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To jump-start a car you need jumper cables and another car with a healthy battery, or a charged portable jump starter. Connect the red cable to the positive terminal on both batteries, and the black cable to the negative terminal on the helper car and to an unpainted metal point on the engine of the car that will not start, then run the helper car for a few minutes before starting yours. The correct order is what protects you from sparks and protects the electrical systems of both cars from damage. If your battery keeps giving you this problem, first read about the symptoms of car battery failure and how to extend its life; here, we explain how to jump-start a car in practice, step by step.
A portable jump starter saves you from waiting for another car, and it is useful on desert trips and roads between cities, but it has steps that must be followed.
Jump-starting a car is simple if you stick to the correct order and safety precautions: red on positive first, the last black clamp on a metal point away from the battery, and disconnecting in reverse order. Always keep jumper cables or a portable jump starter in your car, and treat repeatedly needing a jump-start as a signal to check the battery and charging system before it leaves you stranded somewhere remote.

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Car spare parts fall into three main types: genuine parts (dealer parts) that carry the carmaker's brand or are made by its supplier to the same specification, aftermarket parts made by other companies with varying quality, and used parts from salvage yards (tashleeh) removed from other cars, while counterfeit parts that imitate the look and brand of genuine parts should be avoided completely. The practical rule: choose genuine or trusted high-quality aftermarket parts for safety items such as brakes, steering, suspension, airbags and tyres, accept good aftermarket parts for consumables like filters, wipers and bulbs, and always confirm the part number, keep the invoice and have the part fitted at a qualified workshop.
Parts may look alike, but they differ in their maker, specification and source; the table below summarises the types found in shops and workshops:
| Type | What it means | What sets it apart | What to watch for |
| Genuine (dealer) | A part carrying the carmaker's brand, sold through the dealer or its distributors | Matches factory specifications and has a clear source | Usually costs more and may need to be ordered |
| Original supplier (OES) | A part made by the supplier that supplies the carmaker, sold in its own box and brand | May match the genuine part's specifications | Do not assume a match; ask and compare the part number |
| Aftermarket | A part made by other companies to fit several models | More choice and often lower cost | Quality varies widely by manufacturer |
| Used (salvage) | A part removed from another car, possibly genuine originally | A solution for rare or discontinued parts | Unknown age and history, and it may carry no warranty |
| Counterfeit | A part that imitates the look, box and brand of the genuine part | No real advantage; the tempting price is the bait | A safety risk and commercial fraud |
The Technical Regulation for Auto Spare Parts issued by the Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization defines original parts as parts designed and manufactured to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications, made either by the vehicle manufacturer itself or by a manufacturer working to the same specification and quality control system, while commercial parts are replacement parts made to international standards, country-of-origin standards or the parts manufacturer's own standards, so that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's performance requirements.
Because market terms are not standardised, and some sellers use the word genuine or the abbreviation OEM for parts that do not come from the dealer, ask clearly: who made the part? What is its number? What warranty does it carry?
Some parts are what stops the car, steers it or protects you in a crash, and they can fail suddenly. For these parts, do not make price the first criterion; choose genuine or an aftermarket part from a known manufacturer that meets the carmaker's specifications:
The same applies to parts whose failure can cause major damage to the engine or gearbox, such as the timing belt, where fitted, and the water pump.
An aftermarket part is not necessarily poor, as quality varies from one manufacturer to another, and it is often a reasonable choice for consumables that are replaced periodically and are easy to check, such as:
In every case, insist on three things: a known manufacturer with clear data on the box, a part number that matches yours or is an approved replacement for it, and a seller who gives you an invoice. Because these parts follow fixed intervals, tie their purchase to your periodic car maintenance schedule instead of waiting until they fail.
Salvage parts may be genuine originally, but they carry the age and usage of the car they came from, so they suit some cases and not others:
Before buying, inspect the part yourself: signs of impact, welding or rust, signs of flooding or fire, or cracks in rubber and plastic, and match its number with your part's number.
A counterfeit copies the look, box and brand of the genuine part but not its specification, and may seem convincing at first glance. Warning signs include:
The same regulation requires each package to show the manufacturer's name or trademark, the country of origin, and the part's designation or number as classified in the manufacturer's catalogue; missing data is a warning sign in itself.
