Car Brand Logos and Names: A Guide to Badges in Saudi Arabia

To get real value from a test drive before buying a car, ask to drive the same trim you plan to buy, and drive it on a route similar to your daily journeys: streets with speed bumps and traffic lights, a stretch of highway, and a place to park. Test the air conditioning, visibility, noise and family seating, and record your notes under the same items for every car. Budget, trims and the contract are covered in the new car buying guide.

How do you prepare for a test drive before visiting the showroom?

A successful test drive starts before you sit behind the wheel; good preparation makes you test what matters to you, not whatever catches your attention in the moment.

1. Write a short description of how you will use the car: city journeys, a daily highway commute, intercity travel, passengers in the rear seats, or a tight parking space at home.
2. Choose three priorities you will not compromise on, such as back comfort, easy parking and strong cooling, and make them the focus of your assessment.
3. Ask the showroom in advance whether the model, trim and engine you are considering are available to test, how long the drive lasts, which route is available and which documents are required, and bring your driving licence.
4. If the test car is a different trim, ask the team to explain the differences in engine, equipment, and wheel and tyre size, because they affect how the car feels and how much noise you hear.
5. If you are comparing two cars, try to drive both on the same day and at a similar time, so the heat, traffic and road conditions are alike.

 

What should you check before the car moves?

Set aside a few minutes before driving off; much of what will bother you in everyday use shows up while the car is standing still.

• Adjust the seat, steering wheel and mirrors, and check that you can reach the pedals comfortably without stretching your leg or sitting too close.
• Stay seated for several minutes and notice whether the seat supports your back and thighs, or whether you keep changing position.
• Make sure the instruments and the dashboard screen are readable in sunlight, and that the screen does not reflect on the windscreen.
• Look at the front pillars and side sightlines: do they hide pedestrians or cars at junctions?
• Pair your phone and set a navigation destination while parked, and try the air conditioning controls without looking at them for long.
• Before handing the car back, unpair your phone and delete your data from the infotainment system.

 

What is the right route for a test drive?

If the showroom's arrangements allow it, ask for a route that resembles your daily driving instead of circling the building, and always keep to the speed limit and the accompanying employee's instructions.

1. City streets with stop-and-go traffic: notice how smoothly the car moves off, how the transmission shifts and how the accelerator responds.
2. Speed bumps and uneven asphalt: listen to the suspension, and notice whether the cabin shakes uncomfortably or the car absorbs bumps quietly.
3. A roundabout or a series of bends: notice the steering weight and feel, and how much the car leans in corners.
4. A stretch of highway: notice the car's stability, how easily it merges with traffic and overtakes, and the level of wind and tyre noise.
5. A U-turn in a permitted place: it shows you how easy the car is to manoeuvre in narrow streets.
6. Brakes: press them gradually as in normal use, and do not create a hazardous situation to test the brakes or driver assistance systems.

 

How do you test the air conditioning in Saudi heat during the drive?

Air conditioning is one of the most important things to test in the Kingdom's climate, but a short drive only gives a first impression and cannot prove cooling performance in every condition.

• If possible, try the car after it has been parked in the sun, which is closer to your real use than a car pre-cooled inside the showroom.
• Run the air conditioning at the setting you normally use, and notice when the air from the vents becomes cool and comfortable.
• Notice whether cooling stays good when stopped in traffic or at a signal, not only while moving.
• Ask about rear air vents, and ask your companion to assess the airflow reaching the rear seats.
• Raise the fan speed and listen to it, as some cabins become noisy at high settings.
• When comparing two cars, test the air conditioning in similar heat and at a similar time; otherwise, note the difference next to your observations.

 

How do you assess noise, visibility and parking?

These items are hard to judge from a specification sheet, but they become clear on a real drive.

• Noise: talk to your companion in a normal voice on the highway, and notice whether you have to raise your voice because of the tyres, wind or engine.
• Unusual sounds: if you hear a knock, squeak or vibration, ask about it and note it rather than diagnosing it yourself or treating it as a trait of every car of that model.
• Rear visibility: notice the size of the rear window and how clear the mirrors are, and whether you need to turn your head a lot when changing lanes.
• Camera and sensors: assess how clear the camera image is in strong sunlight, and how clear the sensor alerts are when approaching obstacles.
• Parking: try reverse and parallel parking in a safe, permitted place, and notice how easy it is to judge the car's corners.
• If your parking space at home is tight or its entrance is sloped, compare the car's published length and width with your space before the visit.

 

How do you test family seating and luggage space?

If the car is for the family, the opinion of whoever sits in the back matters as much as yours.

1. Set the driver's seat to your position, then sit behind it and notice the room left for knees and head.
2. Ask a family member to try getting in and out through the rear door, especially older relatives.
3. If you have children, ask about the child seat anchor points (ISOFIX) and try fitting the seat with the showroom's agreement.
4. In cars with a third row, try reaching it and folding the seats, and notice how much boot space remains.
5. Put the pushchair or a suitcase in the boot, as written dimensions become clearer when compared with your own belongings.

 

How do you compare two cars after the test drive?

