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Changing the engine oil is one of the most important ways to maintain your car’s performance. In this article, we’ll guide you through the best practices for changing your car's oil and when it should be replaced.
To determine the maximum duration for changing your car's oil, several factors that affect the engine’s lifespan should be taken into account, such as:
1. Type of Oil
There are various types of engine oils, including synthetic oil, semi-synthetic oil, and conventional oil. Generally, synthetic and semi-synthetic oils provide better protection and performance for a longer period compared to conventional oils.
2. Operating Conditions
The environment in which you drive your car significantly affects the oil’s lifespan. Driving in harsh conditions such as extreme temperatures or dusty environments may require more frequent oil changes.
3. Type of Fuel
The quality and cleanliness of the fuel play an important role in the longevity of engine oil. Contaminated fuel or fuel containing impurities can degrade the oil, shortening its useful life. It's recommended to use high-quality fuel from reputable stations to maintain the car's efficiency.
4. Driving Style
The way you drive is another important factor in determining the oil's lifespan. Moderate driving with appropriate speeds helps reduce oil degradation, maintaining its quality for a longer time.
Knowing the right time to change your car’s oil is crucial as it directly impacts the vehicle’s performance and engine protection. Several factors influence the timing for an oil change:
Oil is usually changed every 5,000 to 15,000 kilometers, depending on the oil type and the manufacturer’s recommendation; mineral oil needs changing sooner than synthetic oil.
In severe operating conditions such as extreme summer heat and dust, stay at the lower end of this range (about 5,000 kilometers), while the normal interval can be followed in moderate weather.
Specific conditions, such as carrying heavy loads, driving on uneven roads for long distances, or living in extreme hot or cold regions, may require earlier oil changes.
The type of engine also plays a role in determining the oil change interval. Older engines or those frequently exposed to high speeds may consume more oil.
Delaying an oil change can lead to significant engine damage, causing the car owner to pay for repairs that could exceed the cost of an oil change. Other consequences of neglecting oil changes include:
Engine Failure: The engine contains moving metal parts, and when the oil is not changed for an extended period, friction between these parts increases.
Excessive Heat: The friction between engine parts raises the engine's temperature, which may cause permanent damage to the engine.
Increased Wear: As oil degrades, it loses its ability to lubricate effectively, causing increased wear on the engine components.
To change your car’s oil correctly, follow these steps:
Ensure the car is parked on a flat surface, then start the engine for a few minutes to warm up the oil.
Place an oil pan beneath the oil drain plug, then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug counterclockwise.
Allow the oil to drain slowly into the pan until it is fully empty.
Carefully remove the old oil filter.
Clean the area around the oil filter, then install a new filter.
Use a funnel to pour the correct amount of new oil into the engine.
Start the engine for a short time to allow the new oil to circulate properly throughout the engine.
Use the dipstick to check the oil level, ensuring it is within the recommended range.
Replace the oil cap and any filters, and clean up by disposing of the old oil and filters in a plastic bag.
It’s important to recognize the signs that indicate the engine oil has reached the end of its useful life:
Low Oil Level: Check the oil level using the dipstick. If it's below the recommended level, the oil needs to be changed.
Dark and Dirty Oil: If the oil appears dark and contaminated, it has likely been polluted with impurities and needs to be replaced.
Burnt Oil Smell: A burnt smell may indicate that the oil has broken down and expired.
Increased Oil Consumption: If you notice your oil level dropping more frequently between oil changes, the oil may be deteriorating.
Unusual Engine Noises: Strange noises like knocking sounds may be a result of low oil levels or degraded oil.
Here are some helpful tips to keep in mind when changing your car’s oil:
Pre-check the Oil Condition: It's best to inspect the oil before deciding to change it. Sometimes, the oil may not need replacement if it’s still in good condition.
Ensure the Correct Oil Type: Choose the right oil for your car to avoid future issues.
Add the Correct Oil Amount: Adding too much or too little oil can lead to problems like increased pressure or engine damage.
