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The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor plays a critical role in engine efficiency and fuel consumption. However, when it fails, it can lead to serious issues to your car without prior warning. So, what are the common causes of failure, and how can they be prevented?
The MAF sensor consists of several main parts, including:
The MAF sensor is central to engine management. It provides real-time data on incoming air volume. Its key functions include:
A malfunctioning MAF sensor can lead to various issues affecting vehicle performance. Early detection of these signs can help diagnose the problem and take timely action. Key symptoms include:
Several factors can lead to MAF sensor failure, affecting its accuracy and efficiency. Common causes include:
To prevent MAF sensor damage, consider the following tips:

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To read a fuel economy label, start with the km/L value: the number of kilometres the car travels on one litre of fuel. The higher the number, the more economical the car. Next, make sure the label belongs to the exact model, model year and engine capacity you intend to buy, verify it through the Taakad app, and then divide your annual distance by the figure to estimate how many litres you will need each year. This guide explains the label's fields, how to compare and calculate with an illustrative example, and why your car's real-world consumption may differ from the printed figure.
A fuel economy label is a sticker you will find on new cars. It shows the model's fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, together with a level that rates this value. According to the Saudi Press Agency report on the Letabqa energy conservation campaign, the label classifies cars into seven levels: Excellent+, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Average, Poor and Very Poor. The top levels appear in dark green and the lowest in red.
There are two types of label, depending on how the vehicle is used: one for passenger cars such as sedans and minivans, and one for light trucks such as four-wheel drives, pickups and cargo vans. Pay attention to the label type when comparing, and compare cars of similar size and use wherever possible.
The label combines the vehicle's basic information with its fuel economy result. According to the same source, it includes:
Before focusing on the number, match these fields with the car in front of you, especially the model year, engine capacity and fuel type. A single model may come with more than one engine or trim, and each may have a different value. Take a clear photo of every label so the details do not get mixed up if you visit several showrooms.
The km/L figure tells you how far the car travels on one litre. A value of 18 km/L, for example, means the car covers 18 kilometres per litre according to the label value. With this unit, the higher number is better. When comparing:
The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization provides the Taakad app for checking fuel economy label and energy efficiency label information, and it can be downloaded free for iOS and Android devices. The steps, as described on the app's page and in the previous source, are:
The formula is simple: annual distance in kilometres ÷ fuel economy in km/L = estimated fuel in litres. To estimate your annual distance accurately, compare the dashboard odometer readings on two service records about a year apart, or take a typical week's distance and multiply it by the number of weeks in a year, then add the trips you know you will make.
Illustrative example: an annual distance of 20,000 km and two cars, the first rated at 15 km/L and the second at 20 km/L. These are hypothetical teaching figures only, not specifications of cars offered for sale.
| Item | First car | Second car |
|---|---|---|
| Assumed fuel economy | 15 km/L | 20 km/L |
| Annual distance | 20,000 km | 20,000 km |
| Calculation | 20,000 ÷ 15 | 20,000 ÷ 20 |
| Estimated quantity | About 1,333 litres | 1,000 litres |
The difference in this example is about 333 litres a year. To turn it into an amount of money, multiply each car's quantity by the price per litre of the fuel it needs at the time of comparison, then subtract the two results.
Some brochures, websites and dashboard displays show consumption in litres per 100 km, where the lower number is better. To convert, divide 100 by the km/L value; to convert back, divide 100 by the L/100 km value:
This unit reveals something many people overlook: the same increase in km/L saves more fuel when the starting value is low. In another illustrative example over 20,000 km, moving from 10 to 12 km/L saves about 333 litres, while moving from 20 to 22 km/L saves only about 91 litres. Do not compare a km/L figure with a figure in another unit, such as miles per gallon, before converting to the same unit.
The label figure is a reference value that helps you compare models, but it does not describe your own driving style or road conditions. The main things that change real-world consumption are:
Use the label for an initial comparison, then monitor your car's consumption over several refills. If consumption rises clearly and persistently above your usual level, read about the common causes of higher fuel consumption and arrange an inspection when needed, rather than assuming the label is wrong. If your car offers an economy driving mode, learn about the ECO system and whether it really saves fuel.
The most accurate home method is the full-tank method, and all you need is the dashboard trip meter and your fuel receipt:
The consumption reading on the trip computer is useful for daily monitoring, but it is an estimate and may differ slightly from the manual calculation, so rely on the manual calculation for long-term comparison.