The part number is the most precise way to make sure a part fits your car, because parts for the same model can differ by model year, trim and engine type.
Proper paperwork and correct fitting matter as much as the part itself:
The difference between genuine, aftermarket and used parts lies in the specification, the source and the paperwork, not the name: choose the best for safety parts, use good aftermarket parts for consumables, treat salvage parts with caution, and avoid counterfeits completely. To plan your car's maintenance, read how to choose the right maintenance to cut car costs and faults.

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Should you buy your car in cash or with financing? Paying cash usually means you pay the lowest total amount and own the car immediately with no monthly commitments, but it can drain your savings. Financing lets you get the car now and spread its price over installments, but what you pay in the end is usually higher because of the financing cost and fees. The right decision depends on your savings, the stability of your income, and the total cost of each option, not on the monthly installment alone. In this article we compare the two methods and explain how to calculate the cost, compare offers, and read the contract before signing.
When you buy in cash, you pay the full price of the car at the time of purchase and the financial relationship with the seller ends. When you buy with financing or installments, you pay part of the price as a down payment, the rest is split into monthly installments over a period set by the contract, and the financing cost is added to it.
Do not compare the cash price with the monthly installment; compare the total amount that will come out of your pocket with each option.
There is no single best option for everyone; cash saves you the financing cost, and installments give you flexibility. Calculate the total amount in both cases, keep an emergency reserve for yourself, and read the whole contract before signing. Once you have set your budget, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and choose what suits your needs.

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To read a fuel economy label, start with the km/L value: the number of kilometres the car travels on one litre of fuel. The higher the number, the more economical the car. Next, make sure the label belongs to the exact model, model year and engine capacity you intend to buy, verify it through the Taakad app, and then divide your annual distance by the figure to estimate how many litres you will need each year. This guide explains the label's fields, how to compare and calculate with an illustrative example, and why your car's real-world consumption may differ from the printed figure.
A fuel economy label is a sticker you will find on new cars. It shows the model's fuel economy value in kilometres per litre, together with a level that rates this value. According to the Saudi Press Agency report on the Letabqa energy conservation campaign, the label classifies cars into seven levels: Excellent+, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Average, Poor and Very Poor. The top levels appear in dark green and the lowest in red.
There are two types of label, depending on how the vehicle is used: one for passenger cars such as sedans and minivans, and one for light trucks such as four-wheel drives, pickups and cargo vans. Pay attention to the label type when comparing, and compare cars of similar size and use wherever possible.
The label combines the vehicle's basic information with its fuel economy result. According to the same source, it includes:
Before focusing on the number, match these fields with the car in front of you, especially the model year, engine capacity and fuel type. A single model may come with more than one engine or trim, and each may have a different value. Take a clear photo of every label so the details do not get mixed up if you visit several showrooms.
The km/L figure tells you how far the car travels on one litre. A value of 18 km/L, for example, means the car covers 18 kilometres per litre according to the label value. With this unit, the higher number is better. When comparing:
The Saudi Standards, Metrology and Quality Organization provides the Taakad app for checking fuel economy label and energy efficiency label information, and it can be downloaded free for iOS and Android devices. The steps, as described on the app's page and in the previous source, are:
The formula is simple: annual distance in kilometres ÷ fuel economy in km/L = estimated fuel in litres. To estimate your annual distance accurately, compare the dashboard odometer readings on two service records about a year apart, or take a typical week's distance and multiply it by the number of weeks in a year, then add the trips you know you will make.
Illustrative example: an annual distance of 20,000 km and two cars, the first rated at 15 km/L and the second at 20 km/L. These are hypothetical teaching figures only, not specifications of cars offered for sale.
| Item | First car | Second car |
|---|---|---|
| Assumed fuel economy | 15 km/L | 20 km/L |
| Annual distance | 20,000 km | 20,000 km |
| Calculation | 20,000 ÷ 15 | 20,000 ÷ 20 |
| Estimated quantity | About 1,333 litres | 1,000 litres |
The difference in this example is about 333 litres a year. To turn it into an amount of money, multiply each car's quantity by the price per litre of the fuel it needs at the time of comparison, then subtract the two results.