Use a Proper Funnel: A proper funnel directs the oil into the engine’s oil cap to avoid spills and leaks.
Use the Right Oil Filter: Make sure the oil filter is compatible with your car’s model and is an original part to ensure efficient lubrication and prevent clogging of oil passages.

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To check car recalls in Saudi Arabia, enter the VIN on the official recall platform, then read the campaign details and follow the instructions for your vehicle. A matching model name or model year alone does not establish inclusion, and no result does not mean the car is defect-free. If a campaign applies, contact the responsible party named in it, ask about driving instructions and an appointment, and retain confirmation of the completed repair.
A recall is an action to address an announced defect, not a general description of every problem a car develops. The Ministry of Commerce explains that its enquiry service checks whether products or vehicles are included in campaigns announced in cooperation with manufacturers and local agents. Start with the official source rather than a shared image or a message of unknown origin.
Refer to the Ministry of Commerce defective products enquiry service (in Arabic) for the service sequence: access the platform, enter the VIN or search for the product, then follow the campaign details and required actions. Do not assume a recall means replacing the car; the relevant action is the one specified for the campaign once its applicability to your vehicle is confirmed.
Have the vehicle identification number, or VIN, ready. Read it from a reliable document for the car or from the location identified in the owner’s manual. Do not substitute the registration plate number or another identifier simply because its name sounds similar. For help identifying it, see the guide to your vehicle identification number, then match the details to the actual car.
Do not send full images of your documents to untrusted accounts to make an enquiry. Start through the official channel and provide what the responsible party requests through its authorised contact method, without posting your details in public comments.
Searching by product or brand name helps you find announcements, but it does not replace matching the individual car. Keep the date of your enquiry and a copy of the details for reference. Do not treat an old screenshot as a permanent answer about recalls, particularly when a new notice arrives.
Distinguish finding an announcement from confirming that your vehicle is included, and distinguish inclusion from actual completion of the required action. This table helps you choose the next step; it does not represent fixed status labels used by the platform:
| What did you find? | What should you do? |
| An announcement naming your car model | Match the VIN and check the campaign scope before assuming it applies to your car. |
| A result indicating that the vehicle is included | Read the campaign instructions and contact the party responsible for carrying out the action. |
| No result, or a search that could not be completed | Check the entry; if you have a notice or a specific concern, seek confirmation from the relevant party. |
| The seller says the repair was completed | Request the completion document and match it to the VIN and the relevant campaign. |
The absence of a recall result does not guarantee safety or replace an inspection when there are unusual symptoms. Likewise, do not attribute a noise or vibration to a campaign simply because its description seems similar. Diagnosing a fault requires a professional, while the enquiry answers a different question: whether the car is included in the campaign.
Read the full defect description, risk and instructions before planning a trip to a service centre. There is no single driving recommendation for every campaign. If the announcement specifies instructions about use or stopping, follow them. If anything remains unclear, ask the responsible party how to handle and transport the car before moving it.
Do not deliberately try to reproduce the defect, dismantle a suspected component or cancel a warning to continue driving. If the action requires a part or technical work, do not assume that buying a replacement yourself closes the campaign. To understand parts choices outside this process, read the guide to genuine, aftermarket and used car parts; follow up recall work with the party responsible for it.
When collecting the car, request a document showing the work performed and its date, linked to the VIN and campaign. Check that the details concern your car, and ask whether the action is complete or another step remains. An appointment confirmation or service-centre visit alone does not necessarily show that the recall work is finished.
Keep the document with the vehicle records, a copy of the announcement and important correspondence. If a later search seems inconsistent with the completion document, show both to the responsible party and request clarification instead of assuming one overrides the other. If symptoms remain or a concern appears after the work, report it and request a technical assessment. Proof of campaign repair is not a certificate that the car has no other faults.