Write down your notes as soon as you step out of the car, before impressions get mixed up, and use a notes sheet with the same items for each car, like the table below:

Item	What to notice	Example of a useful note
Seating position	Back comfort and ease of adjustment	Comfortable on the highway, but the seat is low for my mother
Visibility	Pillars, mirrors and rear window	The front pillar hides part of the roundabout
Transmission and acceleration	Smooth pull-away and overtaking	Calm pull-away, slight hesitation when overtaking
Brakes and steering	Pedal progression and steering weight	Progressive brakes, light steering when parking
Noise	Tyre and wind noise	Tyre noise is clear on rough asphalt
Air conditioning	Cooling speed and reach to the rear	Cold while moving, slightly weaker at the signal
Parking	Camera, sensors and judging corners	Clear camera, but the front end is hard to judge
Family and boot	Rear seats and luggage	The pushchair fitted in the boot with space to spare

Give each item a score from one to five with a short reason, and give your three priorities more weight than the rest.

• Do not judge by the total score alone; one car beating the other on an item you do not care about does not make up for weakness in a key priority.
• Record the test conditions: the time, the heat, the route and the trim you drove.
• If the two cars are close, ask for a second drive focused on the item that remains undecided.

 

What are the common mistakes on a test drive?

• Settling for a short loop around the showroom that does not resemble your daily driving.
• Driving a higher trim and assuming all its equipment comes with the trim you will buy.
• Getting distracted by conversation or the screen while driving instead of focusing on the road and the car.
• Comparing two cars driven in very different conditions without noting it.
• Deciding in the first rush of excitement before calmly reviewing your notes.

 

Frequently asked questions about test drives

1. How long should a test drive take? There is no fixed duration; what matters is that it is long enough for a route that resembles your use. A short drive may be enough to rule out a car, but it may not settle long-journey comfort.
2. Should I test a higher trim if I plan to buy the base trim? It can still be useful if you know the differences, so match the engine, equipment and wheel size to the trim you want before relying on your impressions.
3. Is a used car test drive different? Yes. In addition to the above, ask for the engine to be started cold, make sure the warning lights on the dashboard go out after starting, and do not rely on the drive alone; read our vehicle inspection tips before buying a used car.
4. Should I take someone with me on the drive? A companion can assess the rear seats and notice what you might miss, after checking the showroom's policy on passengers.
5. Do I have to decide on the same day? No. Review your notes once you are away from the showroom atmosphere, compare them with your priorities, then decide.

 

An organised test drive turns a general impression into information you can compare: prepare your priorities, choose a route that resembles your day, test the air conditioning, visibility, parking and family seats, and record everything under the same items. You can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to compare models and trims, and contact the team to ask whether a test drive of the trim you are interested in is possible.

A five-seat family car is usually enough if no more than five people ride with you regularly and the child seats you need install correctly in the rear seat, while a seven-seat car becomes the practical choice when your regular passengers exceed five or you often travel with relatives. Seat count alone does not settle the decision, though: boot (trunk) space, access to the back row and child-seat fitting all need to be tried in the actual car. This guide walks you through the choice, from counting passengers to a final checklist.

How do you work out how many seats your family needs?

Start with the number of passengers, not just the size of your family, and write down two clear scenarios to compare each car against:

• A normal day: the school run, commute and shopping, and who rides with you on most days.
• A longer trip: intercity travel or family visits, with suitcases, a pushchair and trip essentials.
• Regular passengers from outside your immediate family, such as relatives or a household helper, each of whom needs a seat and belt.
• How many child seats you need now, and what you may need over the next few years.

If the third row would be used only a few times a year, a five-seat car with a large boot may suit your daily life better, and bigger trips can be handled in other ways. If you would need it almost every week, put it at the top of your priorities.

 

What is the practical difference between five-seat and seven-seat cars?

The table below is a general comparison; details can differ greatly between models, so verify them in the car you are considering.

Aspect	Five seats	Seven seats
Passengers	Enough if regular passengers do not exceed five	Suits households with more than five regular passengers
Boot space	Fairly constant because the rear row does not change	Shrinks considerably with the third row up and grows when it is folded
Getting in and out	Simpler, with no extra row	Reaching the third row means folding or sliding a seat
Rear-row comfort	Usually seats three, though middle-seat comfort varies between cars	In many cars the third row suits children and short trips best
Size and parking	Usually smaller and easier in tight spaces	Usually longer and needs a wider parking space
Daily running	Usually lighter	Greater weight and size may raise fuel consumption

 

How do you test the third row before choosing seven seats?

1. Set the second row to a comfortable position for its occupants first, then sit in the third row; judging it with the second row pushed forward does not reflect real use.
2. Check knee room, foot room and headroom yourself, and notice whether a low floor pushes your knees up.
3. Try getting in and out and folding the second-row seat, and ask the child or person who will actually use the third row to try it.
4. Make sure every seat has an easily reachable seat belt and a suitable head restraint.
5. Look for rear air-conditioning vents for the third row and how they are controlled, and confirm they are fitted to the trim you will buy, not only the higher trim.
6. Ask how passengers reach the back when a child seat is installed in the second row, and do not assume the folding mechanism works with it fitted; check the vehicle manual and the child-seat instructions.

The second row may be a single bench for three passengers or two separate captain's chairs with a walkway between them; separate chairs make it easier to reach the back, but they reduce total seating by one compared with a bench.

 

Does the boot hold your belongings with every seat in use?

Luggage space with the third row folded answers a completely different question from the space available with the whole family on board, so compare both configurations:

• Raise every seat you will need on a family trip, then load your actual belongings, or their measurements, into the boot.
• Try fitting a folded pushchair, a large suitcase and the weekly shopping.
• Notice the height of the loading lip, how easily items can be lifted in and how much room the tailgate needs to open in your parking space at home.
• Check the maximum payload in the owner's manual or on the label fixed to the vehicle, and secure luggage as instructed, because a car full of passengers and belongings may approach this limit.
• If you are considering a roof rack, ask specifically about the permitted roof load.

