• Saving settings: disconnecting the battery may erase settings such as the clock and radio, and some systems may need resetting according to the manual. Some technicians use a memory saver during the swap.
• Clean terminals: remove corrosion from the terminals and cable ends, and check that the clamps are sound before connecting.
• Secure mounting: fix the battery with its hold-down clamp so it cannot move, tighten the terminals without excessive force, and refit the protective covers.

After installation, start the car and watch for any warning message. If one appears, return to the technician to check the installation and registration rather than trying to clear the warning yourself.

 

How Do You Dispose of the Old Battery Safely?

A battery contains acid and lead, so do not open it, drain it or put it in household waste. Keep it upright, protect its terminals from contact, and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling. If it is cracked or leaking, do not touch it with bare hands and ask the workshop to handle it.

 

Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing a Car Battery

How can I tell a battery fault from a starter fault?

Slow cranking with dim lights may point to the battery, while a click with bright lights may point to the starter motor. These are indications, not a diagnosis, so have the battery and charging system tested and review the signs of a failing starter motor before buying.

Can I fit a battery with a higher capacity than the original?

It may be possible in some cases if the size and technology still match, but the decision rests with the owner’s manual and the technician, especially in cars that record battery data in their system.

Can I fit a conventional battery to a car with stop-start?

This is not recommended; use the technology specified in the manual, such as EFB or AGM, because a lower technology may not withstand the frequent restart pattern.

Do all cars need the new battery to be registered?

No, but some cars require it using a diagnostic tool. Ask the technician or check the manual before installation, and do not assume the swap is complete once the terminals are connected.

What should I do with the old battery after replacing it?

Do not open it or throw it away with household waste. Keep it upright and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling.

 

Conclusion

First confirm that the battery is the problem, then match size, terminals, capacity, CCA and technology to the owner’s manual, and check the manufacture date and warranty terms. Leave installation and registration to a technician if you are unsure, and dispose of the old battery safely.

If you are asking when to replace car tyres, the short answer is: replace a tyre when the surface of the tread reaches the level of the raised wear indicators inside the grooves, when a bulge, a deep cut or clear cracks appear in its sidewall, or when the rubber has aged to the point at which the tyre or car manufacturer recommends replacement, even if the tread looks good. In this guide we explain how to check your tyres, what the wear pattern reveals, and how to choose the right replacement.

When should you replace car tyres? The key signs in brief

Replacement is not tied to a single distance for every car, but to the tyre's condition and its maker's recommendations. The main signs are:

• The tread surface has reached the level of the wear indicators in any part of the tyre, not just on average.
• A bulge or bubble in the sidewall, a deep cut, or exposed cords or internal fabric.
• Clear cracks in the sidewall or between the tread blocks, showing that the rubber has aged and hardened.
• Uneven wear that has left part of the tyre smooth even though the rest of its surface is sound.
• A persistent vibration that does not go away after balancing, or repeated pressure loss in the same tyre with no visible cause.

 

How do you check tread depth using the TWI wear indicators?

Inside the grooves are small raised bars called wear indicators, whose location is marked by the letters TWI or a small triangle on the tyre's shoulder, and when the tread surface is level with them, the tyre has reached the end of its usable life. To check:

1. Park the car on level ground and turn the steering wheel to one side so you can see the front tyres clearly.
2. Look for the TWI mark or triangle on the tyre's shoulder, then look into the groove next to it to find the raised bar.
3. Compare the level of the tread surface with the bar; the closer they are to level, the closer the replacement date.
4. Repeat the check on the inner edge, the centre and the outer edge, and at several points around the tyre's circumference.
5. For a more precise reading, use a tread depth gauge, available at tyre shops, and record the reading for each tyre.
6. Some drivers use a coin as a rough gauge, but it is no substitute for a proper gauge or a look by a qualified technician.

Do not wait until they are exactly level if you travel often or drive in the rain, as water clearance and grip weaken gradually as the tread gets shallower.

 

What do tyre cracks and sidewall bulges mean?

The sidewall flexes with every turn of the wheel and carries the car's weight, so any damage to it is more dangerous than tread wear:

• Fine surface cracks: an early sign of rubber ageing caused by heat and sun, which calls for the tyre to be inspected by a specialist and monitored.
• Deep cracks: if they widen or reach the tyre's inner layers, it is time to replace it.
• A bulge or bubble: damage to the tyre's internal structure, usually after hitting a pothole or kerb, which requires immediate replacement and no travelling on it.
• Cuts and gashes: a deep cut in the sidewall weakens the tyre even if no air is leaking from it yet.

 

What does the tyre wear pattern reveal?

