Causes of Engine Vibration When the Car Is Idling

Car spare parts fall into three main types: genuine parts (dealer parts) that carry the carmaker's brand or are made by its supplier to the same specification, aftermarket parts made by other companies with varying quality, and used parts from salvage yards (tashleeh) removed from other cars, while counterfeit parts that imitate the look and brand of genuine parts should be avoided completely. The practical rule: choose genuine or trusted high-quality aftermarket parts for safety items such as brakes, steering, suspension, airbags and tyres, accept good aftermarket parts for consumables like filters, wipers and bulbs, and always confirm the part number, keep the invoice and have the part fitted at a qualified workshop.

What are the types of car spare parts and how do they differ?

Parts may look alike, but they differ in their maker, specification and source; the table below summarises the types found in shops and workshops:

Type	What it means	What sets it apart	What to watch for
Genuine (dealer)	A part carrying the carmaker's brand, sold through the dealer or its distributors	Matches factory specifications and has a clear source	Usually costs more and may need to be ordered
Original supplier (OES)	A part made by the supplier that supplies the carmaker, sold in its own box and brand	May match the genuine part's specifications	Do not assume a match; ask and compare the part number
Aftermarket	A part made by other companies to fit several models	More choice and often lower cost	Quality varies widely by manufacturer
Used (salvage)	A part removed from another car, possibly genuine originally	A solution for rare or discontinued parts	Unknown age and history, and it may carry no warranty
Counterfeit	A part that imitates the look, box and brand of the genuine part	No real advantage; the tempting price is the bait	A safety risk and commercial fraud

The Technical Regulation for Auto Spare Parts issued by the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization defines original parts as parts designed and manufactured to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications, made either by the vehicle manufacturer itself or by a manufacturer working to the same specification and quality control system, while commercial parts are replacement parts made to international standards, country-of-origin standards or the parts manufacturer's own standards, so that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's performance requirements.

Because market terms are not standardised, and some sellers use the word genuine or the abbreviation OEM for parts that do not come from the dealer, ask clearly: who made the part? What is its number? What warranty does it carry?

 

Which parts should be genuine or high quality?

Some parts are what stops the car, steers it or protects you in a crash, and they can fail suddenly. For these parts, do not make price the first criterion; choose genuine or an aftermarket part from a known manufacturer that meets the carmaker's specifications:

• Brakes: pads, discs and hoses; use brake fluid of the specification stated in the owner's manual, and you can review the types of brake fluid and the uses of each type.
• Steering: the steering rack, tie rods and their ends, since any play or breakage directly affects control of the car.
• Suspension: shock absorbers, control arms and ball joints, which affect the car's stability and grip; poor ones may wear quickly or break.
• Airbags and seat belts: do not buy them from an unknown source, and leave their inspection and replacement to a specialist technician.
• Tyres: buy them new from a trusted source in the size, load index and speed rating recommended for your car, and check their manufacture date.

The same applies to parts whose failure can cause major damage to the engine or gearbox, such as the timing belt, where fitted, and the water pump.

 

When are aftermarket parts a reasonable choice?

An aftermarket part is not necessarily poor, as quality varies from one manufacturer to another, and it is often a reasonable choice for consumables that are replaced periodically and are easy to check, such as:

• Oil, air and cabin filters: choose a filter that matches the size and specification, and learn the signs that your car needs a new air filter.
• Wipers and bulbs: check the wiper length and the bulb base type and wattage suitable for your car.
• Spark plugs: their type and specifications must match what the carmaker specifies, so read about spark plug types and when to replace them.
• Interior trim and plastic covers that do not affect safety.

In every case, insist on three things: a known manufacturer with clear data on the box, a part number that matches yours or is an approved replacement for it, and a seller who gives you an invoice. Because these parts follow fixed intervals, tie their purchase to your periodic car maintenance schedule instead of waiting until they fail.

 

Are used salvage parts a safe choice?

Salvage parts may be genuine originally, but they carry the age and usage of the car they came from, so they suit some cases and not others:

• Often suitable: exterior body parts such as fenders, mirrors and covers, cabin parts, and rare or discontinued parts, after confirming their condition and fit.
• Not suitable: wearing brake, steering and suspension parts, airbags and seat belts, tyres of unknown age, and filters and rubber parts.
• Engine or gearbox: do not buy either without a technical inspection; ask about its source and about a trial or return period, and record its number on the invoice.

Before buying, inspect the part yourself: signs of impact, welding or rust, signs of flooding or fire, or cracks in rubber and plastic, and match its number with your part's number.

 

How do you spot counterfeit spare parts?

A counterfeit copies the look, box and brand of the genuine part but not its specification, and may seem convincing at first glance. Warning signs include:

• The box: faded printing or unusual colours, spelling mistakes, a poorly made logo, a broken seal, or missing manufacturer name, country of manufacture and part number.
• The part itself: a rough finish, noticeably lighter weight than the old part, a missing engraved number and logo, or a different shape and mounting points.
• The price: a price far below the market for a part offered as genuine.
• The seller: a shop that gives no invoice, does not name the manufacturer and country of manufacture, or refuses returns if the part does not fit.
• Verification codes: if the box carries a verification code or security label from the manufacturer, check it through the manufacturer's official channels.

The same regulation requires each package to show the manufacturer's name or trademark, the country of origin, and the part's designation or number as classified in the manufacturer's catalogue; missing data is a warning sign in itself.