 

How do you make sure your child seats fit the car?

The US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recommends choosing a seat that suits the child's age and size, then making sure it fits the vehicle itself, and referring to the car-seat manufacturer's instructions and the vehicle owner's manual on installing it with the seat belt or the lower anchors and a top tether, if available. In practice this means:

• Use the vehicle manual to identify the seating positions intended for child seats, and do not assume every rear seat has identical anchor points.
• If you need two or three child seats, try installing them together in their actual arrangement, and make sure each one can be secured and used correctly.
• Make sure the other passengers can still reach their belts and buckles once the seats are fitted.
• Do not rely on an anchoring-system logo in an advert; it does not mean your particular seat will fit that position.

 

Which comfort details do many buyers overlook?

• Sit in the back for a few minutes with the air conditioning on, and check that air reaches every row in hot summer weather.
• Assess the step height for older passengers and children, and how wide the rear doors open in tight parking spaces.
• Check the view from the rear windows and whether there are sunshades for the rear windows if you need them.
• Look for charging ports, cup holders and small-item storage for each row.
• During the test drive, ask passengers to judge the seating, noise level and stability on the road from their own seats, not just from the driver's seat.

We cover the general steps of a test drive and comparing trims in our new car buying guide; here, what matters is testing the car from your own family's seats.

 

How does a family car's size affect daily use and running costs?

• Measure your home parking space and driveway, and make sure the car's length and tailgate opening suit them.
• Try parking in a busy or tight car park, and check that the chosen trim has a rear camera and parking sensors.
• A bigger, heavier car may use more fuel; if economy matters to you, review our list of the best fuel-efficient cars when comparing.
• Ask about the tyre size and the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, as both are recurring ownership costs.

 

What is the short checklist before you decide?

• Every regular passenger has a suitable, easily reachable seat and belt.
• The child seats you need install in the correct positions according to the instructions.
• Your essential belongings fit in the boot with the necessary seats still upright.
• The rear air conditioning and comfort features you need are included in the chosen trim.
• The car's dimensions suit your home parking space and the places you drive to every day.
• The periodic maintenance schedule, tyre size and warranty terms are written down and clear before purchase.

After you buy, keeping up with routine car maintenance helps keep your family comfortable and safe on long trips.

 

Frequently asked questions about choosing a family car

Is every seven-seat car suitable for seven adults on a trip?

Not necessarily; in many cars the third row suits children or short journeys best. Have an adult sit in it, and check boot space and payload limits with all seven passengers and their belongings.

Can three child seats fit in a five-seat car?

It depends on the width of the rear seat, the number of anchor points and the size of the seats themselves. Check the vehicle manual and try installing all three seats together before buying.

Are two separate second-row seats better than a bench?

Separate seats make it easier to reach the third row and give their occupants more comfort, but they reduce total seating by one compared with a bench, so choose according to your passenger count.

Can a car's exterior size tell you how spacious it is inside?

Not on its own; the seating layout, floor height and boot opening shape all affect the usable space, so try sitting in the car and loading your belongings yourself.

When is a five-seat car enough for a large family?

When regular passengers on most journeys do not exceed five, and trips needing more seats are rare and can be handled in another way.

 

The right family car is the one that serves both your normal day and your longer trips, not the one with the most seats. Count your passengers, try the third row, child seats and your own belongings, then compare the results calmly. You can also browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to compare options that suit your passenger count.

Should you buy your car in cash or with financing? Paying cash usually means you pay the lowest total amount and own the car immediately with no monthly commitments, but it can drain your savings. Financing lets you get the car now and spread its price over installments, but what you pay in the end is usually higher because of the financing cost and fees. The right decision depends on your savings, the stability of your income, and the total cost of each option, not on the monthly installment alone. In this article we compare the two methods and explain how to calculate the cost, compare offers, and read the contract before signing.

What is the difference between buying a car in cash and with financing?

When you buy in cash, you pay the full price of the car at the time of purchase and the financial relationship with the seller ends. When you buy with financing or installments, you pay part of the price as a down payment, the rest is split into monthly installments over a period set by the contract, and the financing cost is added to it.

• Cash: one amount paid once, with no monthly installments and no financing cost.
• Financing: a down payment smaller than the car's price, followed by monthly installments that are usually fixed until the end of the term.
• Some finance contracts include a final payment larger than the installments at the end of the term; it lowers the monthly installment but does not cancel the amount.
• In both cases, you still carry the same running costs, such as fuel, insurance, and scheduled maintenance.

 

What are the pros and cons of buying a car in cash?

• You usually pay the lowest possible total, because you carry no financing cost or related fees.
• You own the car immediately and can sell or trade it in whenever you like without going back to any party.
• There is no monthly commitment putting pressure on your budget if your income changes or unexpected expenses come up.
• Paying cash may give you a better chance to negotiate, or to benefit from cash-payment offers if available.
• On the other hand, buying in cash can drain your savings and leave you without enough of an emergency reserve.
• The amount you have may also push you toward a car that is less than you need, or make you delay the purchase until your savings are complete.

 

What are the pros and cons of buying a car with financing?