The wear pattern reveals the cause of the problem, and if you do not fix it, new tyres will wear the same way:

Wear pattern	Likely cause	What to do
Both edges more than the centre	Pressure lower than recommended	Set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker and check it regularly
Centre more than the edges	Pressure higher than recommended	Set the recommended pressure, not the maximum pressure printed on the tyre
One inner or outer edge	Wheel alignment or suspension fault	Check the alignment and suspension parts
Diagonal, feather-like wear	Incorrect toe between the two wheels	Have the alignment set at an equipped workshop
Repeated patches or scallops	Unbalanced wheels or worn shock absorbers	Balance the wheels and check the shock absorbers
A single flat spot	Hard braking with a locked wheel, or standing a long time without moving	Have a specialist assess the tyre

If you see wear on both edges, start by reviewing the causes, signs and solutions for low tyre pressure, and if the wear is on one edge or comes with the car pulling to one side, read about the difference between wheel balancing and alignment.

 

How do Saudi heat and sand affect tyre life?

Rubber ages over time even if the car is used little, and you will find how to tell a tyre's age from the DOT code in our article on how to read tyre size and manufacture date. There is no single lifespan for all tyres, so refer to the tyre and car makers' recommendations. In the Kingdom's climate, some factors speed up deterioration:

• Direct sun and high heat speed up the hardening and cracking of rubber, especially for cars standing for long periods in open car parks, so park in the shade whenever possible.
• Hot asphalt raises tyre temperature, and the effect grows with low pressure or overloading on long trips.
• Sandy, gravel and desert tracks expose the tread and sidewall to cuts from sharp stones, so inspect the tyres after every desert trip.
• If you lower tyre pressure (deflating) to drive on sand, restore it to the recommended value before returning to asphalt, because highway driving at low pressure raises tyre temperature.

 

Should you replace tyres in pairs or all four together?

Ideally all four tyres match, but replacing them all together is not always necessary:

• Replace both tyres on the same axle together at least, so grip does not differ between the two sides when braking or cornering.
• When replacing only one pair, many tyre makers recommend fitting the newer pair on the rear axle for better stability, unless the owner's manual says otherwise.
• In four-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive cars, the owner's manual may require the four tyres to be close in size and degree of wear to protect the drive system, so check it before replacing only two.

 

What about the spare tyre?

The spare forgotten in the boot ages just like the other tyres, even if it is never used:

• Check its pressure regularly and before every trip, because a flat spare will not help you when you get a puncture.
• Read its manufacture date and inspect its sidewall, as it may be older than the tyres on the car.
• A small temporary spare is designed for a limited distance and speed stated in the owner's manual or on the tyre's side, so use it only to reach the nearest tyre shop.
• If your car comes with a repair kit instead of a spare, check its expiry and how to use it.

 

How do you choose the right replacement tyre: size, load and speed?

Choose what your car was designed for, not just what the shop has in stock, and check the following:

1. Size: copy it from the sticker on the driver's door frame or from the owner's manual, not from the tyre currently fitted, which may be different.
2. Load index and speed symbol: choose values equal to or higher than the car manufacturer's recommendation, never lower.
3. Manufacture date: ask for recently made tyres with close dates, especially on the same axle.
4. Type of use: a driver who often travels on highways has different needs from one who drives in the desert or carries heavy loads, so ask about the tyre designed for your use.
5. Changing the size: do not change the size of your tyres or rims without consulting a specialist; to learn the effect, read our article on whether the wrong rims make your car use more fuel.
6. After fitting: balance the wheels, set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker, and check the alignment if the old tyres were worn unevenly.

 

What is the tyre energy efficiency label in Saudi Arabia?

The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization offers the Energy Efficiency Label for Tires service, and explains that the label serves as a guide for consumers before purchasing the product to increase their awareness of its energy efficiency before buying it.

The organization lists tyres among the products subject to the efficiency label regulations, and the aims of these labels include reducing energy consumption for the consumer, enabling the consumer to know a product's efficiency before buying, and protecting consumer safety and health and the environment. In practice:

• When comparing tyres of the same size, ask to see the energy efficiency label for each one and read its details.
• Do not make the label your only criterion; size, load index, speed symbol, manufacture date and the tyre's suitability for your use come first.
• Requirements and procedures may be updated from time to time, so check the latest information on the organization's website.

 

Frequently asked questions about replacing car tyres

1. Should I replace a tyre that is old even if its tread is good? Tread depth alone is not enough, as rubber hardens over time; have it checked by a specialist and follow the tyre maker's recommendation.
2. Can a puncture in the side of the tyre be repaired? Repairing holes in the sidewall or shoulder is not usually recommended, while for a hole in the tread area the technician decides whether it can be repaired based on its size and position.
3. Can I fit two tyres of different types? This is not recommended on the same axle, and it is best for all four tyres to match in type and tread pattern, especially in four-wheel-drive cars.
4. Are small cracks between the tread blocks dangerous? They are a sign of ageing that may not require immediate replacement, but have a specialist monitor them, and if they deepen, replace the tyre.
5. How often should I check my tyres? Check their pressure and appearance regularly, for example when refuelling, before every trip, and after hitting a pothole or kerb or after a desert trip.

 

Checking your tyres takes only minutes: look at the wear indicators, inspect the sidewall, notice the wear pattern and read the manufacture date. If a danger sign appears, do not postpone the change; choose a replacement with the recommended size, load and speed ratings, then fix the cause of any uneven wear.

