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Dashboard warning lights are your car’s way of talking to you, and the color of the light is the first thing to notice: red means a hazard or a fault that requires stopping safely at the first opportunity, yellow or amber means an alert that needs a check soon, while green and blue are information lights telling you that a system is working. In this guide we explain the most important dashboard warning lights and their meanings, and what to do when each one appears, bearing in mind that symbols can differ slightly from one car to another, so the owner’s manual remains the most accurate reference for your car.
Most manufacturers use a color system similar to traffic lights, and understanding it helps you make the right decision within seconds.
When you turn the key or press the start button, most lights come on for a few seconds; this is a normal self-test in which the car confirms that the warning systems are working.
Dashboard lights do not come on for no reason, and dealing with them calmly and sensibly protects your engine and keeps you safe on the road. Remember the simple rule: red means stop safely, amber means get it checked soon, and green and blue are for information. When in doubt, stopping and asking for help is always cheaper and safer than risking carrying on driving.

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To read a fuel economy label, start with the km/L value: the number of kilometres the car travels on one litre of fuel. The higher the number, the more economical the car. Next, make sure the label belongs to the exact model, model year and engine capacity you intend to buy, verify it through the Taakad app, and then divide your annual distance by the figure to estimate how many litres you will need each year. This guide explains the label's fields, how to compare and calculate with an illustrative example, and why your car's real-world consumption may differ from the printed figure.
A fuel economy label is a sticker you will find on new cars. It shows the model's fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, together with a level that rates this value. According to the Saudi Press Agency report on the Letabqa energy conservation campaign, the label classifies cars into seven levels: Excellent+, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Average, Poor and Very Poor. The top levels appear in dark green and the lowest in red.
There are two types of label, depending on how the vehicle is used: one for passenger cars such as sedans and minivans, and one for light trucks such as four-wheel drives, pickups and cargo vans. Pay attention to the label type when comparing, and compare cars of similar size and use wherever possible.
The label combines the vehicle's basic information with its fuel economy result. According to the same source, it includes:
Before focusing on the number, match these fields with the car in front of you, especially the model year, engine capacity and fuel type. A single model may come with more than one engine or trim, and each may have a different value. Take a clear photo of every label so the details do not get mixed up if you visit several showrooms.
The km/L figure tells you how far the car travels on one litre. A value of 18 km/L, for example, means the car covers 18 kilometres per litre according to the label value. With this unit, the higher number is better. When comparing:
The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization provides the Taakad app for checking fuel economy label and energy efficiency label information, and it can be downloaded free for iOS and Android devices. The steps, as described on the app's page and in the previous source, are:
The formula is simple: annual distance in kilometres ÷ fuel economy in km/L = estimated fuel in litres. To estimate your annual distance accurately, compare the dashboard odometer readings on two service records about a year apart, or take a typical week's distance and multiply it by the number of weeks in a year, then add the trips you know you will make.
Illustrative example: an annual distance of 20,000 km and two cars, the first rated at 15 km/L and the second at 20 km/L. These are hypothetical teaching figures only, not specifications of cars offered for sale.
| Item | First car | Second car |
|---|---|---|
| Assumed fuel economy | 15 km/L | 20 km/L |
| Annual distance | 20,000 km | 20,000 km |
| Calculation | 20,000 ÷ 15 | 20,000 ÷ 20 |
| Estimated quantity | About 1,333 litres | 1,000 litres |
The difference in this example is about 333 litres a year. To turn it into an amount of money, multiply each car's quantity by the price per litre of the fuel it needs at the time of comparison, then subtract the two results.
Some brochures, websites and dashboard displays show consumption in litres per 100 km, where the lower number is better. To convert, divide 100 by the km/L value; to convert back, divide 100 by the L/100 km value:
This unit reveals something many people overlook: the same increase in km/L saves more fuel when the starting value is low. In another illustrative example over 20,000 km, moving from 10 to 12 km/L saves about 333 litres, while moving from 20 to 22 km/L saves only about 91 litres. Do not compare a km/L figure with a figure in another unit, such as miles per gallon, before converting to the same unit.
The label figure is a reference value that helps you compare models, but it does not describe your own driving style or road conditions. The main things that change real-world consumption are:
Use the label for an initial comparison, then monitor your car's consumption over several refills. If consumption rises clearly and persistently above your usual level, read about the common causes of higher fuel consumption and arrange an inspection when needed, rather than assuming the label is wrong. If your car offers an economy driving mode, learn about the ECO system and whether it really saves fuel.