The fuel economy label is a quick comparison tool if you read it in the right order: match the details, verify them through the Taakad app, then turn the figure into litres that fit your distance. When you compare cars at Saleh Cars Group, ask for the label of the version that interests you and calculate your own needs before deciding.

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Advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS) are a set of sensors, cameras and software that monitor the area around the car, warning you of a potential hazard or intervening in specific conditions by braking, steering or adjusting speed. Before buying, it is not enough to see a system's name in the specification sheet; ask exactly what it does, when it stops working and how to try it safely.
These systems usually rely on a camera behind the windscreen near the rear-view mirror, a radar behind the grille or front bumper, radars in the corners of the rear bumper, plus parking sensors and cameras around the body. The car's computer combines their signals to estimate distances, speeds and the car's position between the lane markings.
They differ from the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and the traction control system (TCS); those two monitor the wheels themselves, while ADAS monitors the road, vehicles and pedestrians around you, and many of these systems use the same brake system when they intervene.
The US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) explains in its guide to driver assistance technologies that some systems are designed only to warn you, while others take action to avoid a crash, and that manufacturers use different trade names for the same function; so rely on the function described in the owner's manual rather than the name.
| System | What it does |
|---|---|
| Forward Collision Warning (FCW) | Warning only when you close in quickly on a vehicle ahead. |
| Automatic Emergency Braking (AEB) | Intervention: supports your braking or brakes automatically if a collision appears imminent. |
| Lane Departure Warning (LDW) | Warning only when the car leaves its lane without a signal. |
| Lane Keeping Assist (LKA) | Intervention: gently corrects the steering to bring the car back into its lane. |
| Blind Spot Warning (BSW) | Warning by a signal in the mirror when there is a vehicle you cannot see. |
| Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) | Intervention: adjusts speed to keep a distance from the vehicle ahead. |
| Rear Cross Traffic Warning (RCTW) | Warning while reversing of a vehicle approaching from the side. |
| Surround-view camera | Visibility aid: a combined image of the car's surroundings while parking. |
| Driver attention monitoring | Warning when signs of drowsiness or distraction appear. |
Having a warning system does not mean a matching intervention is fitted; a trim may include blind spot warning without any steering or braking intervention, so ask for the system list for the exact trim and model year you will buy.
The NHTSA page on active braking technologies explains that these systems use radar, cameras and other sensors to detect vehicles, pedestrians or objects in front of the car, increasing braking force if your braking is insufficient, or braking automatically if you do not respond to the warning, with the aim of avoiding a collision or reducing its severity. This does not mean they prevent every collision in all conditions.
Ask when buying: does the system detect pedestrians and cyclists, or only vehicles? Does it work when reversing? And what speed range does it operate in according to the owner's manual? Never test it by deliberately approaching a car, a person or an obstacle.
The warning system only gives a sound or a vibration in the steering wheel when the car drifts across the lane markings, while the assist system gently corrects the steering, and in some cars may brake one of the wheels. Lane centring, by contrast, steers the car continuously while it is active, and usually works together with adaptive cruise control.
These systems depend on the camera seeing the road markings, so their performance weakens when the lines are faded or missing, as on some desert roads and in diversion zones, and many cars alert you if you take your hands off the wheel while they are active.
Standard cruise control keeps a fixed speed that you set, whereas the adaptive version slows down if you approach a slower vehicle, then returns to the set speed when the road clears, and in some cars it can stop and move off again in traffic.
Before using it, learn how to choose the following distance and how to cancel it with the brake pedal or the cancel button. Its braking ability is limited, and it may not respond as you expect to a stationary vehicle or a car that cuts in suddenly; so stay ready to brake yourself.
Blind spot monitoring alerts you with a light in the side mirror, some systems add a sound if you signal towards a lane with a vehicle in it. Rear cross traffic warning is useful when reversing out of a parking space between large vehicles that block your view.
The surround-view camera shows a combined image as if you were seeing the car from above, but it can distort distances at its edges and does not replace the mirrors and turning to look yourself.
Alongside the general steps in our new car buying guide, set aside part of the test drive for the assistance systems:
If a message says the system is unavailable, continue driving carefully without relying on it, clean the sensors with water and a soft cloth while keeping high-pressure water away from them, and if the message persists, have the car inspected.