Car brand logos are the badges and names each manufacturer places on the front grille, the boot lid and the centre of the steering wheel, and the easiest way to learn them is to group them by country of origin: Japanese badges such as Toyota's three ovals, Korean ones such as Hyundai's slanted H, and Chinese brands, many of which spell out their full name in Latin letters, alongside German, European and American badges. In this guide you will find each brand's name as it is written and said, a short description of its badge, its meaning where it is documented, and a table for quick comparison.

What are car brand logos and where do you find them on a car?

A car badge (the logo or emblem) is the trademark that identifies the manufacturer, and it usually appears in several places:

• The centre of the front grille or the bonnet, the most visible spot for the logo.
• The boot lid, where the model name and sometimes the trim are usually written next to it.
• The centre of the steering wheel, the wheel caps and the car key.

Badges fall into two types: a standalone symbol such as a star, rings or a lion, or a name spelled out in letters, as with many American and new Chinese brands, and knowing this difference helps you recognise a car from a distance.

 

What are the best-known Japanese car brand logos?

Japanese badges are very familiar on the Kingdom's roads, and most are simple symbols that are easy to remember:

• Toyota: three ovals that form the letter T; the company says the two overlapping ovals represent mutual trust between the customer and the company, and the outer oval represents the global expansion of its technology.
• Lexus: a curved letter L inside an oval; it is Toyota's luxury vehicle division.
• Nissan: the name NISSAN across a thin circle; the name began as an abbreviation of the Japanese holding company Nihon Sangyo.
• Honda: a wide, upright letter H inside a frame with rounded corners.
• Mitsubishi: three red diamonds meeting at the centre, chosen by founder Iwasaki Yataro because they recalled the emblem of the Tosa clan that employed him and his own family crest.
• Mazda: a stretched letter M shaped like wings inside a circle; according to the company's website, the name is also linked to its founder, Jujiro Matsuda.
• Suzuki: a red letter S with sharp lines.
• Isuzu: the name ISUZU in bold letters; the name comes from the Isuzu River and means fifty bells.

 

What are the Korean car brand logos?

• Hyundai: a slanted letter H inside an oval; the Korean word means modernity.
• Kia: the word KIA in a sharp, angular script; according to the company, the name means rising from Asia.
• Genesis: two spread wings with a shield in the middle; it is the luxury brand of Hyundai Motor Group.

 

Which Chinese car brand logos are common in Saudi Arabia?

Chinese cars have become familiar in the Saudi market, and their best-known badges include:

• Changan: a shape like the letter V inside a circle; the name comes from the Chongqing Changan Arsenal and literally means long-lasting peace.
• Chery: an oval with a symbol resembling the letter A in the middle.
• Geely: the name GEELY is written in Latin letters on the rear of many of its models.
• Haval: the name HAVAL in large letters; it is a brand specialising in SUVs, owned by Great Wall Motor, which is named after the Great Wall of China.
• MG: the letters MG inside an octagon; it is a British marque founded in Oxford and owned today by the Chinese company SAIC Motor.
• BYD: the letters BYD in a bold typeface; the name had no particular meaning, and the company later adopted Build Your Dreams as a slogan matching its letters.
• Hongqi: a vertical red strip running from the bonnet to the grille on many of its models; the name means red banner, and it is the oldest Chinese passenger car brand, owned by FAW Group.

 

How do you recognise the new Chinese car brands?

Many Chinese brands have appeared in recent years, some cannot be recognised from the badge alone, and here are practical ways to tell them apart:

1. Read the written name: many new brands spell out their full name on the grille or the boot instead of a standalone symbol, such as Jetour, Omoda, Jaecoo and Deepal.
2. Know the parent company: Jetour, Omoda and Jaecoo belong to Chery, Deepal to Changan, Haval to Great Wall and Lynk & Co to Geely, and brands within one group may share some models or platforms.
3. Learn what the name means: Jetour combines the words jet and tour, signifying a convenient journey according to the brand; the O in Omoda comes from oxygen and moda means modern, according to Chery; Jaecoo comes from the German word Jäger, meaning hunter, and the English word cool; and Deepal's Chinese name means deep blue.
4. Do not rely on the badge alone: some brands have changed their logo more than once, and its look may differ from one model year to another, so confirm the manufacturer and model on the car's registration card.
5. Check the VIN: its first characters identify the manufacturer, and it is recorded on the registration card and stamped on the car's body.

 

What are the German and European car brand logos?

European badges often rely on old symbols with well-known stories:

• Mercedes-Benz: a three-pointed star inside a circle, which for the original Daimler company symbolised Gottlieb Daimler's aim of motorisation on land, water and in the air.
• BMW: a circle divided into blue and white quarters inside a black ring bearing the company name; its colours recall the flag of Bavaria, while the idea that it is an aircraft propeller is a myth.
• Audi: four interlinked rings, each representing one of the four companies that joined to form Auto Union, Audi's predecessor.
• Volkswagen: the letters V and W inside a circle; the German name means people's car.
• Skoda: a winged arrow inside a circle; the arrow represents speed, the wings progress and freedom, and the eye precision; it is a Czech brand.
• Peugeot: a lion; the original logo was a lion walking on an arrow, symbolising the speed, strength and flexibility of Peugeot's saw blades; it is a French brand.
• Renault: a diamond-shaped lozenge that the French company has placed on the front of its cars since the nineteen-twenties.
• Land Rover: a green oval carrying the name of the British brand.
• Rolls-Royce: two interlocking letters R and the Spirit of Ecstasy mascot on the bonnet; the British company is a wholly owned subsidiary of the BMW group.
• Lamborghini: a raging bull, chosen by founder Ferruccio Lamborghini after he admired the fighting bulls at the Miura ranch in Spain; it is an Italian brand.