The most accurate home method is the full-tank method, and all you need is the dashboard trip meter and your fuel receipt:
The consumption reading on the trip computer is useful for daily monitoring, but it is an estimate and may differ slightly from the manual calculation, so rely on the manual calculation for long-term comparison.
The fuel economy label is a quick comparison tool if you read it in the right order: match the details, verify them through the Taakad app, then turn the figure into litres that fit your distance. When you compare cars at Saleh Cars Group, ask for the label of the version that interests you and calculate your own needs before deciding.

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To check traffic violations in Saudi Arabia, open the Query Traffic Violations page on the Absher platform and enter your ID number together with the violation number or your date of birth. To pay, sign in to the Efaa platform through the National Single Sign-On, choose the violations you want to pay, then pay through the SADAD system, a mada card or a credit card. To object, use the Dispute Traffic Violations service that the Ministry of Interior provides online. These procedures may be updated from time to time, so confirm the latest steps on the official platform before you act.
Traffic violations are violations related to the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations. As the description of the dispute service on the National Platform explains, they are issued by the General Department of Traffic or by any other authority authorised to apply the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations. In practice, you deal with them through three main services:
It helps to distinguish traffic violations from other government violations, such as Ministry of Transport violations or municipal violations, because each authority has its own services; you will find a summary in the table below.
The Absher platform provides a dedicated page called Query Traffic Violations, which asks for specific search details. The steps usually go as follows:
If you want to see the violations registered against you by different government entities in one place, the Efaa platform steps start with signing in through the National Single Sign-On (Nafath) and then viewing the registered violations, which we explain in the next section.
The service for paying government violations registered against individuals enables citizens, residents and visitors to view and pay all the violations registered against them by government entities, including traffic, smoking, government fines and other violations. The service page on the National Platform lists the payment steps as follows:
According to the service description, the platform aims to unify and simplify violation procedures through a single digital platform that the relevant entities are linked to, so violations are issued and managed centrally. The National Platform also states that the service itself is free, meaning there is no charge for using it; this does not mean the violation amount is waived.
The Dispute Traffic Violations service provided by the Ministry of Interior allows you to dispute traffic violations issued by the General Department of Traffic and any other authority authorised to apply the Traffic Law and its implementing regulations. The service is provided online through the web portal and the mobile apps, and its path as shown on the service page is:
We have not listed deadlines or detailed conditions for disputes here because they do not appear in the service description on the National Platform; read the conditions and instructions shown to you inside the service before submitting, and do not delay your dispute if you believe the violation is incorrect. Before you start, the following helps:
Several entities register violations, and each service has a specific purpose. The table below summarises the services listed in the official sources we relied on:
| Service | Entity or platform | What it lets you do |
| Query Traffic Violations | Absher platform | Search by ID number with the violation number or date of birth |
| Payment of government violations registered against individuals | Ministry of Finance through the Efaa platform | View violations registered by government entities and choose which to pay |
| Dispute Traffic Violations | Ministry of Interior | Dispute violations from the traffic department and authorities authorised to apply the Traffic Law |
| Violations inquiry at the Ministry of Transport | Ministry of Transport and Logistic Services | Display violation details by searching with the violation number or the identification number |
| Municipal violations inquiry | Qassim Region Municipality as an example | View registered violations and the details of each one after signing in through the National Single Sign-On |
If a violation is registered with an entity other than the traffic department, look for that entity's inquiry service on the National Platform; for example, the Ministry of Transport and Logistic Services offers an inquiry through its web portal via the Ministry Services link and then the Violations Inquiry service in the list of inquiry services.
The best way to deal with violations is not to commit them in the first place, and most of their common causes can be avoided with simple habits that protect you and others on the road:
Remember that driver assistance systems such as lane departure warning and adaptive cruise control help you, but they do not replace your attention, and they do not take over your responsibility to follow the rules.
Dealing with traffic violations is easier than it looks: check them on Absher, pay them on the Efaa platform, dispute them through the Ministry of Interior service if you have a clear reason, and always review the updated steps on the official platforms. Most importantly, avoid their common causes from the start: keep to the speed limit, fasten your seat belt, keep your phone out of your hand, and renew your documents before they expire.

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If you are asking when to replace car tyres, the short answer is: replace a tyre when the surface of the tread reaches the level of the raised wear indicators inside the grooves, when a bulge, a deep cut or clear cracks appear in its sidewall, or when the rubber has aged to the point at which the tyre or car manufacturer recommends replacement, even if the tread looks good. In this guide we explain how to check your tyres, what the wear pattern reveals, and how to choose the right replacement.