Some brochures, websites and dashboard displays show consumption in litres per 100 km, where the lower number is better. To convert, divide 100 by the km/L value; to convert back, divide 100 by the L/100 km value:
This unit reveals something many people overlook: the same increase in km/L saves more fuel when the starting value is low. In another illustrative example over 20,000 km, moving from 10 to 12 km/L saves about 333 litres, while moving from 20 to 22 km/L saves only about 91 litres. Do not compare a km/L figure with a figure in another unit, such as miles per gallon, before converting to the same unit.
The label figure is a reference value that helps you compare models, but it does not describe your own driving style or road conditions. The main things that change real-world consumption are:
Use the label for an initial comparison, then monitor your car's consumption over several refills. If consumption rises clearly and persistently above your usual level, read about the common causes of higher fuel consumption and arrange an inspection when needed, rather than assuming the label is wrong. If your car offers an economy driving mode, learn about the ECO system and whether it really saves fuel.
The most accurate home method is the full-tank method, and all you need is the dashboard trip meter and your fuel receipt:
The consumption reading on the trip computer is useful for daily monitoring, but it is an estimate and may differ slightly from the manual calculation, so rely on the manual calculation for long-term comparison.
The fuel economy label is a quick comparison tool if you read it in the right order: match the details, verify them through the Taakad app, then turn the figure into litres that fit your distance. When you compare cars at Saleh Cars Group, ask for the label of the version that interests you and calculate your own needs before deciding.

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The difference between car trim levels is the difference in the equipment a manufacturer fits to the same model: the engine, transmission and drivetrain, safety and driver assistance systems, comfort and air conditioning, wheel and tyre size, and the screen and infotainment. Labels such as “standard” and “fully loaded” are not consistent between manufacturers, so a fair comparison depends on the official trim name, the model year and the written specification sheet. Here we explain where trims differ and how to compare them with a table, without paying for features you will not use.
A trim is a version of the same model with an equipment package set by the manufacturer; a model usually starts with a base trim, each higher trim adds a group of features, and trims may also differ in the engine or exterior styling.
If you are at the start of the buying process, begin with our new car buying guide to set your budget and choose the type of car, then return to this article to compare trims in detail.
On many models every trim shares the same engine, but some offer a larger, turbocharged or hybrid engine on higher trims. When the mechanical components differ, they matter more than any cosmetic extra, because they affect performance, fuel consumption and maintenance for as long as you own the car.
A phrase such as “comprehensive safety features” is not enough; ask for the names of the systems fitted to each trim and understand what each one does: does it only warn the driver, or does it intervene with braking or steering?
These systems assist the driver and do not replace attention, and dust on the sensors can affect how they work.
Some comfort features help you every day in the Saudi climate, while others you may rarely use even though they raise the trim's price.
Higher trims often come with larger wheels and tyres with a lower sidewall, which gives a sportier look but does not necessarily mean more comfort.
A large screen is one of the most visible differences between trims, but its real value lies in how easy it is to use while driving.
There is no fixed rule; resale value depends on market demand for the model and trim, and on the car's condition and service history.
Put the trims you are considering in one table and write against each item what is confirmed on the specification sheet, not what you heard or saw in an advert. Here is a template you can copy:
| Item | What to record for each trim | Question to check |
|---|---|---|
| Identification | Official trim name and model year | Does the car on offer match the written quotation? |
| Mechanical | Engine, transmission and drivetrain | Does fuel consumption differ? |
| Safety | System names and what each one does | Is the feature standard or part of an optional package? |
| Comfort | Air conditioning, seats and keyless entry | Will you use it every day? |
| Wheels and tyres | Tyre size and spare | Is the size easy to find? |
| Infotainment | Screen and phone connection | Have you tried it yourself? |
| Offer | Price difference between trims | Which confirmed features do you get for that difference? |
The money you save on luxuries may be more useful for maintenance, insurance or a smaller finance amount.
No. It is a sales description that varies from model to model and from year to year; ask for the official trim name and its detailed equipment list, and check every feature that matters to you.
If space and seating are the priority, the larger model suits you better; if equipment matters more and the space is enough, the top trim of the smaller model may suit you.
Some accessories can be fitted later, but many driver assistance systems depend on factory sensors and software and are not easy to add, so ask how any modification affects the warranty.
They help you understand the general idea and prepare your questions, but verify the specifications of the car offered to you, because the model year, market or trim may differ.