 

What are the American car brand logos?

American badges tend towards written names and simple shapes:

• Ford: a blue oval with the name Ford in white script.
• Chevrolet: the gold bowtie, whose origin is unsettled; the company's account says William Durant took it from a wallpaper pattern in a French hotel.
• GMC: the letters GMC, usually in red; it is a General Motors brand.
• Jeep: the word JEEP in plain letters, and many people know it by its grille with vertical slots.
• Dodge: the name DODGE in large letters on the grille or the rear.
• Lincoln: a four-point star inside a frame; it is a luxury brand owned by Ford and named after US President Abraham Lincoln.

 

Car brand logos table: brand, country of origin and badge description

A quick summary of each brand's badge:

Brand	Country of origin	Badge description
Toyota	Japan	Three ovals
Nissan	Japan	Name inside a thin circle
Honda	Japan	Upright letter H
Mitsubishi	Japan	Three red diamonds
Hyundai	Korea	Slanted H in an oval
Kia	Korea	The word KIA in a sharp script
Changan	China	V shape inside a circle
Chery	China	A-like symbol in an oval
Jetour	China	Name in Latin letters
Haval	China	HAVAL in large letters
MG	Britain (Chinese owner)	MG inside an octagon
BYD	China	The letters BYD
Mercedes-Benz	Germany	Three-pointed star in a circle
BMW	Germany	Circle with blue and white quarters
Audi	Germany	Four interlinked rings
Volkswagen	Germany	VW letters in a circle
Peugeot	France	Lion
Ford	USA	Blue oval
Chevrolet	USA	Gold bowtie
GMC	USA	Red GMC letters

 

Frequently asked questions about car brand logos

1. How do I tell the Hyundai logo from the Honda logo? The Hyundai logo is a slanted letter H inside an oval, while the Honda logo is a wide, upright letter H inside a frame with rounded corners.
2. Which car has a horse, bull or lion logo? The black prancing horse on a yellow background is the logo of Italy's Ferrari, the horse inside a coloured shield belongs to Germany's Porsche, the raging bull to Lamborghini and the lion to Peugeot.
3. Is a brand's country of origin the country where the car is made? Not always; the country of origin is the brand's home, and its models may be built in other countries, so check the manufacturing details in the VIN and the registration card.
4. Why do companies change their logos? Usually when they renew their identity, as Nissan, Kia and BYD have done in recent years, so you may see two logos for the same brand on cars from different years.
5. How can I confirm a car's brand if its badge has been replaced? Some owners fit modified badges or the badge of another model, so rely on the registration card and the VIN rather than the badge, especially when buying a used car.

 

Car brand logos become easier to remember when you link each badge to its country and parent company, read the name written on the boot when in doubt, and check the registration card and the VIN before any purchase decision. You can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to get to know the different brands and models.

The difference between the two types of car insurance in Saudi Arabia is that third-party insurance, which is the compulsory insurance, compensates the third party for the physical and material damage your vehicle causes and does not cover your own car, while comprehensive insurance compensates you for damage or loss to your car, including fire, theft, floods and hail, and also includes liability towards third parties. Here we explain what each type covers and excludes as stated in the official documents, what the deductible means, and how to choose the right policy.

What is the difference between comprehensive and third-party insurance in brief?

These are the main differences as stated in the Saudi Central Bank documents; the details follow in the next sections:

Item	Third-party	Comprehensive
Status	Compulsory	Not compulsory; includes third-party liability cover
Physical and material damage to third parties	Covered within the policy limits	Covered as per the unified policy
Damage to your car in an accident you cause	Excluded	Covered after deducting the deductible
Fire, theft, floods and hail	Not covered for your car	Included
Towing your damaged car and storing it	Not provided for	Included up to the amount stated in the schedule
Death or injury of the driver	Excluded	An optional cover offered before the policy is issued

 

What does third-party (compulsory) insurance cover?

The Unified Compulsory Motor Insurance Policy sets the minimum limit of civil liability cover towards third parties. If an accident occurs within the borders of the Kingdom and causes damage that is not excluded, the insurer compensates the third party for what the insured, the driver or the person responsible for the accident is liable to pay for:

• Physical damage to the third party inside or outside the vehicle: death or physical injuries, including total or partial disability, whether permanent or temporary.
• Material damage to property belonging to the third party.
• Expenses borne by the third party due to damage not excluded in the policy.