Replacement is not tied to a single distance for every car, but to the tyre's condition and its maker's recommendations. The main signs are:
Inside the grooves are small raised bars called wear indicators, whose location is marked by the letters TWI or a small triangle on the tyre's shoulder, and when the tread surface is level with them, the tyre has reached the end of its usable life. To check:
Do not wait until they are exactly level if you travel often or drive in the rain, as water clearance and grip weaken gradually as the tread gets shallower.
The sidewall flexes with every turn of the wheel and carries the car's weight, so any damage to it is more dangerous than tread wear:
The wear pattern reveals the cause of the problem, and if you do not fix it, new tyres will wear the same way:
| Wear pattern | Likely cause | What to do |
| Both edges more than the centre | Pressure lower than recommended | Set the pressure according to the driver's door sticker and check it regularly |
| Centre more than the edges | Pressure higher than recommended | Set the recommended pressure, not the maximum pressure printed on the tyre |
| One inner or outer edge | Wheel alignment or suspension fault | Check the alignment and suspension parts |
| Diagonal, feather-like wear | Incorrect toe between the two wheels | Have the alignment set at an equipped workshop |
| Repeated patches or scallops | Unbalanced wheels or worn shock absorbers | Balance the wheels and check the shock absorbers |
| A single flat spot | Hard braking with a locked wheel, or standing a long time without moving | Have a specialist assess the tyre |
If you see wear on both edges, start by reviewing the causes, signs and solutions for low tyre pressure, and if the wear is on one edge or comes with the car pulling to one side, read about the difference between wheel balancing and alignment.
Rubber ages over time even if the car is used little, and you will find how to tell a tyre's age from the DOT code in our article on how to read tyre size and manufacture date. There is no single lifespan for all tyres, so refer to the tyre and car makers' recommendations. In the Kingdom's climate, some factors speed up deterioration:
Ideally all four tyres match, but replacing them all together is not always necessary:
The spare forgotten in the boot ages just like the other tyres, even if it is never used:
Choose what your car was designed for, not just what the shop has in stock, and check the following:
The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization offers the Energy Efficiency Label for Tires service, and explains that the label serves as a guide for consumers before purchasing the product to increase their awareness of its energy efficiency before buying it.
The organization lists tyres among the products subject to the efficiency label regulations, and the aims of these labels include reducing energy consumption for the consumer, enabling the consumer to know a product's efficiency before buying, and protecting consumer safety and health and the environment. In practice:
Checking your tyres takes only minutes: look at the wear indicators, inspect the sidewall, notice the wear pattern and read the manufacture date. If a danger sign appears, do not postpone the change; choose a replacement with the recommended size, load and speed ratings, then fix the cause of any uneven wear.

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Advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS) are a set of sensors, cameras and software that monitor the area around the car, warning you of a potential hazard or intervening in specific conditions by braking, steering or adjusting speed. Before buying, it is not enough to see a system's name in the specification sheet; ask exactly what it does, when it stops working and how to try it safely.
These systems usually rely on a camera behind the windscreen near the rear-view mirror, a radar behind the grille or front bumper, radars in the corners of the rear bumper, plus parking sensors and cameras around the body. The car's computer combines their signals to estimate distances, speeds and the car's position between the lane markings.
They differ from the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and the traction control system (TCS); those two monitor the wheels themselves, while ADAS monitors the road, vehicles and pedestrians around you, and many of these systems use the same brake system when they intervene.
The US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) explains in its guide to driver assistance technologies that some systems are designed only to warn you, while others take action to avoid a crash, and that manufacturers use different trade names for the same function; so rely on the function described in the owner's manual rather than the name.
| System | What it does |
|---|---|
| Forward Collision Warning (FCW) | Warning only when you close in quickly on a vehicle ahead. |
| Automatic Emergency Braking (AEB) | Intervention: supports your braking or brakes automatically if a collision appears imminent. |
| Lane Departure Warning (LDW) | Warning only when the car leaves its lane without a signal. |
| Lane Keeping Assist (LKA) | Intervention: gently corrects the steering to bring the car back into its lane. |
| Blind Spot Warning (BSW) | Warning by a signal in the mirror when there is a vehicle you cannot see. |
| Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) | Intervention: adjusts speed to keep a distance from the vehicle ahead. |
| Rear Cross Traffic Warning (RCTW) | Warning while reversing of a vehicle approaching from the side. |
| Surround-view camera | Visibility aid: a combined image of the car's surroundings while parking. |
| Driver attention monitoring | Warning when signs of drowsiness or distraction appear. |
Having a warning system does not mean a matching intervention is fitted; a trim may include blind spot warning without any steering or braking intervention, so ask for the system list for the exact trim and model year you will buy.