 

How do you confirm the part number before buying?

The part number is the most precise way to make sure a part fits your car, because parts for the same model can differ by model year, trim and engine type.

1. Photograph the part number engraved or labelled on the old part if it is visible.
2. Have the vehicle identification number (VIN) from your registration card ready, as it helps the dealer and shops identify the correct part.
3. Ask the dealer for the original part number, then compare any aftermarket alternative with it, as many aftermarket manufacturers list the original numbers their parts correspond to.
4. If you are told the part has a newer replacement number, ask for proof that it is an approved replacement for the old number.
5. Compare the new part with the old one before fitting: dimensions, mounting points and connections.

 

What should you ask of the seller and the workshop?

Proper paperwork and correct fitting matter as much as the part itself:

• A detailed invoice stating the part name, number and type (genuine, aftermarket or used), the country of manufacture, and any warranty and return terms.
• Old parts: ask the workshop to return them to you or show them to you, so you can confirm the replacement was actually made.
• Warranty: the seller's warranty on the part is different from the carmaker's warranty on the car; if your car is under warranty, read its terms or ask the dealer before fitting non-genuine parts or servicing elsewhere, and keep all invoices.
• A qualified workshop: brake, steering and suspension parts need the right tools and tightening torque, some require bleeding the brakes or a wheel alignment after fitting, and airbags need a specialist technician.
• After fitting: test the car with the technician, and make sure no warning lights appear on the dashboard and there are no strange noises.

 

Frequently asked questions about car spare parts

1. Are aftermarket parts always lower quality? No, their quality varies by manufacturer; some come close to genuine and some are poor. What matters is the manufacturer's reputation, matching the specification and the part number, not the word aftermarket alone.
2. Does fitting a non-genuine part void the car's warranty? It depends on your car's warranty terms, so do not assume the answer; check the warranty booklet or ask the dealer before fitting, and keep the part and workshop invoices.
3. Should I buy spare parts online? You can, from known stores that clearly state the manufacturer, the part number and the return policy, while being wary of very low prices for parts offered as genuine.
4. Can I fit an airbag from a salvage yard? We do not recommend it, because you know neither its history nor its condition, and it is one of the most important means of protection in a crash; ask for a new part suitable for your car, and leave fitting to a specialist technician.
5. What should I do if I discover a part is counterfeit? Stop using it if it is a safety part, keep it and the invoice, and go back to the seller. If you suspect commercial fraud, you can report it through the official channels of the Ministry of Commerce; procedures may be updated, so confirm the latest steps on its official platforms.

 

The difference between genuine, aftermarket and used parts lies in the specification, the source and the paperwork, not the name: choose the best for safety parts, use good aftermarket parts for consumables, treat salvage parts with caution, and avoid counterfeits completely. To plan your car's maintenance, read how to choose the right maintenance to cut car costs and faults.

Should you buy your car in cash or with financing? Paying cash usually means you pay the lowest total amount and own the car immediately with no monthly commitments, but it can drain your savings. Financing lets you get the car now and spread its price over installments, but what you pay in the end is usually higher because of the financing cost and fees. The right decision depends on your savings, the stability of your income, and the total cost of each option, not on the monthly installment alone. In this article we compare the two methods and explain how to calculate the cost, compare offers, and read the contract before signing.

What is the difference between buying a car in cash and with financing?

When you buy in cash, you pay the full price of the car at the time of purchase and the financial relationship with the seller ends. When you buy with financing or installments, you pay part of the price as a down payment, the rest is split into monthly installments over a period set by the contract, and the financing cost is added to it.

• Cash: one amount paid once, with no monthly installments and no financing cost.
• Financing: a down payment smaller than the car's price, followed by monthly installments that are usually fixed until the end of the term.
• Some finance contracts include a final payment larger than the installments at the end of the term; it lowers the monthly installment but does not cancel the amount.
• In both cases, you still carry the same running costs, such as fuel, insurance, and scheduled maintenance.

 

What are the pros and cons of buying a car in cash?

• You usually pay the lowest possible total, because you carry no financing cost or related fees.
• You own the car immediately and can sell or trade it in whenever you like without going back to any party.
• There is no monthly commitment putting pressure on your budget if your income changes or unexpected expenses come up.
• Paying cash may give you a better chance to negotiate, or to benefit from cash-payment offers if available.
• On the other hand, buying in cash can drain your savings and leave you without enough of an emergency reserve.
• The amount you have may also push you toward a car that is less than you need, or make you delay the purchase until your savings are complete.

 

What are the pros and cons of buying a car with financing?

• You get the car now without waiting until you have saved its full price.
• You keep part of your savings for emergencies or other priorities in your life.
• The price is spread over installments known in advance, making it easier to plan your monthly budget.
• On the other hand, the total you pay is higher than the car's cash price in most cases, because of the financing cost and fees.
• The installment commits you for years, and any change in your income can turn it into a heavy burden.
• Financing may require a certain type of insurance throughout the term, and there may be restrictions on selling the car before full payment, depending on the contract.

 

How do you calculate the total cost of the car in both cases?

Do not compare the cash price with the monthly installment; compare the total amount that will come out of your pocket with each option.