Add a check for open recalls, meaning those whose required action is not yet complete, to your pre-purchase checklist. Request the VIN, match it to the car and search for yourself rather than relying on a verbal assurance or an image for a similar vehicle. If the seller mentions a completed earlier campaign, request its document and review the VIN and work details.
If a campaign applies and completion is unclear, ask the responsible party what remains before deciding to buy or use the vehicle. Do not make a recall result a substitute for a technical inspection or a review of the car’s condition; combine it with these used car inspection tips before purchase. The aim is to establish what has been verified and what needs follow-up, not to obtain a comprehensive guarantee from one search result.
Start with the correct VIN, read the full announcement and follow up with the responsible party until completion and documentation are clear. Make the enquiry part of caring for a car and checking it before purchase, not a replacement for a technical inspection or its specific safety instructions.

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Choosing a car battery starts with confirming that the battery really is the cause of the problem, then matching what the owner’s manual or the current battery label specifies: size and mounting, terminal orientation, capacity in Ah, cold cranking amps (CCA) and battery technology. After that, check the manufacture date and warranty terms, and make sure installation is done properly, which may include registering the battery in the car’s system. This guide explains each step in general terms; your owner’s manual and a qualified technician remain the reference for your car’s specifications.
Do not buy a battery just because the car failed to start once. Weak starting can be linked to the battery, but also to the starter motor, the connections or the charging system. Ask a specialist to test the battery and charging system with suitable equipment, and review the car battery failure symptoms and how to test them to recognise signs worth checking.
If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the battery may not be the cause; see the guide on an engine that cranks but will not start. If the battery keeps going flat, there may be a hidden electrical drain in the car, and fitting a new battery without fixing the cause may simply pass the problem on to it. Once testing confirms the battery, prepare the following before visiting the seller:
The first reference is the owner’s manual, then the label of the original battery if it is still fitted. The table below summarises what to compare before paying and where to find it.
| Item | Where to find it | Why it matters |
| Size or group | Owner’s manual or current battery label | Defines overall dimensions and fit on the tray |
| Mounting dimensions | Battery tray and hold-down clamp | A poorly secured battery vibrates and can be damaged |
| Terminal orientation | Position of the positive and negative terminals on the current battery | A different layout may stop cables reaching or strain them |
| Capacity (Ah) | Label or owner’s manual | Indicates the energy stored in the battery |
| Cold cranking amps (CCA) | Label | Indicates the battery’s ability to deliver starting current |
| Technology type | Label and owner’s manual | Must suit the charging system and any stop-start system |
Two batteries can look alike yet differ in terminal orientation, height or mounting lip. Ask the seller to compare the new battery directly with the old one. If the current label differs from the manual, the previous battery may not have matched in the first place; rely on the manual or ask the dealer or a qualified technician.
Capacity in Ah describes how much energy the battery stores, which matters when the battery powers the car’s systems with the engine off. Cold cranking amps (CCA) describe the battery’s ability to deliver a high current at the moment of starting in cold conditions, according to a specific test standard.
A label may state CCA according to a different standard from another battery, so only compare two figures measured to the same standard, and ask the seller to clarify. The general rule is not to go below the car’s specified capacity or current.
On the other hand, a higher figure is not automatically better; what matters is that the battery keeps the correct size and technology. In cars that record battery data in their system, the actual capacity of the new battery may need to be entered during registration, so tell the technician about any difference from the original.
The general idea of each type is as follows, while the manual decides what your car needs:
In a car with automatic stop-start, the battery handles frequent engine restarts and powers systems while the engine is stopped. Fitting a lower technology than specified, such as a conventional flooded battery instead of EFB or EFB instead of AGM, may weaken system performance, shorten battery life and trigger warning messages. Moving to a higher technology should only happen if the owner’s manual or the dealer allows it.
If the battery sits inside the cabin or boot, the manufacturer may specify a sealed type or a particular vent outlet; do not fit a different battery in that location without confirming that it matches.
The manufacture date usually appears as a code printed on the lid or case or on a small sticker, and the code format differs between manufacturers, so ask the seller to explain the code on the battery itself, and prefer the most recently made battery among the matching options.