The NHTSA page on active braking technologies explains that these systems use radar, cameras and other sensors to detect vehicles, pedestrians or objects in front of the car, increasing braking force if your braking is insufficient, or braking automatically if you do not respond to the warning, with the aim of avoiding a collision or reducing its severity. This does not mean they prevent every collision in all conditions.
Ask when buying: does the system detect pedestrians and cyclists, or only vehicles? Does it work when reversing? And what speed range does it operate in according to the owner's manual? Never test it by deliberately approaching a car, a person or an obstacle.
The warning system only gives a sound or a vibration in the steering wheel when the car drifts across the lane markings, while the assist system gently corrects the steering, and in some cars may brake one of the wheels. Lane centring, by contrast, steers the car continuously while it is active, and usually works together with adaptive cruise control.
These systems depend on the camera seeing the road markings, so their performance weakens when the lines are faded or missing, as on some desert roads and in diversion zones, and many cars alert you if you take your hands off the wheel while they are active.
Standard cruise control keeps a fixed speed that you set, whereas the adaptive version slows down if you approach a slower vehicle, then returns to the set speed when the road clears, and in some cars it can stop and move off again in traffic.
Before using it, learn how to choose the following distance and how to cancel it with the brake pedal or the cancel button. Its braking ability is limited, and it may not respond as you expect to a stationary vehicle or a car that cuts in suddenly; so stay ready to brake yourself.
Blind spot monitoring alerts you with a light in the side mirror, some systems add a sound if you signal towards a lane with a vehicle in it. Rear cross traffic warning is useful when reversing out of a parking space between large vehicles that block your view.
The surround-view camera shows a combined image as if you were seeing the car from above, but it can distort distances at its edges and does not replace the mirrors and turning to look yourself.
Alongside the general steps in our new car buying guide, set aside part of the test drive for the assistance systems:
If a message says the system is unavailable, continue driving carefully without relying on it, clean the sensors with water and a soft cloth while keeping high-pressure water away from them, and if the message persists, have the car inspected.
The camera and radar are mounted at a precise angle, and even a small change can make the system misjudge distance or lane position. That is why the manufacturer may require the sensors to be checked or calibrated in cases such as:
Before any repair, ask the service centre about the calibration requirements for your car, and ask for proof that it was carried out. With a used car, ask whether the windscreen has been replaced or the bumper repaired, and whether the sensors were calibrated afterwards.
No. NHTSA's classification in the guide mentioned above makes clear that the driver remains responsible for driving and attentive at all times, even with systems that combine speed control and steering. Even driver attention monitoring is a reminder to stop and rest, not a substitute for rest; if you feel drowsy on a long journey between cities, stop in a safe place.
Driver assistance systems add a useful layer of protection when you understand what each system does and its limits, and keep the sensors clean and calibrated after any repair. When browsing the cars listed by Saleh Cars Group, compare the assistance systems in each trim and ask how they work before you decide, because the final decision on the road always remains yours.

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Car brand logos are the badges and names each manufacturer places on the front grille, the boot lid and the centre of the steering wheel, and the easiest way to learn them is to group them by country of origin: Japanese badges such as Toyota's three ovals, Korean ones such as Hyundai's slanted H, and Chinese brands, many of which spell out their full name in Latin letters, alongside German, European and American badges. In this guide you will find each brand's name as it is written and said, a short description of its badge, its meaning where it is documented, and a table for quick comparison.
A car badge (the logo or emblem) is the trademark that identifies the manufacturer, and it usually appears in several places:
Badges fall into two types: a standalone symbol such as a star, rings or a lion, or a name spelled out in letters, as with many American and new Chinese brands, and knowing this difference helps you recognise a car from a distance.
Japanese badges are very familiar on the Kingdom's roads, and most are simple symbols that are easy to remember:
Chinese cars have become familiar in the Saudi market, and their best-known badges include:
Many Chinese brands have appeared in recent years, some cannot be recognised from the badge alone, and here are practical ways to tell them apart:
European badges often rely on old symbols with well-known stories:
American badges tend towards written names and simple shapes:
A quick summary of each brand's badge:
| Brand | Country of origin | Badge description |
| Toyota | Japan | Three ovals |
| Nissan | Japan | Name inside a thin circle |
| Honda | Japan | Upright letter H |
| Mitsubishi | Japan | Three red diamonds |
| Hyundai | Korea | Slanted H in an oval |
| Kia | Korea | The word KIA in a sharp script |
| Changan | China | V shape inside a circle |
| Chery | China | A-like symbol in an oval |
| Jetour | China | Name in Latin letters |
| Haval | China | HAVAL in large letters |
| MG | Britain (Chinese owner) | MG inside an octagon |
| BYD | China | The letters BYD |
| Mercedes-Benz | Germany | Three-pointed star in a circle |
| BMW | Germany | Circle with blue and white quarters |
| Audi | Germany | Four interlinked rings |
| Volkswagen | Germany | VW letters in a circle |
| Peugeot | France | Lion |
| Ford | USA | Blue oval |
| Chevrolet | USA | Gold bowtie |
| GMC | USA | Red GMC letters |
Car brand logos become easier to remember when you link each badge to its country and parent company, read the name written on the boot when in doubt, and check the registration card and the VIN before any purchase decision. You can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to get to know the different brands and models.