A third party is anyone who suffers damage that is not excluded, other than the insured or the driver responsible for the accident; so this insurance protects others from your mistakes and does not repair your car. Subject to the exceptions, the insurer may not refuse to compensate the injured party because of a violation committed by the driver, but it keeps the right to recover from them in cases set out in the policy, such as driving against traffic, running a red light, and driving without a licence suitable for the type of vehicle.

 

What does third-party insurance not cover?

Cases the unified policy excludes from compensation include:

• Loss of or damage to the insured vehicle, property of the insured or the driver, and goods carried in it.
• Death or physical injury of the insured or the driver.
• Using the vehicle in races or to test its speed or power, and car drifting.
• A deliberate accident, or giving inaccurate information or concealing material facts in the insurance proposal form.
• Fines and financial penalties, and the driver fleeing the accident scene without an acceptable reason.
• Driving under the influence of drugs or alcohol, and natural disasters such as hurricanes, earthquakes and floods.

 

What does comprehensive motor insurance cover?

According to the Comprehensive Motor Insurance Rules, the company compensates the insured for any risk causing damage or loss to the vehicle, including fire, theft, lightning and natural disasters such as floods and hail, in addition to third-party civil liability as per the unified policy. Compensation works as follows:

• Partial loss: the company bears the cost of repair at the repairing party stated in the schedule (the agency or an approved repair shop), and the cost is determined by the competent entity in charge of motor accident damage appraisal.
• Technical total loss (a car that cannot be repaired to a state legally fit for driving) or economic total loss (repair is costly according to the percentage agreed in the schedule): compensation is the sum insured without deducting the company's expenses.
• The company does not deduct any amount from the compensation for the use or wear of the vehicle before the accident.
• Towing the damaged vehicle and storing it after a covered accident, up to the amount stated in the schedule.
• If another party caused the damage, your insurer compensates you first and then claims against that party or its insurer.

Before issuing the policy, the company must offer you optional covers: renting a replacement vehicle, roadside assistance, death, injuries and medical expenses of the driver or named driver, and accidents outside the Kingdom; any you decline become excluded.

 

What does comprehensive insurance not cover?

The main exclusions in the rules include:

• Driving without a licence suitable for the type of vehicle, or with a licence that was withdrawn or has expired unless it is renewed within the set period.
• Compensation that is less than or equal to the deductible stated in the schedule.
• An accident while the vehicle is driven by someone other than the driver or the named driver.
• Manufacturing defects, and damage resulting from use or from mechanical or electrical malfunctions.
• Damage to or theft of tyres, rims, wheel covers or exterior mirrors, unless it happened at the time of a covered accident.
• Theft caused by leaving the vehicle running, leaving the keys in it, or not closing the windows and locking the doors.
• Accessories not fitted by the manufacturer, unless their type and value are explicitly stated in the policy.
• Car drifting, running a red light or driving against traffic, if the competent body's report proves it caused the accident.
• Driving in desert areas and on unpaved roads unless inside the city.

The company and the insured may agree to waive any exclusion unless that conflicts with the law, so ask about the ones that matter to you before signing.

 

What is the deductible in comprehensive insurance?

The rules define the deductible as the amount borne by the insured for any claim as stated in the policy schedule, and they control how it is applied:

• It is set by the insured in agreement with the company.
• It applies only to damage to the vehicle, not to third-party civil liability claims.
• It is calculated in proportion to the driver's share of liability if they are partly liable, and it is not charged if they are not liable according to the report of the competent body attending the accident.
• It applies once per accident, even if several claims result from it.
• It stays fixed throughout the policy period, whatever the type of accident or the value of the compensation.

In practice, it is what you will pay out of your own pocket in every accident you are liable for, so compare offers by it as well, not by the policy cost alone.

 

How do you choose car insurance that suits your car and your use?

The decision depends on whether you could bear the cost of repairing or losing your car yourself, so review these factors:

• The car's age and value: losing a new or high-value car is harder, and comprehensive cover compensates at the sum insured in a total loss; so make insurance part of your budget as in the new car buying guide.
• A used car: insurance does not cover manufacturing defects or malfunctions, so inspect it before buying and read our vehicle inspection tips before buying a used car, and make sure the sum insured reflects its fair value.
• Financing: if the car is financed, ask the finance provider which type of insurance the contract requires before signing; to compare the two ways of paying, read buying a car with financing or cash.
• Who drives the car: comprehensive cover applies to the insured and relatives such as parents, spouse, children and siblings, the domestic worker or someone working for the insured under an employment contract, and the named driver in the schedule; so add any other driver.
• How you use it: if you go on desert trips, ask about the exclusion of desert roads, and remember that accidents outside the Kingdom are an optional cover.

 

What should you check in the policy schedule before you pay?

The policy schedule is an integral part of the policy, so check:

1. Insured and vehicle details, and match the chassis number and plate with the vehicle registration card.
2. The type of cover, not the marketing name; the rules forbid describing third-party products with additional benefits as comprehensive insurance.
3. The coverage period, with its start and end dates and times.
4. The sum insured, the deductible, and the percentage at which the vehicle is considered an economic total loss.
5. The repairing party (agency or approved repair shop) and the towing and storage cover limit.
6. Named drivers, and the use restrictions and purpose of use.
7. The optional covers you accepted or declined.
8. Additional vehicle details, such as modifications and where it is parked at night, and make sure they are correct; and notify the company of any change in material facts within the set period.