A battery stored for a long time may lose some charge, so ask whether the seller tested it before sale. For the warranty, read the written terms on the invoice or warranty card rather than relying on a verbal promise, and pay attention to the following:
High temperatures speed up the reactions inside a battery and may increase fluid loss and ageing of the internal plates. This does not mean choosing a battery simply because it is marketed for heat; it means sticking to the correct specification and technology and choosing a recently made battery.
After installation, help the battery by parking in the shade where possible, keeping the terminals clean and checking the battery and charging system during routine maintenance. For more on how heat affects the car in general, read the summer car care guide for Saudi heat.
If you are not confident about the steps, leave the installation to a qualified technician. If you fit it yourself, wear eye protection and gloves, switch the engine off and keep the key away, disconnect and reconnect the terminals in the order given in the owner’s manual, avoid letting a metal tool touch both terminals, and keep any sparks or flames away from the battery.
After installation, start the car and watch for any warning message. If one appears, return to the technician to check the installation and registration rather than trying to clear the warning yourself.
A battery contains acid and lead, so do not open it, drain it or put it in household waste. Keep it upright, protect its terminals from contact, and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling. If it is cracked or leaking, do not touch it with bare hands and ask the workshop to handle it.
Slow cranking with dim lights may point to the battery, while a click with bright lights may point to the starter motor. These are indications, not a diagnosis, so have the battery and charging system tested and review the signs of a failing starter motor before buying.
It may be possible in some cases if the size and technology still match, but the decision rests with the owner’s manual and the technician, especially in cars that record battery data in their system.
This is not recommended; use the technology specified in the manual, such as EFB or AGM, because a lower technology may not withstand the frequent restart pattern.
No, but some cars require it using a diagnostic tool. Ask the technician or check the manual before installation, and do not assume the swap is complete once the terminals are connected.
Do not open it or throw it away with household waste. Keep it upright and hand it to the seller, a workshop or a party that accepts used batteries for recycling.
First confirm that the battery is the problem, then match size, terminals, capacity, CCA and technology to the owner’s manual, and check the manufacture date and warranty terms. Leave installation and registration to a technician if you are unsure, and dispose of the old battery safely.

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Accident damage assessment is a step you may need after a Najm or traffic police report. According to the Saudi Authority for Accredited Valuers (TAQEEM), it means determining the cost of repairing the vehicle, including parts, or estimating its market value before or after the damage. These assessments are managed electronically through the Taqdeer system, which operates under the Authority’s supervision and lets you book an appointment and check the status of your assessment. This guide covers the stage after the report: when to seek an assessment, what to prepare, how to read the report and review it with your workshop and insurer, and what to do if you disagree with the result.
On its official English website, TAQEEM describes vehicle damage assessment valuation as “the act or process of determining the value of repairing the vehicle including the spare parts, or estimating the market value of the vehicle before and after the accident”; the Arabic version also mentions labour explicitly. The outcome may therefore be a repair cost, or a market value before or after the damage, depending on the case.
TAQEEM describes Taqdeer as “an online integrated system for managing, operating, and organizing vehicle damage assessment processes” and lists “Book an appointment at Taqdeer centers” among its services. The Taqdeer system website (in Arabic) states that it operates under the supervision of the Saudi Authority for Accredited Valuers. An assessment is a technical valuation of the damage; it is neither the accident report nor your insurer’s decision.
The sequence starts with attending to and documenting the accident. If you have not completed that stage, begin with the guide to Najm reporting steps and when to call the traffic police, then return to this guide.
The official pages we relied on do not state that an assessment is required for every accident, nor do they describe the content of report messages. Follow what the accident report and your insurer require in your case, and ask before any repair starts, because repairing damage before it is assessed may cost you the chance to document it as it was. Useful questions for your insurer:
The Taqdeer website presents the service in three consecutive stages, which can be summarised as follows:
If your plans change before the appointment, the manage bookings service allows you, according to the site, to modify or cancel the booking, and the assessment centers page helps you find the nearest centers in your city. We do not mention numbers of centers, timings or fees here; follow what the service shows for your case when you book.