The camera and radar are mounted at a precise angle, and even a small change can make the system misjudge distance or lane position. That is why the manufacturer may require the sensors to be checked or calibrated in cases such as:
Before any repair, ask the service centre about the calibration requirements for your car, and ask for proof that it was carried out. With a used car, ask whether the windscreen has been replaced or the bumper repaired, and whether the sensors were calibrated afterwards.
No. NHTSA's classification in the guide mentioned above makes clear that the driver remains responsible for driving and attentive at all times, even with systems that combine speed control and steering. Even driver attention monitoring is a reminder to stop and rest, not a substitute for rest; if you feel drowsy on a long journey between cities, stop in a safe place.
Driver assistance systems add a useful layer of protection when you understand what each system does and its limits, and keep the sensors clean and calibrated after any repair. When browsing the cars listed by Saleh Cars Group, compare the assistance systems in each trim and ask how they work before you decide, because the final decision on the road always remains yours.

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Vehicle ownership transfer in Saudi Arabia is done electronically through the vehicle sale service on the Absher platform, without visiting traffic offices: the seller enters the buyer's ID number and date of birth, the agreed sale price and the seller's bank account; the buyer then receives a notification of the request within one hour and accepts or declines it, transfers the price through Absher's secure payment system, insures the vehicle and pays the fees, and once the car is received, checked and the delivery is confirmed on Absher, ownership is officially transferred. Both parties must be registered on Absher, the vehicle registration (istimara), periodic inspection and insurance must be valid, and there must be no violations on the buyer or the vehicle.
The Ministry of Interior offers the vehicle sale service through the Absher platform, and the National Platform describes it as a service that enables individuals to sell their private vehicles and transfer ownership electronically after its dues are cleared, after reaching an agreement with the buyer and completing all required procedures, including vehicle inspection to ensure compliance with conditions, registering the vehicle under the buyer's identity, and issuing the vehicle registration license.
Procedures and conditions may be updated from time to time, so confirm the latest steps on the Absher platform or the National Platform before you start.
Before the seller starts the request, both parties should review the conditions listed on the service page on Absher, as failing to meet any of them may stop the sale:
The page also mentions limits on the number of vehicles of certain types that a resident may own, so review them on Absher if the buyer is a resident. If the periodic inspection is close to expiring, prepare the car early using the checklist on how to prepare your car for the periodic inspection.
After agreeing with the buyer on the price and other terms, the seller starts the request with these steps, as set out by the National Platform:
Ownership does not pass to the buyer until they complete their steps on the platform, which according to the National Platform are:
The table below summarises the role of each party at every stage of the sale:
| Stage | Seller | Buyer |
| Before starting | Agree on the price and terms, and check the istimara, periodic inspection and insurance are valid | Register on Absher and make sure there are no violations on them |
| Creating the request | Enter the buyer's ID, date of birth, price and bank account, then confirm | Wait for the Absher notification |
| Responding | Wait for acceptance or refusal | Review the details and accept or decline the request within one hour |
| Payment | Receive the price in the bank account entered in the request | Transfer the price through Absher's secure payment system |
| Insurance and fees | The platform lists no step for the seller at this stage | Insure the vehicle and pay the government fees and Absher fees |
| Delivery | Hand the vehicle over to the buyer after they accept the sale | Receive and check the vehicle, then confirm delivery on Absher |
If you are handing your car over to a family member, Absher has a separate service called vehicle ownership transfer between family members, which allows vehicle ownership to be waived between family members electronically once the current owner and the new owner agree. The National Platform lists its steps as follows:
The platform organises the procedure, but it does not replace inspecting the car yourself; the service page on Absher states that the sale takes place after the vehicle has been viewed and inspected and the seller and buyer have agreed. Here are practical tips before accepting the request:
Transferring car ownership through Absher is a clear process if you prepare for it: check the conditions, agree on the price, inspect the car before accepting, pay through the platform's secure payment system, and do not confirm delivery before checking the car. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.

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Car brand logos are the badges and names each manufacturer places on the front grille, the boot lid and the centre of the steering wheel, and the easiest way to learn them is to group them by country of origin: Japanese badges such as Toyota's three ovals, Korean ones such as Hyundai's slanted H, and Chinese brands, many of which spell out their full name in Latin letters, alongside German, European and American badges. In this guide you will find each brand's name as it is written and said, a short description of its badge, its meaning where it is documented, and a table for quick comparison.