1. For cash: add the car's price to the registration fees, the extras you will buy, and the cost of insurance.
2. For financing: add the down payment, the monthly installment multiplied by the number of months, the final payment if any, the administrative fees, and the cost of insurance for the whole term of the contract.
3. Subtract the car's cash price from the financing total; the difference is the real cost of getting the car now instead of waiting.
4. Add the expected running costs of fuel and maintenance; they are similar under both options, but they affect your ability to pay the installment. If fuel consumption matters for your budget, check our list of the best fuel-efficient cars.
5. Work out how much of your savings will remain after each option, and make sure it is enough for emergencies.

 

How do you compare car finance offers?

1. Ask each provider for a written offer for the same car, with the same term and the same down payment, so the comparison is fair.
2. Compare the total amount paid and the overall financing cost, and do not settle for comparing the monthly installment.
3. Ask about all fees linked to the contract, such as administrative fees, the cost of insurance, and any other charges.
4. Pay attention to the effect of the term: a longer term lowers the installment, but it usually raises the total you pay.
5. Pay attention to the effect of the down payment and the final payment on both the installment and the total amount.
6. Ask about early settlement terms and the possibility of paying off the remaining amount before the end of the term.
7. Check the current car offers, as some offers include special benefits on financing or on cash payment.

 

What should you read in the finance contract before signing?

1. The car details in the contract: model, trim, model year, color, and VIN when available, and that they match what you agreed on.
2. The down payment amount, the number of installments, the value and due date of each installment, and the final payment if any.
3. The total amount you will pay until the end of the contract, clearly written.
4. What happens if an installment is late or you default on payments, and the consequences of that.
5. Insurance terms: its type, who bears its cost, and who receives the compensation in the event of an accident.
6. When ownership of the car passes to you, and whether you can sell or trade it in before the contract ends.
7. Early settlement terms and any fees or discounts linked to it.
8. Do not sign any paper with blank spaces, ask about every clause you do not understand, and keep a full copy of the contract and the installment schedule.

 

When is cash better for you, and when is financing better?

• Cash is better if you have the car's price available and still keep enough of an emergency reserve afterwards.
• Cash is also better if you prefer not to commit to installments, or if your income is not steady.
• Financing is better if you need the car now for your work or your family and do not want to drain all your savings.
• Financing suits you if your income is stable and the installment leaves comfortable room in your budget for fuel, maintenance, and emergencies.
• There is a middle option: a larger down payment from your savings with a shorter term, which lowers the total financing cost without draining everything you have.
• If your budget is limited either way, consider a less expensive car or a used car in good condition; before that, read our important tips before buying a used car.

 

What are the common mistakes when buying a car with financing?

• Choosing the car based only on the monthly installment, without calculating the total amount.
• Stretching the finance term to lower the installment, then paying a larger total in the end.
• Ignoring the final payment and not preparing for it as the end of the contract approaches.
• Forgetting the costs of insurance, fuel, and maintenance when working out your ability to pay.
• Putting all your savings into the down payment and leaving no emergency reserve.
• Signing quickly under the pressure of an offer, without reading the contract or comparing other offers.

 

Frequently asked questions about buying a car in cash or with financing

1. Is financing always more expensive than cash? Usually yes, because of the financing cost and fees, but some promotional offers may narrow the gap, so compare the total amount in each case.
2. Is a larger down payment better? It reduces the amount financed, and therefore usually reduces the installment and the financing cost, as long as it does not drain your emergency reserve.
3. Can I pay off the financing before the end of the term? That depends on the contract terms, so ask about early settlement and any fees or discounts linked to it before signing.
4. Can I sell a financed car before the installments end? The contract determines this, and it usually requires settling the remaining amount first or getting the finance provider's approval.
5. What matters more when comparing: the installment or the total amount? The total amount matters most; then make sure the installment fits comfortably in your monthly budget.

 

There is no single best option for everyone; cash saves you the financing cost, and installments give you flexibility. Calculate the total amount in both cases, keep an emergency reserve for yourself, and read the whole contract before signing. Once you have set your budget, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and choose what suits your needs.

To buy a new car with confidence and without surprises, set your full budget rather than just the car's price, choose the body type and trim that suit your daily use, take a test drive yourself, ask for a written quotation that clearly states the warranty and everything the price includes, and inspect the car carefully before taking delivery. In this guide we explain these steps in order, from planning to the first service, keeping in mind the needs of drivers in the Kingdom, from summer heat to long highway trips between cities.

How do you set your budget before buying a new car?

A realistic budget does not stop at the car's showroom price; it includes everything you will pay to own and run it during the first years.

• The price of the car itself, making sure whether it includes tax, registration, and plates or not.
• Insurance, whose cost varies with the type of car and the type of cover you choose.
• Monthly fuel consumption based on the distance you usually drive and the size and type of the engine.
• Scheduled maintenance, oil changes, tires, and battery replacement over the medium term.
• Extras you may want, such as window tint, paint protection, and floor mats.
• The payment method: paying in cash differs from paying in installments in the total you end up paying, so calculate the full cost in both cases.

 

What type of car suits your use?

Start from how you will use the car, not from how it looks; the right car for an employee commuting within the city differs from the right car for a large family that often travels between cities.