The pages we reviewed do not publish a document list, so the list below is practical rather than an official requirement; what the booking screen and center ask for takes precedence:
Do not repair the damage being assessed before the appointment unless the relevant authority tells you to, and do not drive an unsafe car; arrange transport if you notice a leak, a red warning light or a steering fault.
The report format may vary from case to case, but the Authority’s definition shows what it centres on: labour, spare parts, or market value before or after the damage. Use the table to review it item by item:
| Item | What to Check | What to Ask |
| Vehicle and accident details | The car and the accident reference match | Do these details relate to my car and this accident? |
| Spare parts | The listed parts compared with the documented damage | What type of part does the assessment assume? |
| Labour | Listed work such as bodywork and paint | Does the work cover all the damage I documented? |
| Market value | Whether a value before or after the damage is stated | On what basis was this value reached? |
To understand how the type of part affects a repair, see genuine vs aftermarket vs used car parts. Do not assume the report specifies the type of part unless it says so explicitly; ask about it.
The assessment sets a value, while the compensation and repair path is governed by your policy and your insurer. Check your policy type and what it covers in the guide to comprehensive versus third-party car insurance, and do not assume that the assessed amount is what you will receive in every case.
If the car needs sensor or camera calibration after the repair, ask whether it is included in the assessment or in the workshop’s quote.
We did not find a published objection mechanism for assessment results on the official pages we reviewed, so we do not describe a specific procedure. The right step is to ask the source about the official procedure:
Do not accept a settlement you disagree with before you understand its consequences, and ask for written replies where possible.
The report and invoice help you later when you sell the car or when a buyer asks about the accident. The guide to reading a Mojaz report and its limits explains how accident records in a vehicle history should be understood and what cannot be concluded from them.
If you are a buyer looking at a car with signs of repair, ask for the assessment report and invoice if they exist, and use the guide on how to tell whether a car has been repaired alongside an independent technical inspection.
No. The report documents the accident, while the assessment estimates the repair cost or the market value of the vehicle before or after the damage.
Do not rely on a general rule; follow what the accident report and your insurer require in your case, and ask them before repairing the car.
The Taqdeer website offers an assessment status inquiry service and lists receiving the report electronically as one of the service stages.
The website offers a manage bookings service for changes and cancellations; follow what the service shows for your booking.
Not necessarily. Compensation depends on your policy and your insurer’s procedures, so ask your insurer how it is calculated in your case.
After the report, ask your insurer what your case needs, book the assessment through the official system and read the report item by item before any repair. If you disagree, ask Taqdeer and your insurer about the official procedure, and keep your documents for the future.

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A Mojaz report helps you read a used car’s history through the records available; it does not deliver a final verdict on its condition. Start by matching the vehicle’s identity, then read mileage, accident and maintenance records chronologically and compare them with documents and the car’s current condition. No accident record does not mean accident-free, and missing mileage readings do not validate the odometer. Use the report to identify seller questions and professional inspection priorities before deciding to buy, not as a replacement for inspection.
The official Mojaz homepage (in Arabic) says it brings together key historical vehicle data from official sources in one report. Its report outline lists vehicle information, odometer reading history, accident records, maintenance and repairs, warranty information, spare parts, vehicle reputation and related images.
These are section names presented by the service, not a promise that every section contains data for every car. Read what is actually available, and do not turn a blank field into a positive or negative finding. Likewise, do not infer a specific rating or acceptance standard from the vehicle reputation heading; use any accompanying explanation and ask about unclear descriptions before relying on them.
Before discussing findings, establish that the report belongs to the actual car being offered. Ask to see the full version rather than a cropped image of a reassuring section, and match its identification details to the vehicle documents and the car. Do not rely on a similar colour or general description, or dismiss an identification mismatch as a minor error without checking.