A car badge (the logo or emblem) is the trademark that identifies the manufacturer, and it usually appears in several places:
Badges fall into two types: a standalone symbol such as a star, rings or a lion, or a name spelled out in letters, as with many American and new Chinese brands, and knowing this difference helps you recognise a car from a distance.
Japanese badges are very familiar on the Kingdom's roads, and most are simple symbols that are easy to remember:
Chinese cars have become familiar in the Saudi market, and their best-known badges include:
Many Chinese brands have appeared in recent years, some cannot be recognised from the badge alone, and here are practical ways to tell them apart:
European badges often rely on old symbols with well-known stories:
American badges tend towards written names and simple shapes:
A quick summary of each brand's badge:
| Brand | Country of origin | Badge description |
| Toyota | Japan | Three ovals |
| Nissan | Japan | Name inside a thin circle |
| Honda | Japan | Upright letter H |
| Mitsubishi | Japan | Three red diamonds |
| Hyundai | Korea | Slanted H in an oval |
| Kia | Korea | The word KIA in a sharp script |
| Changan | China | V shape inside a circle |
| Chery | China | A-like symbol in an oval |
| Jetour | China | Name in Latin letters |
| Haval | China | HAVAL in large letters |
| MG | Britain (Chinese owner) | MG inside an octagon |
| BYD | China | The letters BYD |
| Mercedes-Benz | Germany | Three-pointed star in a circle |
| BMW | Germany | Circle with blue and white quarters |
| Audi | Germany | Four interlinked rings |
| Volkswagen | Germany | VW letters in a circle |
| Peugeot | France | Lion |
| Ford | USA | Blue oval |
| Chevrolet | USA | Gold bowtie |
| GMC | USA | Red GMC letters |
Car brand logos become easier to remember when you link each badge to its country and parent company, read the name written on the boot when in doubt, and check the registration card and the VIN before any purchase decision. You can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group to get to know the different brands and models.

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Car spare parts fall into three main types: genuine parts (dealer parts) that carry the carmaker's brand or are made by its supplier to the same specification, aftermarket parts made by other companies with varying quality, and used parts from salvage yards (tashleeh) removed from other cars, while counterfeit parts that imitate the look and brand of genuine parts should be avoided completely. The practical rule: choose genuine or trusted high-quality aftermarket parts for safety items such as brakes, steering, suspension, airbags and tyres, accept good aftermarket parts for consumables like filters, wipers and bulbs, and always confirm the part number, keep the invoice and have the part fitted at a qualified workshop.
Parts may look alike, but they differ in their maker, specification and source; the table below summarises the types found in shops and workshops:
| Type | What it means | What sets it apart | What to watch for |
| Genuine (dealer) | A part carrying the carmaker's brand, sold through the dealer or its distributors | Matches factory specifications and has a clear source | Usually costs more and may need to be ordered |
| Original supplier (OES) | A part made by the supplier that supplies the carmaker, sold in its own box and brand | May match the genuine part's specifications | Do not assume a match; ask and compare the part number |
| Aftermarket | A part made by other companies to fit several models | More choice and often lower cost | Quality varies widely by manufacturer |
| Used (salvage) | A part removed from another car, possibly genuine originally | A solution for rare or discontinued parts | Unknown age and history, and it may carry no warranty |
| Counterfeit | A part that imitates the look, box and brand of the genuine part | No real advantage; the tempting price is the bait | A safety risk and commercial fraud |
The Technical Regulation for Auto Spare Parts issued by the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization defines original parts as parts designed and manufactured to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications, made either by the vehicle manufacturer itself or by a manufacturer working to the same specification and quality control system, while commercial parts are replacement parts made to international standards, country-of-origin standards or the parts manufacturer's own standards, so that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's performance requirements.
Because market terms are not standardised, and some sellers use the word genuine or the abbreviation OEM for parts that do not come from the dealer, ask clearly: who made the part? What is its number? What warranty does it carry?
Some parts are what stops the car, steers it or protects you in a crash, and they can fail suddenly. For these parts, do not make price the first criterion; choose genuine or an aftermarket part from a known manufacturer that meets the carmaker's specifications:
The same applies to parts whose failure can cause major damage to the engine or gearbox, such as the timing belt, where fitted, and the water pump.