These provisions may be updated, so confirm the latest version on the official website of the Insurance Authority, and the terms of your policy with a licensed insurance company.

 

Frequently asked questions about comprehensive and third-party car insurance

1. If someone else hits me and I only have third-party insurance, who repairs my car? You are the third party under the at-fault driver's policy, so their insurer compensates you for the material damage as per the unified policy. If you are at fault, your policy does not cover your car.
2. Do I need two policies with comprehensive insurance? The rules state that comprehensive insurance also covers civil liability towards third parties as per the unified policy, so it combines both protections in one policy.
3. Is a third-party policy with additional benefits considered comprehensive? No. The rules forbid naming or describing such products in any way as comprehensive insurance, so read the written covers, not the product name.
4. Does third-party insurance cover flood or fire damage to my car? No, it does not cover your car at all, and natural disasters are among its exceptions. Najm requires comprehensive insurance on the vehicle to report an accident caused by natural disasters or fire.
5. Can the policy be cancelled when I sell the car? Yes. Transfer of the vehicle's ownership is one of the cancellation cases under both policies, along with cancellation of its registration and the existence of an alternative policy, and the insured is refunded the amount due for the remaining period according to the calculation method set in the policy.

 

In short: third-party insurance is the compulsory minimum that protects others from damage caused by your vehicle, and comprehensive insurance adds protection for your own car in return for a deductible you agree on. Choose according to your car's value, its financing and how you use it, and read the policy schedule before you pay. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.

A Mojaz report helps you read a used car’s history through the records available; it does not deliver a final verdict on its condition. Start by matching the vehicle’s identity, then read mileage, accident and maintenance records chronologically and compare them with documents and the car’s current condition. No accident record does not mean accident-free, and missing mileage readings do not validate the odometer. Use the report to identify seller questions and professional inspection priorities before deciding to buy, not as a replacement for inspection.

What does a Mojaz report show, and what are its limits?

The official Mojaz homepage (in Arabic) says it brings together key historical vehicle data from official sources in one report. Its report outline lists vehicle information, odometer reading history, accident records, maintenance and repairs, warranty information, spare parts, vehicle reputation and related images.

These are section names presented by the service, not a promise that every section contains data for every car. Read what is actually available, and do not turn a blank field into a positive or negative finding. Likewise, do not infer a specific rating or acceptance standard from the vehicle reputation heading; use any accompanying explanation and ask about unclear descriptions before relying on them.

 

Start by matching the car and the report version

Before discussing findings, establish that the report belongs to the actual car being offered. Ask to see the full version rather than a cropped image of a reassuring section, and match its identification details to the vehicle documents and the car. Do not rely on a similar colour or general description, or dismiss an identification mismatch as a minor error without checking.

• Check the VIN if shown, comparing every character with the documents and its designated location on the car; seek professional help if anything is unclear.
• Note the report date if visible, distinguishing it from the event dates inside; a recent report may contain only an older record.
• Write down any data mismatch and ask for an explanation before evaluating mileage or accidents or concluding the agreement.

For identification details and their locations, see the guide to vehicle identification numbers, while paying attention to the name of each identifier in the document you are reading.

 

How do you read odometer records chronologically?

Read the date of each distance reading, not just the last number. Put the available readings in order from oldest to newest, then compare the latest with the car’s odometer during the viewing. Check measurement units first; do not directly compare figures expressed in different units. Your aim is to understand the sequence and identify questions, not estimate true mileage from cabin appearance alone.

1. Write the date and reading exactly as shown, distinguishing report information from something the seller says or a figure on an invoice.
2. If a later reading is lower than an earlier one, request a documented explanation and discuss possibilities with a professional; the inconsistency warrants a pause but is not a standalone diagnosis of tampering.
3. If there is a long gap, ask for documents covering that period; do not assume the car was unused throughout it.
4. If there are no readings at all, note that mileage has not been verified through this method instead of automatically accepting the current figure.

If the seller mentions an odometer replacement, ask for the work record and evidence of readings before and after replacement, if available. Do not fill a missing sequence with estimates or treat consistent readings alone as a guarantee that the entire usage history is known.

 

How should you interpret accident records and available images?

If an accident record appears, read its details as written and compare them with repair documents supplied by the seller. Do not reduce the assessment to a record count or label damage minor or severe without supporting information. A report may describe a historical event, while repair quality and present condition need an independent inspection.

If related images appear, check their connection to the event, the vehicle and their date whenever that information is available. A photograph does not reveal everything behind visible parts, and missing images do not rule out damage. Where structural repairs are suspected, request a specialist inspection. The guide to signs of bodywork and structural repairs can help you frame questions, not make your own technical verdict.

If no accident record appears, the accurate wording is: no event is visible in the data you are reading. Do not replace that with the car has never had an accident, or let that inference cancel the inspection or the request for repair documents.