• You get the car now without waiting until you have saved its full price.
• You keep part of your savings for emergencies or other priorities in your life.
• The price is spread over installments known in advance, making it easier to plan your monthly budget.
• On the other hand, the total you pay is higher than the car's cash price in most cases, because of the financing cost and fees.
• The installment commits you for years, and any change in your income can turn it into a heavy burden.
• Financing may require a certain type of insurance throughout the term, and there may be restrictions on selling the car before full payment, depending on the contract.

 

How do you calculate the total cost of the car in both cases?

Do not compare the cash price with the monthly installment; compare the total amount that will come out of your pocket with each option.

1. For cash: add the car's price to the registration fees, the extras you will buy, and the cost of insurance.
2. For financing: add the down payment, the monthly installment multiplied by the number of months, the final payment if any, the administrative fees, and the cost of insurance for the whole term of the contract.
3. Subtract the car's cash price from the financing total; the difference is the real cost of getting the car now instead of waiting.
4. Add the expected running costs of fuel and maintenance; they are similar under both options, but they affect your ability to pay the installment. If fuel consumption matters for your budget, check our list of the best fuel-efficient cars.
5. Work out how much of your savings will remain after each option, and make sure it is enough for emergencies.

 

How do you compare car finance offers?

1. Ask each provider for a written offer for the same car, with the same term and the same down payment, so the comparison is fair.
2. Compare the total amount paid and the overall financing cost, and do not settle for comparing the monthly installment.
3. Ask about all fees linked to the contract, such as administrative fees, the cost of insurance, and any other charges.
4. Pay attention to the effect of the term: a longer term lowers the installment, but it usually raises the total you pay.
5. Pay attention to the effect of the down payment and the final payment on both the installment and the total amount.
6. Ask about early settlement terms and the possibility of paying off the remaining amount before the end of the term.
7. Check the current car offers, as some offers include special benefits on financing or on cash payment.

 

What should you read in the finance contract before signing?

1. The car details in the contract: model, trim, model year, color, and VIN when available, and that they match what you agreed on.
2. The down payment amount, the number of installments, the value and due date of each installment, and the final payment if any.
3. The total amount you will pay until the end of the contract, clearly written.
4. What happens if an installment is late or you default on payments, and the consequences of that.
5. Insurance terms: its type, who bears its cost, and who receives the compensation in the event of an accident.
6. When ownership of the car passes to you, and whether you can sell or trade it in before the contract ends.
7. Early settlement terms and any fees or discounts linked to it.
8. Do not sign any paper with blank spaces, ask about every clause you do not understand, and keep a full copy of the contract and the installment schedule.

 

When is cash better for you, and when is financing better?

• Cash is better if you have the car's price available and still keep enough of an emergency reserve afterwards.
• Cash is also better if you prefer not to commit to installments, or if your income is not steady.
• Financing is better if you need the car now for your work or your family and do not want to drain all your savings.
• Financing suits you if your income is stable and the installment leaves comfortable room in your budget for fuel, maintenance, and emergencies.
• There is a middle option: a larger down payment from your savings with a shorter term, which lowers the total financing cost without draining everything you have.
• If your budget is limited either way, consider a less expensive car or a used car in good condition; before that, read our important tips before buying a used car.

 

What are the common mistakes when buying a car with financing?

• Choosing the car based only on the monthly installment, without calculating the total amount.
• Stretching the finance term to lower the installment, then paying a larger total in the end.
• Ignoring the final payment and not preparing for it as the end of the contract approaches.
• Forgetting the costs of insurance, fuel, and maintenance when working out your ability to pay.
• Putting all your savings into the down payment and leaving no emergency reserve.
• Signing quickly under the pressure of an offer, without reading the contract or comparing other offers.

 

Frequently asked questions about buying a car in cash or with financing

1. Is financing always more expensive than cash? Usually yes, because of the financing cost and fees, but some promotional offers may narrow the gap, so compare the total amount in each case.
2. Is a larger down payment better? It reduces the amount financed, and therefore usually reduces the installment and the financing cost, as long as it does not drain your emergency reserve.
3. Can I pay off the financing before the end of the term? That depends on the contract terms, so ask about early settlement and any fees or discounts linked to it before signing.
4. Can I sell a financed car before the installments end? The contract determines this, and it usually requires settling the remaining amount first or getting the finance provider's approval.
5. What matters more when comparing: the installment or the total amount? The total amount matters most; then make sure the installment fits comfortably in your monthly budget.

 

There is no single best option for everyone; cash saves you the financing cost, and installments give you flexibility. Calculate the total amount in both cases, keep an emergency reserve for yourself, and read the whole contract before signing. Once you have set your budget, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and choose what suits your needs.

Car spare parts fall into three main types: genuine parts (dealer parts) that carry the carmaker's brand or are made by its supplier to the same specification, aftermarket parts made by other companies with varying quality, and used parts from salvage yards (tashleeh) removed from other cars, while counterfeit parts that imitate the look and brand of genuine parts should be avoided completely. The practical rule: choose genuine or trusted high-quality aftermarket parts for safety items such as brakes, steering, suspension, airbags and tyres, accept good aftermarket parts for consumables like filters, wipers and bulbs, and always confirm the part number, keep the invoice and have the part fitted at a qualified workshop.

What are the types of car spare parts and how do they differ?