An aftermarket part is not necessarily poor, as quality varies from one manufacturer to another, and it is often a reasonable choice for consumables that are replaced periodically and are easy to check, such as:
In every case, insist on three things: a known manufacturer with clear data on the box, a part number that matches yours or is an approved replacement for it, and a seller who gives you an invoice. Because these parts follow fixed intervals, tie their purchase to your periodic car maintenance schedule instead of waiting until they fail.
Salvage parts may be genuine originally, but they carry the age and usage of the car they came from, so they suit some cases and not others:
Before buying, inspect the part yourself: signs of impact, welding or rust, signs of flooding or fire, or cracks in rubber and plastic, and match its number with your part's number.
A counterfeit copies the look, box and brand of the genuine part but not its specification, and may seem convincing at first glance. Warning signs include:
The same regulation requires each package to show the manufacturer's name or trademark, the country of origin, and the part's designation or number as classified in the manufacturer's catalogue; missing data is a warning sign in itself.
The part number is the most precise way to make sure a part fits your car, because parts for the same model can differ by model year, trim and engine type.
Proper paperwork and correct fitting matter as much as the part itself:
The difference between genuine, aftermarket and used parts lies in the specification, the source and the paperwork, not the name: choose the best for safety parts, use good aftermarket parts for consumables, treat salvage parts with caution, and avoid counterfeits completely. To plan your car's maintenance, read how to choose the right maintenance to cut car costs and faults.

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The difference between the two types of car insurance in Saudi Arabia is that third-party insurance, which is the compulsory insurance, compensates the third party for the physical and material damage your vehicle causes and does not cover your own car, while comprehensive insurance compensates you for damage or loss to your car, including fire, theft, floods and hail, and also includes liability towards third parties. Here we explain what each type covers and excludes as stated in the official documents, what the deductible means, and how to choose the right policy.
These are the main differences as stated in the Saudi Central Bank documents; the details follow in the next sections:
| Item | Third-party | Comprehensive |
| Status | Compulsory | Not compulsory; includes third-party liability cover |
| Physical and material damage to third parties | Covered within the policy limits | Covered as per the unified policy |
| Damage to your car in an accident you cause | Excluded | Covered after deducting the deductible |
| Fire, theft, floods and hail | Not covered for your car | Included |
| Towing your damaged car and storing it | Not provided for | Included up to the amount stated in the schedule |
| Death or injury of the driver | Excluded | An optional cover offered before the policy is issued |
The Unified Compulsory Motor Insurance Policy sets the minimum limit of civil liability cover towards third parties. If an accident occurs within the borders of the Kingdom and causes damage that is not excluded, the insurer compensates the third party for what the insured, the driver or the person responsible for the accident is liable to pay for:
A third party is anyone who suffers damage that is not excluded, other than the insured or the driver responsible for the accident; so this insurance protects others from your mistakes and does not repair your car. Subject to the exceptions, the insurer may not refuse to compensate the injured party because of a violation committed by the driver, but it keeps the right to recover from them in cases set out in the policy, such as driving against traffic, running a red light, and driving without a licence suitable for the type of vehicle.
Cases the unified policy excludes from compensation include:
According to the Comprehensive Motor Insurance Rules, the company compensates the insured for any risk causing damage or loss to the vehicle, including fire, theft, lightning and natural disasters such as floods and hail, in addition to third-party civil liability as per the unified policy. Compensation works as follows:
Before issuing the policy, the company must offer you optional covers: renting a replacement vehicle, roadside assistance, death, injuries and medical expenses of the driver or named driver, and accidents outside the Kingdom; any you decline become excluded.
The main exclusions in the rules include:
The company and the insured may agree to waive any exclusion unless that conflicts with the law, so ask about the ones that matter to you before signing.
The rules define the deductible as the amount borne by the insured for any claim as stated in the policy schedule, and they control how it is applied:
In practice, it is what you will pay out of your own pocket in every accident you are liable for, so compare offers by it as well, not by the policy cost alone.
The decision depends on whether you could bear the cost of repairing or losing your car yourself, so review these factors:
The policy schedule is an integral part of the policy, so check:
These provisions may be updated, so confirm the latest version on the official website of the Insurance Authority, and the terms of your policy with a licensed insurance company.
In short: third-party insurance is the compulsory minimum that protects others from damage caused by your vehicle, and comprehensive insurance adds protection for your own car in return for a deductible you agree on. Choose according to your car's value, its financing and how you use it, and read the policy schedule before you pay. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.