For identification details and their locations, see the guide to vehicle identification numbers, while paying attention to the name of each identifier in the document you are reading.
Read the date of each distance reading, not just the last number. Put the available readings in order from oldest to newest, then compare the latest with the car’s odometer during the viewing. Check measurement units first; do not directly compare figures expressed in different units. Your aim is to understand the sequence and identify questions, not estimate true mileage from cabin appearance alone.
If the seller mentions an odometer replacement, ask for the work record and evidence of readings before and after replacement, if available. Do not fill a missing sequence with estimates or treat consistent readings alone as a guarantee that the entire usage history is known.
If an accident record appears, read its details as written and compare them with repair documents supplied by the seller. Do not reduce the assessment to a record count or label damage minor or severe without supporting information. A report may describe a historical event, while repair quality and present condition need an independent inspection.
If related images appear, check their connection to the event, the vehicle and their date whenever that information is available. A photograph does not reveal everything behind visible parts, and missing images do not rule out damage. Where structural repairs are suspected, request a specialist inspection. The guide to signs of bodywork and structural repairs can help you frame questions, not make your own technical verdict.
If no accident record appears, the accurate wording is: no event is visible in the data you are reading. Do not replace that with the car has never had an accident, or let that inference cancel the inspection or the request for repair documents.
Read available maintenance and repair entries with their dates, comparing them with the seller’s invoices. Distinguish a record of past work from proof that the relevant system works well today. If a repair description recurs, ask what was done and what happened afterwards, without automatically assuming a particular fault or an unsuccessful repair.
Warranty information alone does not mean cover is active or transferable to you; verify the document and terms with the relevant provider. Equally, do not infer from a spare parts section that every component is genuine or in good condition. A missing maintenance record does not prove neglect, but leaves a question requiring documents and inspection.
Compare documented work with the appropriate owner’s manual requirements alongside a professional. Do not derive a new servicing schedule from the report or assume one completed job means all other scheduled work was done or related components are sound.
Use this table to organise your notes; it is not a real sample vehicle report. Always distinguish what you read, what you still do not know and the next step needed to close that gap.
| What you read | What it does not prove alone | Next step |
| Consecutive odometer readings | Complete mileage history | Compare with the odometer and documents |
| No odometer readings | Accuracy of current mileage | Seek more evidence and document the gap |
| An accident record | Current repair quality | Repair documents and specialist inspection |
| No visible accident record | An accident-free car | Professional body and paint inspection |
| Recorded maintenance work | The component’s condition today | Compare with the current inspection |
| Warranty information | Active cover for the buyer | Verify terms with the relevant provider |
Start with an open question about the car’s usage history, then address unclear report entries. Request specific answers that can be connected to documents; personal trust or numerous photographs are not substitutes for verification. Keep your notes separate from the original report so your interpretations do not become confused with its records.
Give the professional your report and notes before inspection, and request an assessment of the current structure, mechanical and electrical systems and safety components. Do not simply seek confirmation of an existing impression: ask what was checked and what could not be verified. To organise the rest of the viewing, see the used car inspection tips before purchase.
If a material identity or mileage discrepancy appears, or a significant repair remains unexplained, postpone the decision until it is clarified. If the gap cannot be closed, treat it as unknown information rather than proof of sound condition. Once the technical assessment is settled, review the vehicle ownership transfer steps on Absher separately; a history report does not replace the sale procedures.
In short, read a Mojaz report as available evidence and open questions, not a certificate that the car has no defects. Match its identity, review the timeline and connect the findings with documents and an independent inspection. A stronger decision clearly distinguishes what is established from what remains unknown.

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The difference between the two types of car insurance in Saudi Arabia is that third-party insurance, which is the compulsory insurance, compensates the third party for the physical and material damage your vehicle causes and does not cover your own car, while comprehensive insurance compensates you for damage or loss to your car, including fire, theft, floods and hail, and also includes liability towards third parties. Here we explain what each type covers and excludes as stated in the official documents, what the deductible means, and how to choose the right policy.