• A sedan usually suits daily use in the city, is easy to park, and its fuel consumption is typically moderate.
• SUVs offer more space and ground clearance, suit families and trips, and some come with four-wheel drive for those who head out to the desert.
• A pickup suits those who need to carry cargo or do field work, but it is usually less comfortable for everyday city driving.
• The number of seats matters if your family is large; some cars offer a third row of seats, so check the trunk space when it is in use.
• Powertrain: petrol, hybrid, or electric, each with its pros and cons; learn about the difference between hybrid and electric cars before you decide.
• If saving fuel is a priority for you, check our list of the best fuel-efficient cars to narrow down your options.

 

How do you compare a car's trims and specifications?

A single model usually comes in several trims that differ in equipment and engine, and the gap between them can be significant in both price and everyday use.

1. Ask for the specification sheet of the exact trim you will buy, and do not rely on photos or ads of a higher trim.
2. Put safety systems ahead of luxuries: airbags, ABS, stability and traction control, the reversing camera, and parking sensors.
3. Check the strength of the AC and whether there are rear AC vents if you carry passengers in the back seats, as this matters in the Kingdom's summer.
4. Compare the transmission type and engine size with what suits your driving on highways and inclines.
5. Pay attention to the size of the rims and tires; larger sizes may look better but can cost more to replace, and make sure there is a spare tire.
6. Do not pay for features you will not use; choose the trim that covers your actual needs.

 

What should you check during a test drive?

1. Adjust the seat, steering wheel, and mirrors, and make sure visibility in all directions is comfortable and clear.
2. Drive the car on a road you usually use, in the city and on a highway if possible.
3. Notice how smoothly the transmission shifts and how the accelerator responds when speeding up and overtaking.
4. Test the brakes and steering at low speeds and when parking, and listen for any unusual noises or vibrations.
5. Run the AC at full power and notice how quickly it cools and how noisy the cabin is.
6. Bring your family along if you can so they can try the rear seats, ease of getting in and out, and fitting child seats.

 

What should you read in the quotation and warranty before signing?

1. Ask for a written quotation that states the model, trim, model year, and color, and everything the price includes.
2. Make sure agreed extras such as tint or floor mats are written into the quotation, and do not settle for verbal promises.
3. Read the warranty terms: its duration and the distance it covers, the parts included and excluded, and the conditions for keeping it valid, such as sticking to the service schedule.
4. Ask about free service packages if any, roadside assistance, and the service centers near you.
5. Confirm the expected delivery date, and who handles registration, plates, and insurance.
6. Check the current car offers before signing, as you may find extra benefits on the model you want.

 

What should you inspect on a new car before taking delivery?

Even a new car can pick up a scratch or a minor defect during shipping or storage, so set aside enough time to inspect it before signing for delivery.

1. Inspect the paint in daylight for scratches or color differences, and check that the gaps between doors and fenders are even.
2. Match the vehicle identification number (VIN) on the car with the number written on the documents.
3. Make sure the odometer reading is low and consistent with a new car.
4. Test all electrical systems: lights, windows, screen, camera, sensors, and AC.
5. Check the manufacturing date and condition of the tires, and that the spare tire and tool kit are present.
6. Make sure you receive the owner's manual, the warranty booklet, and the spare key, and that no warning light stays on in the dashboard after starting.

 

What are the common mistakes when buying a new car?

• Buying on emotion or because of an ad before making sure the car suits your actual needs.
• Focusing only on the monthly installment and ignoring the total you will pay.
• Ignoring running costs such as fuel, insurance, and maintenance.
• Signing before reading the full contract and warranty terms.
• Skipping the test drive or settling for a short loop around the showroom.
• Taking delivery at night or in a hurry without inspecting the car properly.

 

How do you care for your new car in the first months?

1. Read the owner's manual, and follow any recommendations for the early driving period if the manufacturer mentions them.
2. Keep to the first service appointment and the regular maintenance schedule to keep the warranty valid.
3. Keep all maintenance invoices and records; they matter for the warranty and for the car's value when you sell it later.
4. Park in the shade or use a sunshade to protect the paint and cabin from the heat of the sun.
5. Check tire pressure regularly, especially before trips and during very hot periods.

 

Frequently asked questions about buying a new car

1. Is it better to buy a new or a used car? A new car gives you a warranty, a clean history, and peace of mind, while a used car usually costs less but needs a careful inspection; if you choose used, read our important tips before buying a used car.
2. Does a new car need an inspection before delivery? Yes, a simple but careful check at delivery reveals any scratch or missing accessory before you sign.
3. Does servicing outside the dealership affect the warranty? It depends on the written warranty terms, so ask about them before buying and always keep a maintenance record.
4. Are extras such as tint and paint protection necessary? They are optional and can be useful in the Kingdom's climate, but decide based on your needs and ask for them to be written clearly in the quotation.
5. How long should the decision to buy a new car take? There is no fixed period, but give yourself enough time to compare, test drive, and read the quotation instead of deciding in a single visit.

 

Buying a new car is a big decision, and good planning saves you a lot of money and regret. Set your full budget, choose what suits your use, and test, read, and inspect before you sign. When you are ready, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and compare models and trims at your own pace.

If you are asking when to replace car tyres, the short answer is: replace a tyre when the surface of the tread reaches the level of the raised wear indicators inside the grooves, when a bulge, a deep cut or clear cracks appear in its sidewall, or when the rubber has aged to the point at which the tyre or car manufacturer recommends replacement, even if the tread looks good. In this guide we explain how to check your tyres, what the wear pattern reveals, and how to choose the right replacement.