 

How do you relate maintenance and repairs to current condition?

Read available maintenance and repair entries with their dates, comparing them with the seller’s invoices. Distinguish a record of past work from proof that the relevant system works well today. If a repair description recurs, ask what was done and what happened afterwards, without automatically assuming a particular fault or an unsuccessful repair.

Warranty information alone does not mean cover is active or transferable to you; verify the document and terms with the relevant provider. Equally, do not infer from a spare parts section that every component is genuine or in good condition. A missing maintenance record does not prove neglect, but leaves a question requiring documents and inspection.

Compare documented work with the appropriate owner’s manual requirements alongside a professional. Do not derive a new servicing schedule from the report or assume one completed job means all other scheduled work was done or related components are sound.

 

A reading checklist: information and limits of inference

Use this table to organise your notes; it is not a real sample vehicle report. Always distinguish what you read, what you still do not know and the next step needed to close that gap.

What you read	What it does not prove alone	Next step
Consecutive odometer readings	Complete mileage history	Compare with the odometer and documents
No odometer readings	Accuracy of current mileage	Seek more evidence and document the gap
An accident record	Current repair quality	Repair documents and specialist inspection
No visible accident record	An accident-free car	Professional body and paint inspection
Recorded maintenance work	The component’s condition today	Compare with the current inspection
Warranty information	Active cover for the buyer	Verify terms with the relevant provider

 

Which questions should you ask the seller?

Start with an open question about the car’s usage history, then address unclear report entries. Request specific answers that can be connected to documents; personal trust or numerous photographs are not substitutes for verification. Keep your notes separate from the original report so your interpretations do not become confused with its records.

• Is this the full version for this exact vehicle? Which documents support the details or explain a visible discrepancy?
• Has the odometer been repaired or replaced? Are invoices or saved readings available for periods with no visible record?
• Are you aware of body repairs, repainting or accidents not shown here? What work was done and which documents are available?
• Where was the most recent service performed, what was actually done, and which recommended jobs remain outstanding?
• Will you allow an independent inspection and a review of findings before agreement? How can your explanation of a record mismatch be documented?

 

What still needs inspecting before you decide to buy?

Give the professional your report and notes before inspection, and request an assessment of the current structure, mechanical and electrical systems and safety components. Do not simply seek confirmation of an existing impression: ask what was checked and what could not be verified. To organise the rest of the viewing, see the used car inspection tips before purchase.

If a material identity or mileage discrepancy appears, or a significant repair remains unexplained, postpone the decision until it is clarified. If the gap cannot be closed, treat it as unknown information rather than proof of sound condition. Once the technical assessment is settled, review the vehicle ownership transfer steps on Absher separately; a history report does not replace the sale procedures.

 

Frequently asked questions about reading a Mojaz report

1. Does no accident record mean the car is sound? No. It means an accident record is not visible in the available data you read. Body condition and repair quality still need inspection.
2. Does the report validate the car’s mileage? Available reading sequences help comparisons but do not guarantee a complete history. If readings are missing, mileage cannot be accepted on the report alone.
3. Is every section available for every car? Do not assume this from the section names on the website. Read the actual content and ask about missing information or unclear wording.
4. What if the report contradicts the seller? Identify the conflicting entry, ask for a document explaining it and show it to a professional. Neither ignore the conflict nor automatically turn it into an accusation.
5. Does a Mojaz report replace a technical inspection? No. A history report presents available historical information, whereas an inspection assesses current condition within its scope. Combine both with documents before deciding.

 

In short, read a Mojaz report as available evidence and open questions, not a certificate that the car has no defects. Match its identity, review the timeline and connect the findings with documents and an independent inspection. A stronger decision clearly distinguishes what is established from what remains unknown.

To check car recalls in Saudi Arabia, enter the VIN on the official recall platform, then read the campaign details and follow the instructions for your vehicle. A matching model name or model year alone does not establish inclusion, and no result does not mean the car is defect-free. If a campaign applies, contact the responsible party named in it, ask about driving instructions and an appointment, and retain confirmation of the completed repair.

What are car recalls in Saudi Arabia?

A recall is an action to address an announced defect, not a general description of every problem a car develops. The Ministry of Commerce explains that its enquiry service checks whether products or vehicles are included in campaigns announced in cooperation with manufacturers and local agents. Start with the official source rather than a shared image or a message of unknown origin.

Refer to the Ministry of Commerce defective products enquiry service (in Arabic) for the service sequence: access the platform, enter the VIN or search for the product, then follow the campaign details and required actions. Do not assume a recall means replacing the car; the relevant action is the one specified for the campaign once its applicability to your vehicle is confirmed.

 

What should you prepare before a VIN recall check?

Have the vehicle identification number, or VIN, ready. Read it from a reliable document for the car or from the location identified in the owner’s manual. Do not substitute the registration plate number or another identifier simply because its name sounds similar. For help identifying it, see the guide to your vehicle identification number, then match the details to the actual car.