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Car spare parts fall into three main types: genuine parts (dealer parts) that carry the carmaker's brand or are made by its supplier to the same specification, aftermarket parts made by other companies with varying quality, and used parts from salvage yards (tashleeh) removed from other cars, while counterfeit parts that imitate the look and brand of genuine parts should be avoided completely. The practical rule: choose genuine or trusted high-quality aftermarket parts for safety items such as brakes, steering, suspension, airbags and tyres, accept good aftermarket parts for consumables like filters, wipers and bulbs, and always confirm the part number, keep the invoice and have the part fitted at a qualified workshop.
Parts may look alike, but they differ in their maker, specification and source; the table below summarises the types found in shops and workshops:
| Type | What it means | What sets it apart | What to watch for |
| Genuine (dealer) | A part carrying the carmaker's brand, sold through the dealer or its distributors | Matches factory specifications and has a clear source | Usually costs more and may need to be ordered |
| Original supplier (OES) | A part made by the supplier that supplies the carmaker, sold in its own box and brand | May match the genuine part's specifications | Do not assume a match; ask and compare the part number |
| Aftermarket | A part made by other companies to fit several models | More choice and often lower cost | Quality varies widely by manufacturer |
| Used (salvage) | A part removed from another car, possibly genuine originally | A solution for rare or discontinued parts | Unknown age and history, and it may carry no warranty |
| Counterfeit | A part that imitates the look, box and brand of the genuine part | No real advantage; the tempting price is the bait | A safety risk and commercial fraud |
The Technical Regulation for Auto Spare Parts issued by the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization defines original parts as parts designed and manufactured to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications, made either by the vehicle manufacturer itself or by a manufacturer working to the same specification and quality control system, while commercial parts are replacement parts made to international standards, country-of-origin standards or the parts manufacturer's own standards, so that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's performance requirements.
Because market terms are not standardised, and some sellers use the word genuine or the abbreviation OEM for parts that do not come from the dealer, ask clearly: who made the part? What is its number? What warranty does it carry?
Some parts are what stops the car, steers it or protects you in a crash, and they can fail suddenly. For these parts, do not make price the first criterion; choose genuine or an aftermarket part from a known manufacturer that meets the carmaker's specifications:
The same applies to parts whose failure can cause major damage to the engine or gearbox, such as the timing belt, where fitted, and the water pump.
An aftermarket part is not necessarily poor, as quality varies from one manufacturer to another, and it is often a reasonable choice for consumables that are replaced periodically and are easy to check, such as:
In every case, insist on three things: a known manufacturer with clear data on the box, a part number that matches yours or is an approved replacement for it, and a seller who gives you an invoice. Because these parts follow fixed intervals, tie their purchase to your periodic car maintenance schedule instead of waiting until they fail.
Salvage parts may be genuine originally, but they carry the age and usage of the car they came from, so they suit some cases and not others:
Before buying, inspect the part yourself: signs of impact, welding or rust, signs of flooding or fire, or cracks in rubber and plastic, and match its number with your part's number.
A counterfeit copies the look, box and brand of the genuine part but not its specification, and may seem convincing at first glance. Warning signs include:
The same regulation requires each package to show the manufacturer's name or trademark, the country of origin, and the part's designation or number as classified in the manufacturer's catalogue; missing data is a warning sign in itself.
The part number is the most precise way to make sure a part fits your car, because parts for the same model can differ by model year, trim and engine type.
Proper paperwork and correct fitting matter as much as the part itself:
The difference between genuine, aftermarket and used parts lies in the specification, the source and the paperwork, not the name: choose the best for safety parts, use good aftermarket parts for consumables, treat salvage parts with caution, and avoid counterfeits completely. To plan your car's maintenance, read how to choose the right maintenance to cut car costs and faults.