When should you replace car tyres? The key signs in brief

Replacement is not tied to a single distance for every car, but to the tyre's condition and its maker's recommendations. The main signs are:

• The tread surface has reached the level of the wear indicators in any part of the tyre, not just on average.
• A bulge or bubble in the sidewall, a deep cut, or exposed cords or internal fabric.
• Clear cracks in the sidewall or between the tread blocks, showing that the rubber has aged and hardened.
• Uneven wear that has left part of the tyre smooth even though the rest of its surface is sound.
• A persistent vibration that does not go away after balancing, or repeated pressure loss in the same tyre with no visible cause.

 

How do you check tread depth using the TWI wear indicators?

Inside the grooves are small raised bars called wear indicators, whose location is marked by the letters TWI or a small triangle on the tyre's shoulder, and when the tread surface is level with them, the tyre has reached the end of its usable life. To check:

1. Park the car on level ground and turn the steering wheel to one side so you can see the front tyres clearly.
2. Look for the TWI mark or triangle on the tyre's shoulder, then look into the groove next to it to find the raised bar.
3. Compare the level of the tread surface with the bar; the closer they are to level, the closer the replacement date.
4. Repeat the check on the inner edge, the centre and the outer edge, and at several points around the tyre's circumference.
5. For a more precise reading, use a tread depth gauge, available at tyre shops, and record the reading for each tyre.
6. Some drivers use a coin as a rough gauge, but it is no substitute for a proper gauge or a look by a qualified technician.

Do not wait until they are exactly level if you travel often or drive in the rain, as water clearance and grip weaken gradually as the tread gets shallower.

 

What do tyre cracks and sidewall bulges mean?

The sidewall flexes with every turn of the wheel and carries the car's weight, so any damage to it is more dangerous than tread wear:

• Fine surface cracks: an early sign of rubber ageing caused by heat and sun, which calls for the tyre to be inspected by a specialist and monitored.
• Deep cracks: if they widen or reach the tyre's inner layers, it is time to replace it.
• A bulge or bubble: damage to the tyre's internal structure, usually after hitting a pothole or kerb, which requires immediate replacement and no travelling on it.
• Cuts and gashes: a deep cut in the sidewall weakens the tyre even if no air is leaking from it yet.

 

What does the tyre wear pattern reveal?

The wear pattern reveals the cause of the problem, and if you do not fix it, new tyres will wear the same way:

Wear pattern	Likely cause	What to do
Both edges more than the centre	Pressure lower than recommended	Set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker and check it regularly
Centre more than the edges	Pressure higher than recommended	Set the recommended pressure, not the maximum pressure printed on the tyre
One inner or outer edge	Wheel alignment or suspension fault	Check the alignment and suspension parts
Diagonal, feather-like wear	Incorrect toe between the two wheels	Have the alignment set at an equipped workshop
Repeated patches or scallops	Unbalanced wheels or worn shock absorbers	Balance the wheels and check the shock absorbers
A single flat spot	Hard braking with a locked wheel, or standing a long time without moving	Have a specialist assess the tyre

If you see wear on both edges, start by reviewing the causes, signs and solutions for low tyre pressure, and if the wear is on one edge or comes with the car pulling to one side, read about the difference between wheel balancing and alignment.

 

How do Saudi heat and sand affect tyre life?

Rubber ages over time even if the car is used little, and you will find how to tell a tyre's age from the DOT code in our article on how to read tyre size and manufacture date. There is no single lifespan for all tyres, so refer to the tyre and car makers' recommendations. In the Kingdom's climate, some factors speed up deterioration:

• Direct sun and high heat speed up the hardening and cracking of rubber, especially for cars standing for long periods in open car parks, so park in the shade whenever possible.
• Hot asphalt raises tyre temperature, and the effect grows with low pressure or overloading on long trips.
• Sandy, gravel and desert tracks expose the tread and sidewall to cuts from sharp stones, so inspect the tyres after every desert trip.
• If you lower tyre pressure (deflating) to drive on sand, restore it to the recommended value before returning to asphalt, because highway driving at low pressure raises tyre temperature.

 

Should you replace tyres in pairs or all four together?

Ideally all four tyres match, but replacing them all together is not always necessary:

• Replace both tyres on the same axle together at least, so grip does not differ between the two sides when braking or cornering.
• When replacing only one pair, many tyre makers recommend fitting the newer pair on the rear axle for better stability, unless the owner's manual says otherwise.
• In four-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive cars, the owner's manual may require the four tyres to be close in size and degree of wear to protect the drive system, so check it before replacing only two.

 

What about the spare tyre?

The spare forgotten in the boot ages just like the other tyres, even if it is never used:

• Check its pressure regularly and before every trip, because a flat spare will not help you when you get a puncture.
• Read its manufacture date and inspect its sidewall, as it may be older than the tyres on the car.
• A small temporary spare is designed for a limited distance and speed stated in the owner's manual or on the tyre's side, so use it only to reach the nearest tyre shop.
• If your car comes with a repair kit instead of a spare, check its expiry and how to use it.

 

How do you choose the right replacement tyre: size, load and speed?