Parts may look alike, but they differ in their maker, specification and source; the table below summarises the types found in shops and workshops:

Type	What it means	What sets it apart	What to watch for
Genuine (dealer)	A part carrying the carmaker's brand, sold through the dealer or its distributors	Matches factory specifications and has a clear source	Usually costs more and may need to be ordered
Original supplier (OES)	A part made by the supplier that supplies the carmaker, sold in its own box and brand	May match the genuine part's specifications	Do not assume a match; ask and compare the part number
Aftermarket	A part made by other companies to fit several models	More choice and often lower cost	Quality varies widely by manufacturer
Used (salvage)	A part removed from another car, possibly genuine originally	A solution for rare or discontinued parts	Unknown age and history, and it may carry no warranty
Counterfeit	A part that imitates the look, box and brand of the genuine part	No real advantage; the tempting price is the bait	A safety risk and commercial fraud

The Technical Regulation for Auto Spare Parts issued by the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization defines original parts as parts designed and manufactured to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications, made either by the vehicle manufacturer itself or by a manufacturer working to the same specification and quality control system, while commercial parts are replacement parts made to international standards, country-of-origin standards or the parts manufacturer's own standards, so that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's performance requirements.

Because market terms are not standardised, and some sellers use the word genuine or the abbreviation OEM for parts that do not come from the dealer, ask clearly: who made the part? What is its number? What warranty does it carry?

 

Which parts should be genuine or high quality?

Some parts are what stops the car, steers it or protects you in a crash, and they can fail suddenly. For these parts, do not make price the first criterion; choose genuine or an aftermarket part from a known manufacturer that meets the carmaker's specifications:

• Brakes: pads, discs and hoses; use brake fluid of the specification stated in the owner's manual, and you can review the types of brake fluid and the uses of each type.
• Steering: the steering rack, tie rods and their ends, since any play or breakage directly affects control of the car.
• Suspension: shock absorbers, control arms and ball joints, which affect the car's stability and grip; poor ones may wear quickly or break.
• Airbags and seat belts: do not buy them from an unknown source, and leave their inspection and replacement to a specialist technician.
• Tyres: buy them new from a trusted source in the size, load index and speed rating recommended for your car, and check their manufacture date.

The same applies to parts whose failure can cause major damage to the engine or gearbox, such as the timing belt, where fitted, and the water pump.

 

When are aftermarket parts a reasonable choice?

An aftermarket part is not necessarily poor, as quality varies from one manufacturer to another, and it is often a reasonable choice for consumables that are replaced periodically and are easy to check, such as:

• Oil, air and cabin filters: choose a filter that matches the size and specification, and learn the signs that your car needs a new air filter.
• Wipers and bulbs: check the wiper length and the bulb base type and wattage suitable for your car.
• Spark plugs: their type and specifications must match what the carmaker specifies, so read about spark plug types and when to replace them.
• Interior trim and plastic covers that do not affect safety.

In every case, insist on three things: a known manufacturer with clear data on the box, a part number that matches yours or is an approved replacement for it, and a seller who gives you an invoice. Because these parts follow fixed intervals, tie their purchase to your periodic car maintenance schedule instead of waiting until they fail.

 

Are used salvage parts a safe choice?

Salvage parts may be genuine originally, but they carry the age and usage of the car they came from, so they suit some cases and not others:

• Often suitable: exterior body parts such as fenders, mirrors and covers, cabin parts, and rare or discontinued parts, after confirming their condition and fit.
• Not suitable: wearing brake, steering and suspension parts, airbags and seat belts, tyres of unknown age, and filters and rubber parts.
• Engine or gearbox: do not buy either without a technical inspection; ask about its source and about a trial or return period, and record its number on the invoice.

Before buying, inspect the part yourself: signs of impact, welding or rust, signs of flooding or fire, or cracks in rubber and plastic, and match its number with your part's number.

 

How do you spot counterfeit spare parts?

A counterfeit copies the look, box and brand of the genuine part but not its specification, and may seem convincing at first glance. Warning signs include:

• The box: faded printing or unusual colours, spelling mistakes, a poorly made logo, a broken seal, or missing manufacturer name, country of manufacture and part number.
• The part itself: a rough finish, noticeably lighter weight than the old part, a missing engraved number and logo, or a different shape and mounting points.
• The price: a price far below the market for a part offered as genuine.
• The seller: a shop that gives no invoice, does not name the manufacturer and country of manufacture, or refuses returns if the part does not fit.
• Verification codes: if the box carries a verification code or security label from the manufacturer, check it through the manufacturer's official channels.

The same regulation requires each package to show the manufacturer's name or trademark, the country of origin, and the part's designation or number as classified in the manufacturer's catalogue; missing data is a warning sign in itself.

 

How do you confirm the part number before buying?

The part number is the most precise way to make sure a part fits your car, because parts for the same model can differ by model year, trim and engine type.

1. Photograph the part number engraved or labelled on the old part if it is visible.
2. Have the vehicle identification number (VIN) from your registration card ready, as it helps the dealer and shops identify the correct part.
3. Ask the dealer for the original part number, then compare any aftermarket alternative with it, as many aftermarket manufacturers list the original numbers their parts correspond to.
4. If you are told the part has a newer replacement number, ask for proof that it is an approved replacement for the old number.
5. Compare the new part with the old one before fitting: dimensions, mounting points and connections.

 

What should you ask of the seller and the workshop?

Proper paperwork and correct fitting matter as much as the part itself:

• A detailed invoice stating the part name, number and type (genuine, aftermarket or used), the country of manufacture, and any warranty and return terms.
• Old parts: ask the workshop to return them to you or show them to you, so you can confirm the replacement was actually made.
• Warranty: the seller's warranty on the part is different from the carmaker's warranty on the car; if your car is under warranty, read its terms or ask the dealer before fitting non-genuine parts or servicing elsewhere, and keep all invoices.
• A qualified workshop: brake, steering and suspension parts need the right tools and tightening torque, some require bleeding the brakes or a wheel alignment after fitting, and airbags need a specialist technician.
• After fitting: test the car with the technician, and make sure no warning lights appear on the dashboard and there are no strange noises.