The right trim is neither the cheapest nor the most expensive; it is the lowest trim that covers your essential needs with written, confirmed specifications. Put the mechanical components and safety first, then the comfort you will use every day, and leave luxuries at the bottom of the list. When your table is ready, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group and compare their trims in the same way.

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Vehicle ownership transfer in Saudi Arabia is done electronically through the vehicle sale service on the Absher platform, without visiting traffic offices: the seller enters the buyer's ID number and date of birth, the agreed sale price and the seller's bank account; the buyer then receives a notification of the request within one hour and accepts or declines it, transfers the price through Absher's secure payment system, insures the vehicle and pays the fees, and once the car is received, checked and the delivery is confirmed on Absher, ownership is officially transferred. Both parties must be registered on Absher, the vehicle registration (istimara), periodic inspection and insurance must be valid, and there must be no violations on the buyer or the vehicle.
The Ministry of Interior offers the vehicle sale service through the Absher platform, and the National Platform describes it as a service that enables individuals to sell their private vehicles and transfer ownership electronically after its dues are cleared, after reaching an agreement with the buyer and completing all required procedures, including vehicle inspection to ensure compliance with conditions, registering the vehicle under the buyer's identity, and issuing the vehicle registration license.
Procedures and conditions may be updated from time to time, so confirm the latest steps on the Absher platform or the National Platform before you start.
Before the seller starts the request, both parties should review the conditions listed on the service page on Absher, as failing to meet any of them may stop the sale:
The page also mentions limits on the number of vehicles of certain types that a resident may own, so review them on Absher if the buyer is a resident. If the periodic inspection is close to expiring, prepare the car early using the checklist on how to prepare your car for the periodic inspection.
After agreeing with the buyer on the price and other terms, the seller starts the request with these steps, as set out by the National Platform:
Ownership does not pass to the buyer until they complete their steps on the platform, which according to the National Platform are:
The table below summarises the role of each party at every stage of the sale:
| Stage | Seller | Buyer |
| Before starting | Agree on the price and terms, and check the istimara, periodic inspection and insurance are valid | Register on Absher and make sure there are no violations on them |
| Creating the request | Enter the buyer's ID, date of birth, price and bank account, then confirm | Wait for the Absher notification |
| Responding | Wait for acceptance or refusal | Review the details and accept or decline the request within one hour |
| Payment | Receive the price in the bank account entered in the request | Transfer the price through Absher's secure payment system |
| Insurance and fees | The platform lists no step for the seller at this stage | Insure the vehicle and pay the government fees and Absher fees |
| Delivery | Hand the vehicle over to the buyer after they accept the sale | Receive and check the vehicle, then confirm delivery on Absher |
If you are handing your car over to a family member, Absher has a separate service called vehicle ownership transfer between family members, which allows vehicle ownership to be waived between family members electronically once the current owner and the new owner agree. The National Platform lists its steps as follows:
The platform organises the procedure, but it does not replace inspecting the car yourself; the service page on Absher states that the sale takes place after the vehicle has been viewed and inspected and the seller and buyer have agreed. Here are practical tips before accepting the request:
Transferring car ownership through Absher is a clear process if you prepare for it: check the conditions, agree on the price, inspect the car before accepting, pay through the platform's secure payment system, and do not confirm delivery before checking the car. If you are looking for your next car, you can browse the cars available at Saleh Cars Group.

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To buy a new car with confidence and without surprises, set your full budget rather than just the car's price, choose the body type and trim that suit your daily use, take a test drive yourself, ask for a written quotation that clearly states the warranty and everything the price includes, and inspect the car carefully before taking delivery. In this guide we explain these steps in order, from planning to the first service, keeping in mind the needs of drivers in the Kingdom, from summer heat to long highway trips between cities.
A realistic budget does not stop at the car's showroom price; it includes everything you will pay to own and run it during the first years.
Start from how you will use the car, not from how it looks; the right car for an employee commuting within the city differs from the right car for a large family that often travels between cities.
A single model usually comes in several trims that differ in equipment and engine, and the gap between them can be significant in both price and everyday use.
Even a new car can pick up a scratch or a minor defect during shipping or storage, so set aside enough time to inspect it before signing for delivery.
Buying a new car is a big decision, and good planning saves you a lot of money and regret. Set your full budget, choose what suits your use, and test, read, and inspect before you sign. When you are ready, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and compare models and trims at your own pace.