Choose what your car was designed for, not just what the shop has in stock, and check the following:

1. Size: copy it from the sticker on the driver's door frame or from the owner's manual, not from the tyre currently fitted, which may be different.
2. Load index and speed symbol: choose values equal to or higher than the car manufacturer's recommendation, never lower.
3. Manufacture date: ask for recently made tyres with close dates, especially on the same axle.
4. Type of use: a driver who often travels on highways has different needs from one who drives in the desert or carries heavy loads, so ask about the tyre designed for your use.
5. Changing the size: do not change the size of your tyres or rims without consulting a specialist; to learn the effect, read our article on whether the wrong rims make your car use more fuel.
6. After fitting: balance the wheels, set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker, and check the alignment if the old tyres were worn unevenly.

 

What is the tyre energy efficiency label in Saudi Arabia?

The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization offers the Energy Efficiency Label for Tires service, and explains that the label serves as a guide for consumers before purchasing the product to increase their awareness of its energy efficiency before buying it.

The organization lists tyres among the products subject to the efficiency label regulations, and the aims of these labels include reducing energy consumption for the consumer, enabling the consumer to know a product's efficiency before buying, and protecting consumer safety and health and the environment. In practice:

• When comparing tyres of the same size, ask to see the energy efficiency label for each one and read its details.
• Do not make the label your only criterion; size, load index, speed symbol, manufacture date and the tyre's suitability for your use come first.
• Requirements and procedures may be updated from time to time, so check the latest information on the organization's website.

 

Frequently asked questions about replacing car tyres

1. Should I replace a tyre that is old even if its tread is good? Tread depth alone is not enough, as rubber hardens over time; have it checked by a specialist and follow the tyre maker's recommendation.
2. Can a puncture in the side of the tyre be repaired? Repairing holes in the sidewall or shoulder is not usually recommended, while for a hole in the tread area the technician decides whether it can be repaired based on its size and position.
3. Can I fit two tyres of different types? This is not recommended on the same axle, and it is best for all four tyres to match in type and tread pattern, especially in four-wheel-drive cars.
4. Are small cracks between the tread blocks dangerous? They are a sign of ageing that may not require immediate replacement, but have a specialist monitor them, and if they deepen, replace the tyre.
5. How often should I check my tyres? Check their pressure and appearance regularly, for example when refuelling, before every trip, and after hitting a pothole or kerb or after a desert trip.

 

Checking your tyres takes only minutes: look at the wear indicators, inspect the sidewall, notice the wear pattern and read the manufacture date. If a danger sign appears, do not postpone the change; choose a replacement with the recommended size, load and speed ratings, then fix the cause of any uneven wear.

Summer car care means focusing on the systems that heat strains the most: check the cooling system and radiator coolant, the battery, tire pressure, AC performance, and engine oil before the peak of the heat, and protect the paint and cabin from direct sun. The Kingdom's long summer, with its high temperatures, dust, and desert trips, doubles the strain on the car, and most summer breakdowns can be avoided with a simple, regular review. In this guide, we show you what to check and how to act if a problem appears on the road.

Why does your car need special care in the Saudi summer?

Air and asphalt temperatures rise sharply in the summer months, so the car's systems work in harsher conditions than usual, and the strain on them increases with traffic, hours of AC use, and long trips.

• The engine and cooling system work harder to get rid of heat, especially in traffic and during long stops with the AC running.
• Heat speeds up the evaporation of battery fluid and the corrosion of its terminals, shortening its life even if it seems fine.
• Hot asphalt raises tire temperature and internal pressure, and magnifies the effect of any weakness or crack in them.
• Direct sun and dust affect the paint, dashboard, seats, and glass.
• Any small fault becomes more serious in summer, because breaking down on a highway at midday is unpleasant and can be dangerous.

 

How do you protect the engine and cooling system from the heat?

The cooling system is the first line of defence in summer, and neglecting it is one of the most common causes of costly breakdowns in this season.

• Check the coolant level in the reservoir with the engine cold, and never open the radiator cap while the engine is hot.
• Use the type of coolant recommended in the owner's manual rather than plain water, and learn about the difference between red and green radiator coolant before topping up or mixing.
• Look at the radiator hoses: cracking, swelling, or excessive softness are signs that they need replacing.
• Make sure the radiator fan runs when the temperature rises or the AC is on, and clean insects and dust off the front of the radiator.
• Keep an eye on the temperature gauge on the dashboard; if it rises repeatedly, read about the main causes of car engine overheating and deal with the cause early.
• Stick to the engine oil change schedule in the owner's manual, as oil endures higher temperatures in summer and needs to be in good condition.

 

How is the heat linked to a weak battery, and how do you look after it?

Many people believe that batteries only struggle in winter, but summer heat speeds up their internal wear, and the weakness then appears suddenly at the first hard start.

• Have the battery tested by a technician or parts shop before summer, especially if it has been installed for a long time.
• Clean white or green corrosion off the terminals, and make sure the cables are tightened properly.
• Watch for a slow-cranking starter or dim lights, as these are early signs of weakness.
• Try to park the car in the shade whenever possible, as this reduces the heat in the engine bay.
• To learn the signs in detail and ways to extend its life, see our article on car battery failure symptoms and how to extend its life.

 

How do you keep the AC working efficiently in summer?

In summer, the AC is not a luxury, and any weakness in it shows quickly as temperatures rise; servicing it early before the season is easier than repairing it at the peak.

• When getting into a car that has been parked in the sun, open the windows slightly for the first minute to let the hot air out, then close them and switch on the AC.
• Replace the cabin air filter on time, as a filter clogged with dust weakens airflow and causes an unpleasant smell.
• If the air becomes less cold than usual, the cause may be low refrigerant, a leak, or a weak condenser fan, and it needs a technical check.
• Pay attention to any strange noise when the compressor engages, or the engine stalling at idle with the AC on.
• To understand AC faults and how to fix them in detail, read our article on the car air conditioning system and its faults.