 

Frequently asked questions about car spare parts

1. Are aftermarket parts always lower quality? No, their quality varies by manufacturer; some come close to genuine and some are poor. What matters is the manufacturer's reputation, matching the specification and the part number, not the word aftermarket alone.
2. Does fitting a non-genuine part void the car's warranty? It depends on your car's warranty terms, so do not assume the answer; check the warranty booklet or ask the dealer before fitting, and keep the part and workshop invoices.
3. Should I buy spare parts online? You can, from known stores that clearly state the manufacturer, the part number and the return policy, while being wary of very low prices for parts offered as genuine.
4. Can I fit an airbag from a salvage yard? We do not recommend it, because you know neither its history nor its condition, and it is one of the most important means of protection in a crash; ask for a new part suitable for your car, and leave fitting to a specialist technician.
5. What should I do if I discover a part is counterfeit? Stop using it if it is a safety part, keep it and the invoice, and go back to the seller. If you suspect commercial fraud, you can report it through the official channels of the Ministry of Commerce; procedures may be updated, so confirm the latest steps on its official platforms.

 

The difference between genuine, aftermarket and used parts lies in the specification, the source and the paperwork, not the name: choose the best for safety parts, use good aftermarket parts for consumables, treat salvage parts with caution, and avoid counterfeits completely. To plan your car's maintenance, read how to choose the right maintenance to cut car costs and faults.

To read a fuel economy label, start with the km/L value: the number of kilometres the car travels on one litre of fuel. The higher the number, the more economical the car. Next, make sure the label belongs to the exact model, model year and engine capacity you intend to buy, verify it through the Taakad app, and then divide your annual distance by the figure to estimate how many litres you will need each year. This guide explains the label's fields, how to compare and calculate with an illustrative example, and why your car's real-world consumption may differ from the printed figure.

What is a vehicle fuel economy label?

A fuel economy label is a sticker you will find on new cars. It shows the model's fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, together with a level that rates this value. According to the Saudi Press Agency report on the Letabqa energy conservation campaign, the label classifies cars into seven levels: Excellent+, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Average, Poor and Very Poor. The top levels appear in dark green and the lowest in red.

There are two types of label, depending on how the vehicle is used: one for passenger cars such as sedans and minivans, and one for light trucks such as four-wheel drives, pickups and cargo vans. Pay attention to the label type when comparing, and compare cars of similar size and use wherever possible.

 

What information does the fuel economy label show?

The label combines the vehicle's basic information with its fuel economy result. According to the same source, it includes:

• The manufacturer's name and the vehicle's trade name (model).
• Engine capacity and model year.
• Vehicle type: passenger car or light truck.
• The fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, and its corresponding level.
• The required fuel type: 91 petrol, 95 petrol or diesel.
• The logo of the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization (SASO), the label's regulatory statement, and a QR code.

Before focusing on the number, match these fields with the car in front of you, especially the model year, engine capacity and fuel type. A single model may come with more than one engine or trim, and each may have a different value. Take a clear photo of every label so the details do not get mixed up if you visit several showrooms.

 

How do you read the km/L figure and compare two cars?

The km/L figure tells you how far the car travels on one litre. A value of 18 km/L, for example, means the car covers 18 kilometres per litre according to the label value. With this unit, the higher number is better. When comparing:

1. Read the value itself rather than relying on the colour alone; two cars at the same level may have different values.
2. Make sure both labels are of the same type, passenger car or light truck.
3. Pay attention to fuel type; if one car needs 95 petrol and the other 91 petrol, calculate each car's cost using the price of its own fuel.
4. Do not carry a value from one trim or engine to another version just because the trade name or exterior looks the same.
5. Treat fuel economy as one factor alongside space, comfort, safety and maintenance; our guide to the best fuel-efficient cars can help you narrow your options.

 

How do you verify the label with the Taakad app?

The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization provides the Taakad app for checking fuel economy label and energy efficiency label information, and it can be downloaded free for iOS and Android devices. The steps, as described on the app's page and in the previous source, are:

1. Open the app, choose the vehicles section, and point the camera at the QR code on the label.
2. If the vehicle is registered in SASO's database, its details will appear, such as manufacturer, engine capacity, model year, fuel type, body type, drive type, transmission, fuel economy value and level.
3. Compare the details shown in the app with the label on the car, field by field.
4. If there is no QR code on the label, use the app's search feature.
5. If the details do not match, use the report feature, which takes you to the Commercial Report app.

 

How do you calculate the fuel you need each year?

The formula is simple: annual distance in kilometres ÷ fuel economy in km/L = estimated fuel in litres. To estimate your annual distance accurately, compare the dashboard odometer readings on two service records about a year apart, or take a typical week's distance and multiply it by the number of weeks in a year, then add the trips you know you will make.

Illustrative example: an annual distance of 20,000 km and two cars, the first rated at 15 km/L and the second at 20 km/L. These are hypothetical teaching figures only, not specifications of cars offered for sale.