• Copy the complete number exactly and check the letters and digits before searching, especially when copying from an image or message.
• Keep the basic vehicle details and any recall notice you received so you can explain your enquiry clearly when making contact.
• If the number on a document differs from the one on the car, have a qualified party clarify the discrepancy before relying on the search result.

Do not send full images of your documents to untrusted accounts to make an enquiry. Start through the official channel and provide what the responsible party requests through its authorised contact method, without posting your details in public comments.

 

How do you search the recall platform?

1. Open the official defective products recall platform and find the vehicle or product checking field rather than only browsing the latest announcements.
2. Enter the VIN you checked and run the search. If the field rejects the entry, review the number and field instructions rather than guessing a replacement character.
3. Read the full result and open the details of any associated campaign. Note its reference if shown, the defect description and the required action.
4. Review the instructions, then contact the specified party to confirm VIN inclusion and arrange the next step, rather than choosing a contact from an unofficial advertisement.

Searching by product or brand name helps you find announcements, but it does not replace matching the individual car. Keep the date of your enquiry and a copy of the details for reference. Do not treat an old screenshot as a permanent answer about recalls, particularly when a new notice arrives.

 

How should you interpret the search result?

Distinguish finding an announcement from confirming that your vehicle is included, and distinguish inclusion from actual completion of the required action. This table helps you choose the next step; it does not represent fixed status labels used by the platform:

What did you find?	What should you do?
An announcement naming your car model	Match the VIN and check the campaign scope before assuming it applies to your car.
A result indicating that the vehicle is included	Read the campaign instructions and contact the party responsible for carrying out the action.
No result, or a search that could not be completed	Check the entry; if you have a notice or a specific concern, seek confirmation from the relevant party.
The seller says the repair was completed	Request the completion document and match it to the VIN and the relevant campaign.

The absence of a recall result does not guarantee safety or replace an inspection when there are unusual symptoms. Likewise, do not attribute a noise or vibration to a campaign simply because its description seems similar. Diagnosing a fault requires a professional, while the enquiry answers a different question: whether the car is included in the campaign.

 

What should you do if your car is included?

Read the full defect description, risk and instructions before planning a trip to a service centre. There is no single driving recommendation for every campaign. If the announcement specifies instructions about use or stopping, follow them. If anything remains unclear, ask the responsible party how to handle and transport the car before moving it.

• Provide the VIN and campaign reference, and ask for confirmation that the discussion concerns this specific car and action.
• Ask where the work takes place, how to book and what to bring, and confirm the instructions to follow until the appointment.
• Keep the contact and appointment details, and ask how to obtain written confirmation when the work is finished.

Do not deliberately try to reproduce the defect, dismantle a suspected component or cancel a warning to continue driving. If the action requires a part or technical work, do not assume that buying a replacement yourself closes the campaign. To understand parts choices outside this process, read the guide to genuine, aftermarket and used car parts; follow up recall work with the party responsible for it.

 

How do you follow up and keep proof of repair?

When collecting the car, request a document showing the work performed and its date, linked to the VIN and campaign. Check that the details concern your car, and ask whether the action is complete or another step remains. An appointment confirmation or service-centre visit alone does not necessarily show that the recall work is finished.

Keep the document with the vehicle records, a copy of the announcement and important correspondence. If a later search seems inconsistent with the completion document, show both to the responsible party and request clarification instead of assuming one overrides the other. If symptoms remain or a concern appears after the work, report it and request a technical assessment. Proof of campaign repair is not a certificate that the car has no other faults.

 

What should you check before buying a used car?

Add a check for open recalls, meaning those whose required action is not yet complete, to your pre-purchase checklist. Request the VIN, match it to the car and search for yourself rather than relying on a verbal assurance or an image for a similar vehicle. If the seller mentions a completed earlier campaign, request its document and review the VIN and work details.

If a campaign applies and completion is unclear, ask the responsible party what remains before deciding to buy or use the vehicle. Do not make a recall result a substitute for a technical inspection or a review of the car’s condition; combine it with these used car inspection tips before purchase. The aim is to establish what has been verified and what needs follow-up, not to obtain a comprehensive guarantee from one search result.

 

Frequently asked questions about car recalls

1. Is the car name enough to establish inclusion? Do not rely on it alone. Identify the vehicle using its VIN, then confirm campaign applicability with the responsible party if the result remains unclear.
2. Does no result mean the car is completely safe? No. The enquiry is not a comprehensive technical inspection and does not justify ignoring symptoms or warnings that need professional assessment.
3. Should I wait for a fault before making contact? Once inclusion is confirmed, follow the campaign instructions and contact the responsible party about the action without waiting for a noticeable symptom or trying to produce one.
4. Can I book any workshop to close the recall? Start with the party identified in the announcement and ask it to direct you to the place of service and explain completion confirmation, rather than assuming any independent repair is enough.
5. What should I keep after the action is completed? Retain confirmation linked to the VIN and campaign, the work date and important correspondence to make follow-up or explaining the car’s history when selling it easier.

 

Start with the correct VIN, read the full announcement and follow up with the responsible party until completion and documentation are clear. Make the enquiry part of caring for a car and checking it before purchase, not a replacement for a technical inspection or its specific safety instructions.