 

How do you protect the tires from hot asphalt?

The tire is the only part that touches the hot asphalt directly, so it needs closer monitoring in summer, especially before a trip.

• Check the air pressure in the morning when the tires are cold, and set it to the value on the driver's door sticker.
• Do not let air out of a tire because it is hot after driving; the rise in pressure with heat is normal and accounted for.
• Check the sidewalls for cracks or bulges, as old rubber is affected more by sun and heat.
• Check the manufacturing date printed on the tire's sidewall, and consult a technician if the tire is old even if the tread looks good.
• Do not exceed the car's permitted load on summer trips, as overloading raises tire temperature.
• Do not forget to check the spare tire and the tools for changing it before any long trip.

 

How do you protect the paint and cabin from the sun?

Strong sunlight affects the car's appearance and value over time, and simple daily protection is better than repairs later.

• Park the car in the shade or under a canopy whenever possible, and use a suitable cover when parking for long periods.
• Place a sunshade on the windscreen to reduce cabin heat and protect the dashboard from cracking.
• Suitable window tint reduces the heat inside the cabin and protects the seats; learn about how the right window tint protects your car.
• Wash the car early in the morning or in the evening, and do not wash it while the surface is hot in the sun, so water spots do not remain.
• Rinse the dust off with water first after sandstorms, and do not wipe it off dry so it does not scratch the paint.
• Do not leave lighters, aerosol cans, plastic water bottles, or electronic devices inside the car, as extreme heat may damage them or make them dangerous.

 

What should you do if your car overheats while driving?

If you notice the temperature gauge rising or steam coming from the front of the car, acting calmly and quickly reduces the damage to the engine.

1. Switch off the AC immediately; you can temporarily run the heater at its highest setting to draw some heat away from the engine.
2. Stop in a safe place away from the traffic lanes, and switch on the hazard lights.
3. Turn off the engine if the gauge keeps rising or steam appears, and do not keep driving with the gauge in the red zone.
4. Do not open the radiator cap or the coolant reservoir while the engine is hot, and wait until it has cooled down completely.
5. Once the engine has cooled, check the coolant level and look for an obvious leak, then head to the nearest workshop or call for help.

 

Frequently asked questions about summer car care

• Does running the AC all the time harm the engine? No, if the cooling system is in good condition, but it adds load on the engine and battery, which is why maintenance matters more in summer.
• Should I change the engine oil earlier in summer? Follow the schedule in the owner's manual, and use the severe-conditions schedule, if there is one, if you drive a lot in traffic and extreme heat.
• Can I put plain water in the radiator when necessary? Only in an emergency and to reach the nearest workshop, then refill the system with the recommended coolant.
• Can tires burst because of the heat? Heat alone does not usually cause this, but it multiplies the risk of underinflated, old, or cracked tires.
• When should I check the car before a summer trip? A few days before the trip, so there is enough time to fix any issue with the cooling system, tires, or battery.

 

Summer in Saudi Arabia is a real test for every car, but most of its breakdowns start with small signs that can be noticed early. Review the cooling system, battery, tires, and AC before the peak of the heat, protect the paint and cabin from the sun, and never ignore the temperature gauge or any strange noise; with these simple habits, the summer months pass without surprises on the road.

To read a fuel economy label, start with the km/L value: the number of kilometres the car travels on one litre of fuel. The higher the number, the more economical the car. Next, make sure the label belongs to the exact model, model year and engine capacity you intend to buy, verify it through the Taakad app, and then divide your annual distance by the figure to estimate how many litres you will need each year. This guide explains the label's fields, how to compare and calculate with an illustrative example, and why your car's real-world consumption may differ from the printed figure.

What is a vehicle fuel economy label?

A fuel economy label is a sticker you will find on new cars. It shows the model's fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, together with a level that rates this value. According to the Saudi Press Agency report on the Letabqa energy conservation campaign, the label classifies cars into seven levels: Excellent+, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Average, Poor and Very Poor. The top levels appear in dark green and the lowest in red.

There are two types of label, depending on how the vehicle is used: one for passenger cars such as sedans and minivans, and one for light trucks such as four-wheel drives, pickups and cargo vans. Pay attention to the label type when comparing, and compare cars of similar size and use wherever possible.

 

What information does the fuel economy label show?

The label combines the vehicle's basic information with its fuel economy result. According to the same source, it includes:

• The manufacturer's name and the vehicle's trade name (model).
• Engine capacity and model year.
• Vehicle type: passenger car or light truck.
• The fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, and its corresponding level.
• The required fuel type: 91 petrol, 95 petrol or diesel.
• The logo of the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization (SASO), the label's regulatory statement, and a QR code.

Before focusing on the number, match these fields with the car in front of you, especially the model year, engine capacity and fuel type. A single model may come with more than one engine or trim, and each may have a different value. Take a clear photo of every label so the details do not get mixed up if you visit several showrooms.

 

How do you read the km/L figure and compare two cars?