Item	First car	Second car
Assumed fuel economy	15 km/L	20 km/L
Annual distance	20,000 km	20,000 km
Calculation	20,000 ÷ 15	20,000 ÷ 20
Estimated quantity	About 1,333 litres	1,000 litres

The difference in this example is about 333 litres a year. To turn it into an amount of money, multiply each car's quantity by the price per litre of the fuel it needs at the time of comparison, then subtract the two results.

 

How do you convert km/L to litres per 100 km?

Some brochures, websites and dashboard displays show consumption in litres per 100 km, where the lower number is better. To convert, divide 100 by the km/L value; to convert back, divide 100 by the L/100 km value:

• 15 km/L: 100 ÷ 15 = about 6.67 litres per 100 km.
• 20 km/L: 100 ÷ 20 = 5 litres per 100 km.
• In reverse: 5 litres per 100 km means 100 ÷ 5 = 20 km/L.

This unit reveals something many people overlook: the same increase in km/L saves more fuel when the starting value is low. In another illustrative example over 20,000 km, moving from 10 to 12 km/L saves about 333 litres, while moving from 20 to 22 km/L saves only about 91 litres. Do not compare a km/L figure with a figure in another unit, such as miles per gallon, before converting to the same unit.

 

Why does your real consumption differ from the label figure?

The label figure is a reference value that helps you compare models, but it does not describe your own driving style or road conditions. The main things that change real-world consumption are:

• Driving style: sudden acceleration and braking, and high speeds on highways.
• Heavy traffic and frequent stops, and leaving the engine running for long periods while parked.
• Running the air conditioning for long periods in summer heat.
• Excess load and low tyre pressure.
• Maintenance condition, such as the air filter, spark plugs and engine oil.

Use the label for an initial comparison, then monitor your car's consumption over several refills. If consumption rises clearly and persistently above your usual level, read about the common causes of higher fuel consumption and arrange an inspection when needed, rather than assuming the label is wrong. If your car offers an economy driving mode, learn about the ECO system and whether it really saves fuel.

 

How do you measure your car's consumption yourself?

The most accurate home method is the full-tank method, and all you need is the dashboard trip meter and your fuel receipt:

1. Fill the tank until the pump nozzle clicks off automatically, then reset the trip meter.
2. Drive the car as usual until you need to refuel.
3. Fill the tank again until the automatic click-off, and note the litres added and the distance on the trip meter.
4. Divide the distance by the litres; if, for example, you drove 500 km and added 40 litres, your consumption is 12.5 km/L.
5. Repeat over several refills and in different conditions, in the city and on the highway, then take the average.

The consumption reading on the trip computer is useful for daily monitoring, but it is an estimate and may differ slightly from the manual calculation, so rely on the manual calculation for long-term comparison.

 

Frequently asked questions about the fuel economy label

1. Is a higher number on the label always better? Yes when the unit is km/L; with litres per 100 km, the lower number is better.
2. Does the label guarantee the consumption I will get? No. It is a value for comparison, and your real consumption depends on driving style, roads, load and the car's condition.
3. Does a larger tank mean better economy? No. Tank capacity determines the distance between refills, while fuel economy describes distance per litre.
4. Can I compare a sedan with a four-wheel drive using the label? The unit is the same, so you can compare the two values, but each has a different label type, and the fairest comparison is between cars of similar size and use.
5. What should I do if the label does not match the Taakad app? Ask the seller for an explanation, and use the app's report feature if the difference remains.

The fuel economy label is a quick comparison tool if you read it in the right order: match the details, verify them through the Taakad app, then turn the figure into litres that fit your distance. When you compare cars at Saleh Cars Group, ask for the label of the version that interests you and calculate your own needs before deciding.

To check traffic violations in Saudi Arabia, open the Query Traffic Violations page on the Absher platform and enter your ID number together with the violation number or your date of birth. To pay, sign in to the Efaa platform through the National Single Sign-On, choose the violations you want to pay, then pay through the SADAD system, a mada card or a credit card. To object, use the Dispute Traffic Violations service that the Ministry of Interior provides online. These procedures may be updated from time to time, so confirm the latest steps on the official platform before you act.

What are traffic violations and who issues them?

Traffic violations are violations related to the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations. As the description of the dispute service on the National Platform explains, they are issued by the General Department of Traffic or by any other authority authorised to apply the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations. In practice, you deal with them through three main services:

• Inquiry: to find out which violations are registered against you, through the Query Traffic Violations page on the Absher platform.
• Payment: through the Efaa platform, as part of a Ministry of Finance service for paying government violations registered against individuals.
• Dispute: through the Dispute Traffic Violations service provided by the Ministry of Interior, if you have something showing that the violation is incorrect.

It helps to distinguish traffic violations from other government violations, such as Ministry of Transport violations or municipal violations, because each authority has its own services; you will find a summary in the table below.

 

How do you check traffic violations on Absher?

The Absher platform provides a dedicated page called Query Traffic Violations, which asks for specific search details. The steps usually go as follows:

1. Open the Query Traffic Violations page from the official Absher website.
2. Enter your ID number in its field.
3. Choose the search type: by violation number or by date of birth.
4. Enter the violation number or the date of birth, depending on the type you chose.
5. Complete the verification code shown on the page, then display the result.

If you want to see the violations registered against you by different government entities in one place, the Efaa platform steps start with signing in through the National Single Sign-On (Nafath) and then viewing the registered violations, which we explain in the next section.

 

How do you pay traffic violations through the Efaa platform?