These are the main differences as stated in the Saudi Central Bank documents; the details follow in the next sections:
| Item | Third-party | Comprehensive |
| Status | Compulsory | Not compulsory; includes third-party liability cover |
| Physical and material damage to third parties | Covered within the policy limits | Covered as per the unified policy |
| Damage to your car in an accident you cause | Excluded | Covered after deducting the deductible |
| Fire, theft, floods and hail | Not covered for your car | Included |
| Towing your damaged car and storing it | Not provided for | Included up to the amount stated in the schedule |
| Death or injury of the driver | Excluded | An optional cover offered before the policy is issued |
The Unified Compulsory Motor Insurance Policy sets the minimum limit of civil liability cover towards third parties. If an accident occurs within the borders of the Kingdom and causes damage that is not excluded, the insurer compensates the third party for what the insured, the driver or the person responsible for the accident is liable to pay for:
A third party is anyone who suffers damage that is not excluded, other than the insured or the driver responsible for the accident; so this insurance protects others from your mistakes and does not repair your car. Subject to the exceptions, the insurer may not refuse to compensate the injured party because of a violation committed by the driver, but it keeps the right to recover from them in cases set out in the policy, such as driving against traffic, running a red light, and driving without a licence suitable for the type of vehicle.
Cases the unified policy excludes from compensation include:
According to the Comprehensive Motor Insurance Rules, the company compensates the insured for any risk causing damage or loss to the vehicle, including fire, theft, lightning and natural disasters such as floods and hail, in addition to third-party civil liability as per the unified policy. Compensation works as follows:
Before issuing the policy, the company must offer you optional covers: renting a replacement vehicle, roadside assistance, death, injuries and medical expenses of the driver or named driver, and accidents outside the Kingdom; any you decline become excluded.
The main exclusions in the rules include:
The company and the insured may agree to waive any exclusion unless that conflicts with the law, so ask about the ones that matter to you before signing.
The rules define the deductible as the amount borne by the insured for any claim as stated in the policy schedule, and they control how it is applied:
In practice, it is what you will pay out of your own pocket in every accident you are liable for, so compare offers by it as well, not by the policy cost alone.
The decision depends on whether you could bear the cost of repairing or losing your car yourself, so review these factors:
The policy schedule is an integral part of the policy, so check:
These provisions may be updated, so confirm the latest version on the official website of the Insurance Authority, and the terms of your policy with a licensed insurance company.
In short: third-party insurance is the compulsory minimum that protects others from damage caused by your vehicle, and comprehensive insurance adds protection for your own car in return for a deductible you agree on. Choose according to your car's value, its financing and how you use it, and read the policy schedule before you pay. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.

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Vehicle driving authorization on Absher is an electronic service that lets a vehicle owner add an authorized person to drive the vehicle inside or outside the Kingdom, depending on the type of authorization selected. The owner starts from Vehicles, then Manage Vehicles, selects the vehicle, chooses Authorize Vehicles and then Issue Authorization. Before that, the vehicle registration must be valid with active insurance, and both parties must have Absher accounts. This guide covers the conditions, steps, period limits, the difference from ownership transfer and what the owner should check first.
The official Issue an Authorization service page on the National Portal says the service allows you electronically to add an authorized person to drive a vehicle inside or outside the Kingdom, depending on the selected type of authorization. The service belongs to the Ministry of Interior, targets individuals, both citizens and residents, and lists its channels as the website portal and the iOS and Android apps.
The authorization is therefore permission to drive, not a sale or a transfer of ownership. The vehicle owner issues the authorization, and the authorized person is added to drive within the selected type and period. Read the service name in your account carefully and do not confuse it with other vehicle services in the same menu.