The km/L figure tells you how far the car travels on one litre. A value of 18 km/L, for example, means the car covers 18 kilometres per litre according to the label value. With this unit, the higher number is better. When comparing:

1. Read the value itself rather than relying on the colour alone; two cars at the same level may have different values.
2. Make sure both labels are of the same type, passenger car or light truck.
3. Pay attention to fuel type; if one car needs 95 petrol and the other 91 petrol, calculate each car's cost using the price of its own fuel.
4. Do not carry a value from one trim or engine to another version just because the trade name or exterior looks the same.
5. Treat fuel economy as one factor alongside space, comfort, safety and maintenance; our guide to the best fuel-efficient cars can help you narrow your options.

 

How do you verify the label with the Taakad app?

The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization provides the Taakad app for checking fuel economy label and energy efficiency label information, and it can be downloaded free for iOS and Android devices. The steps, as described on the app's page and in the previous source, are:

1. Open the app, choose the vehicles section, and point the camera at the QR code on the label.
2. If the vehicle is registered in SASO's database, its details will appear, such as manufacturer, engine capacity, model year, fuel type, body type, drive type, transmission, fuel economy value and level.
3. Compare the details shown in the app with the label on the car, field by field.
4. If there is no QR code on the label, use the app's search feature.
5. If the details do not match, use the report feature, which takes you to the Commercial Report app.

 

How do you calculate the fuel you need each year?

The formula is simple: annual distance in kilometres ÷ fuel economy in km/L = estimated fuel in litres. To estimate your annual distance accurately, compare the dashboard odometer readings on two service records about a year apart, or take a typical week's distance and multiply it by the number of weeks in a year, then add the trips you know you will make.

Illustrative example: an annual distance of 20,000 km and two cars, the first rated at 15 km/L and the second at 20 km/L. These are hypothetical teaching figures only, not specifications of cars offered for sale.

Item	First car	Second car
Assumed fuel economy	15 km/L	20 km/L
Annual distance	20,000 km	20,000 km
Calculation	20,000 ÷ 15	20,000 ÷ 20
Estimated quantity	About 1,333 litres	1,000 litres

The difference in this example is about 333 litres a year. To turn it into an amount of money, multiply each car's quantity by the price per litre of the fuel it needs at the time of comparison, then subtract the two results.

 

How do you convert km/L to litres per 100 km?

Some brochures, websites and dashboard displays show consumption in litres per 100 km, where the lower number is better. To convert, divide 100 by the km/L value; to convert back, divide 100 by the L/100 km value:

• 15 km/L: 100 ÷ 15 = about 6.67 litres per 100 km.
• 20 km/L: 100 ÷ 20 = 5 litres per 100 km.
• In reverse: 5 litres per 100 km means 100 ÷ 5 = 20 km/L.

This unit reveals something many people overlook: the same increase in km/L saves more fuel when the starting value is low. In another illustrative example over 20,000 km, moving from 10 to 12 km/L saves about 333 litres, while moving from 20 to 22 km/L saves only about 91 litres. Do not compare a km/L figure with a figure in another unit, such as miles per gallon, before converting to the same unit.

 

Why does your real consumption differ from the label figure?

The label figure is a reference value that helps you compare models, but it does not describe your own driving style or road conditions. The main things that change real-world consumption are:

• Driving style: sudden acceleration and braking, and high speeds on highways.
• Heavy traffic and frequent stops, and leaving the engine running for long periods while parked.
• Running the air conditioning for long periods in summer heat.
• Excess load and low tyre pressure.
• Maintenance condition, such as the air filter, spark plugs and engine oil.

Use the label for an initial comparison, then monitor your car's consumption over several refills. If consumption rises clearly and persistently above your usual level, read about the common causes of higher fuel consumption and arrange an inspection when needed, rather than assuming the label is wrong. If your car offers an economy driving mode, learn about the ECO system and whether it really saves fuel.

 

How do you measure your car's consumption yourself?

The most accurate home method is the full-tank method, and all you need is the dashboard trip meter and your fuel receipt:

1. Fill the tank until the pump nozzle clicks off automatically, then reset the trip meter.
2. Drive the car as usual until you need to refuel.
3. Fill the tank again until the automatic click-off, and note the litres added and the distance on the trip meter.
4. Divide the distance by the litres; if, for example, you drove 500 km and added 40 litres, your consumption is 12.5 km/L.
5. Repeat over several refills and in different conditions, in the city and on the highway, then take the average.

The consumption reading on the trip computer is useful for daily monitoring, but it is an estimate and may differ slightly from the manual calculation, so rely on the manual calculation for long-term comparison.

 

Frequently asked questions about the fuel economy label

1. Is a higher number on the label always better? Yes when the unit is km/L; with litres per 100 km, the lower number is better.
2. Does the label guarantee the consumption I will get? No. It is a value for comparison, and your real consumption depends on driving style, roads, load and the car's condition.
3. Does a larger tank mean better economy? No. Tank capacity determines the distance between refills, while fuel economy describes distance per litre.
4. Can I compare a sedan with a four-wheel drive using the label? The unit is the same, so you can compare the two values, but each has a different label type, and the fairest comparison is between cars of similar size and use.
5. What should I do if the label does not match the Taakad app? Ask the seller for an explanation, and use the app's report feature if the difference remains.

The fuel economy label is a quick comparison tool if you read it in the right order: match the details, verify them through the Taakad app, then turn the figure into litres that fit your distance. When you compare cars at Saleh Cars Group, ask for the label of the version that interests you and calculate your own needs before deciding.