The service for paying government violations registered against individuals enables citizens, residents and visitors to view and pay all the violations registered against them by government entities, including traffic, smoking, government fines and other violations. The service page on the National Platform lists the payment steps as follows:

1. Go to the Efaa platform.
2. Choose to sign in through the National Single Sign-On.
3. View the violations registered against you.
4. Select the violations you want to pay.
5. Continue to the electronic payment page.
6. Complete the payment through the SADAD system, a mada card or a credit card.

According to the service description, the platform aims to unify and simplify violation procedures through a single digital platform that the relevant entities are linked to, so violations are issued and managed centrally. The National Platform also states that the service itself is free, meaning there is no charge for using it; this does not mean the violation amount is waived.

 

How do you dispute a traffic violation?

The Dispute Traffic Violations service provided by the Ministry of Interior allows you to dispute traffic violations issued by the General Department of Traffic and any other authority authorised to apply the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations. The service is provided online through the web portal and the mobile apps, and its path as shown on the service page is:

1. Go to My Services.
2. Choose Traffic.
3. Choose Dispute Traffic Violations, then follow the instructions shown to complete the request.

We have not listed deadlines or detailed conditions for disputes here because they do not appear in the service description on the National Platform; read the conditions and instructions shown to you inside the service before submitting, and do not delay your dispute if you believe the violation is incorrect. Before you start, the following helps:

• Make sure the violation really concerns your vehicle or your licence, and that its details match what happened.
• Write the reason for your dispute clearly and briefly, stating facts rather than impressions.
• If you have documents that support your position, prepare them in advance, and provide the details the service asks for.
• Keep proof that you submitted the request until you receive the decision.

 

What is the difference between violation services on the official platforms?

Several entities register violations, and each service has a specific purpose. The table below summarises the services listed in the official sources we relied on:

Service	Entity or platform	What it lets you do
Query Traffic Violations	Absher platform	Search by ID number with the violation number or date of birth
Payment of government violations registered against individuals	Ministry of Finance through the Efaa platform	View violations registered by government entities and choose which to pay
Dispute Traffic Violations	Ministry of Interior	Dispute violations from the traffic department and authorities authorised to apply the Traffic Law
Violations inquiry at the Ministry of Transport	Ministry of Transport and Logistic Services	Display violation details by searching with the violation number or the identification number
Municipal violations inquiry	Qassim Region Municipality as an example	View registered violations and the details of each one after signing in through the National Single Sign-On

If a violation is registered with an entity other than the traffic department, look for that entity's inquiry service on the National Platform; for example, the Ministry of Transport and Logistic Services offers an inquiry through its web portal via the Ministry Services link and then the Violations Inquiry service in the list of inquiry services.

 

What are the most common causes of traffic violations you can avoid?

The best way to deal with violations is not to commit them in the first place, and most of their common causes can be avoided with simple habits that protect you and others on the road:

• Exceeding the speed limit: watch the road signs, because the limit changes between highways, inner streets and school areas, and cruise control helps you hold a steady speed on long roads.
• Not wearing a seat belt: make it a habit before moving off, for you and all passengers, however short the trip.
• Using the phone while driving: set navigation and calls before moving off, and leave messages until you stop in a safe, permitted place.
• Expired documents: track the expiry dates of your driving licence, the vehicle registration (istimara) and the insurance policy, and renew them before they are due.
• An expired periodic inspection: note its date in your phone calendar, and prepare the car beforehand with this checklist for preparing your car for the periodic inspection.
• Running a red light or stopping in prohibited places: slow down when approaching a signal, be ready to stop when it changes, and park only in permitted spaces.
• Neglecting the car's condition: make sure the lights and indicators work, and do not ignore warning lights; read about dashboard warning light meanings to know when to stop immediately.

Remember that driver assistance systems such as lane departure warning and adaptive cruise control help you, but they do not replace your attention, and they do not take over your responsibility to follow the rules.

 

What practical tips should you follow before paying or disputing?

• Check your violations regularly so they do not pile up without your knowledge.
• Read the details of each violation before deciding, then choose whether to pay it or dispute it.
• Reach the official platforms by typing their address yourself or through their official apps, and do not pay through links sent to you in messages from unknown sources.
• Do not share your verification code, login details or card details with anyone.
• Keep proof of payment until you are sure the violation status has been updated.
• If you face a technical problem, contact the entity that provides the service through its official channels.

 

Frequently asked questions about traffic violations

1. Do I need to visit a government office to settle a violation? Usually not; the inquiry, payment and dispute services mentioned are provided online through the official portals and apps, and the dispute service page shows a branches link for anyone who needs it.
2. Can I pay more than one violation at the same time? The Efaa platform steps include viewing the registered violations and then selecting the violations you want to pay before continuing to payment, so you decide what to pay.
3. Does the Efaa platform include non-traffic violations? Yes. The service description states that it covers traffic, smoking, government fines and other violations registered by government entities.
4. Can I dispute a traffic violation registered by an entity other than the traffic department? According to the service description, disputes cover traffic violations issued by the General Department of Traffic and any other authority authorised to apply the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations.
5. Who do I call if I face a problem? The service pages on the National Platform list the Ministry of Finance number 19990 for the payment service and the Ministry of Interior number 966114011111 for the dispute service, as well as each entity's official email address.

 

Dealing with traffic violations is easier than it looks: check them on Absher, pay them on the Efaa platform, dispute them through the Ministry of Interior service if you have a clear reason, and always review the updated steps on the official platforms. Most importantly, avoid their common causes from the start: keep to the speed limit, fasten your seat belt, keep your phone out of your hand, and renew your documents before they expire.