The Prerequisites tab of the official service page lists the following conditions, as shown at the time of writing:
The Required Documents tab lists the following:
The text we reviewed adds no other conditions, so follow what the service requests for your case rather than lists circulating in forums or messages.
The following steps come from the official service page. Menus may look different in the portal and the app, so look for the same names:
The page describes the service duration as immediate, but do not rely on pressing the issue button alone; review what the service displays after submission to confirm the transaction is complete. If a message prevents issuing the authorization, return to the conditions above and start with the item the message refers to, such as insurance validity or the validity of one of the licenses, instead of retrying without changing anything.
The page states that the authorization applies inside or outside the Kingdom depending on the type of authorization you select in the final step. Decide the purpose before you start: will the authorized person drive only inside the Kingdom, or do they need to drive the vehicle abroad?
For an external authorization, the Required Documents tab requires the authorized person to hold an exit and re-entry visa. The page links the visa duration to the authorization period, but the Prerequisites wording (the authorization period must not exceed the visa duration) runs in the opposite direction to the Required Documents wording (the visa must not exceed the authorization period), so follow what the service accepts for your case. A holder of a final exit visa cannot be added as an authorized person.
The service page does not address the requirements of other countries or border crossings when travelling by car, so ask the competent authorities about this before relying on the authorization alone.
The service page does not set a fixed authorization period; it sets upper limits instead. The period must not exceed the validity of the vehicle registration, the validity of the authorized person’s driving license, or the duration of their exit and re-entry visa if they hold one. In practice, whichever of these dates expires first limits the period you can choose.
As for cancellation, the pages we reviewed do not explain the steps. Start from the Authorize Vehicles screen in the owner’s account and review the options shown to you. If nothing fits your case, ask the official Ministry of Interior support channels, and do not rely on an unofficial explanation that mentions a specific button or period.
If the vehicle registration is about to expire, review the vehicle registration renewal steps on Absher before choosing the authorization period, because the period may not exceed the registration validity.
Some people confuse allowing someone to drive the car with selling it to them. As the service describes it, authorization adds an authorized driver and is issued by the vehicle owner, while ownership transfer is a separate procedure that changes the owner. The table summarises the difference:
| Item | Driving Authorization | Ownership Transfer |
| Purpose | Add an authorized person to drive the vehicle | Transfer vehicle ownership to another owner |
| Who starts it | The vehicle owner, according to the service page | According to the sale service conditions |
| Does the owner change? | The service describes no change of ownership | Yes, that is the purpose of the procedure |
| Period limits | Not beyond the registration and the authorized person’s driving license validity | Follows the transfer service conditions |
If your aim is to sell or buy the car, authorization is not a substitute for a sale; review the Absher ownership transfer steps and sale conditions to complete the correct procedure.
The official conditions determine whether the authorization can be issued, but they do not answer every practical question. Before issuing it, review the following points:
If an accident happens while the authorized person is driving, learn the steps to take after a car accident and Najm reporting. The service page does not address how responsibility for accidents or violations is shared between the owner and the authorized person, so do not build assumptions on it; ask the competent authority or your insurer about your case.
Yes. The Required Documents tab states that the authorizer must be the vehicle owner. The authorization is therefore not issued from the account of someone who does not own the vehicle, even if they usually drive it.
Yes. The page requires both the authorizer and the authorized person to have Absher accounts. Confirm this before starting so the process does not stop when you enter the details.
No. The prerequisites state that authorization cannot be granted to someone holding a final exit visa. For a holder of an exit and re-entry visa, the authorization period is tied to the visa duration.
The published condition is a valid vehicle registration with active insurance. If either has expired, resolve it first and then return to the authorization service.
The service page mentions insurance only as a condition for issuing the authorization. Review your policy and its terms with your insurer before allowing another person to drive.
Vehicle driving authorization on Absher starts from the owner’s account and requires a valid registration, active insurance and Absher accounts for both parties, with its period limited by the validity of the licenses and visa. Choose the right authorization type, review your insurance policy and do not use authorization as a substitute for ownership transfer.