Should you buy your car in cash or with financing? Paying cash usually means you pay the lowest total amount and own the car immediately with no monthly commitments, but it can drain your savings. Financing lets you get the car now and spread its price over installments, but what you pay in the end is usually higher because of the financing cost and fees. The right decision depends on your savings, the stability of your income, and the total cost of each option, not on the monthly installment alone. In this article we compare the two methods and explain how to calculate the cost, compare offers, and read the contract before signing.

What is the difference between buying a car in cash and with financing?

When you buy in cash, you pay the full price of the car at the time of purchase and the financial relationship with the seller ends. When you buy with financing or installments, you pay part of the price as a down payment, the rest is split into monthly installments over a period set by the contract, and the financing cost is added to it.

• Cash: one amount paid once, with no monthly installments and no financing cost.
• Financing: a down payment smaller than the car's price, followed by monthly installments that are usually fixed until the end of the term.
• Some finance contracts include a final payment larger than the installments at the end of the term; it lowers the monthly installment but does not cancel the amount.
• In both cases, you still carry the same running costs, such as fuel, insurance, and scheduled maintenance.

 

What are the pros and cons of buying a car in cash?

• You usually pay the lowest possible total, because you carry no financing cost or related fees.
• You own the car immediately and can sell or trade it in whenever you like without going back to any party.
• There is no monthly commitment putting pressure on your budget if your income changes or unexpected expenses come up.
• Paying cash may give you a better chance to negotiate, or to benefit from cash-payment offers if available.
• On the other hand, buying in cash can drain your savings and leave you without enough of an emergency reserve.
• The amount you have may also push you toward a car that is less than you need, or make you delay the purchase until your savings are complete.

 

What are the pros and cons of buying a car with financing?

• You get the car now without waiting until you have saved its full price.
• You keep part of your savings for emergencies or other priorities in your life.
• The price is spread over installments known in advance, making it easier to plan your monthly budget.
• On the other hand, the total you pay is higher than the car's cash price in most cases, because of the financing cost and fees.
• The installment commits you for years, and any change in your income can turn it into a heavy burden.
• Financing may require a certain type of insurance throughout the term, and there may be restrictions on selling the car before full payment, depending on the contract.

 

How do you calculate the total cost of the car in both cases?

Do not compare the cash price with the monthly installment; compare the total amount that will come out of your pocket with each option.

1. For cash: add the car's price to the registration fees, the extras you will buy, and the cost of insurance.
2. For financing: add the down payment, the monthly installment multiplied by the number of months, the final payment if any, the administrative fees, and the cost of insurance for the whole term of the contract.
3. Subtract the car's cash price from the financing total; the difference is the real cost of getting the car now instead of waiting.
4. Add the expected running costs of fuel and maintenance; they are similar under both options, but they affect your ability to pay the installment. If fuel consumption matters for your budget, check our list of the best fuel-efficient cars.
5. Work out how much of your savings will remain after each option, and make sure it is enough for emergencies.

 

How do you compare car finance offers?

1. Ask each provider for a written offer for the same car, with the same term and the same down payment, so the comparison is fair.
2. Compare the total amount paid and the overall financing cost, and do not settle for comparing the monthly installment.
3. Ask about all fees linked to the contract, such as administrative fees, the cost of insurance, and any other charges.
4. Pay attention to the effect of the term: a longer term lowers the installment, but it usually raises the total you pay.
5. Pay attention to the effect of the down payment and the final payment on both the installment and the total amount.
6. Ask about early settlement terms and the possibility of paying off the remaining amount before the end of the term.
7. Check the current car offers, as some offers include special benefits on financing or on cash payment.

 

What should you read in the finance contract before signing?

1. The car details in the contract: model, trim, model year, color, and VIN when available, and that they match what you agreed on.
2. The down payment amount, the number of installments, the value and due date of each installment, and the final payment if any.
3. The total amount you will pay until the end of the contract, clearly written.
4. What happens if an installment is late or you default on payments, and the consequences of that.
5. Insurance terms: its type, who bears its cost, and who receives the compensation in the event of an accident.
6. When ownership of the car passes to you, and whether you can sell or trade it in before the contract ends.
7. Early settlement terms and any fees or discounts linked to it.
8. Do not sign any paper with blank spaces, ask about every clause you do not understand, and keep a full copy of the contract and the installment schedule.

 

When is cash better for you, and when is financing better?

• Cash is better if you have the car's price available and still keep enough of an emergency reserve afterwards.
• Cash is also better if you prefer not to commit to installments, or if your income is not steady.
• Financing is better if you need the car now for your work or your family and do not want to drain all your savings.
• Financing suits you if your income is stable and the installment leaves comfortable room in your budget for fuel, maintenance, and emergencies.
• There is a middle option: a larger down payment from your savings with a shorter term, which lowers the total financing cost without draining everything you have.
• If your budget is limited either way, consider a less expensive car or a used car in good condition; before that, read our important tips before buying a used car.

 

What are the common mistakes when buying a car with financing?

• Choosing the car based only on the monthly installment, without calculating the total amount.
• Stretching the finance term to lower the installment, then paying a larger total in the end.
• Ignoring the final payment and not preparing for it as the end of the contract approaches.
• Forgetting the costs of insurance, fuel, and maintenance when working out your ability to pay.
• Putting all your savings into the down payment and leaving no emergency reserve.
• Signing quickly under the pressure of an offer, without reading the contract or comparing other offers.

 

Frequently asked questions about buying a car in cash or with financing

1. Is financing always more expensive than cash? Usually yes, because of the financing cost and fees, but some promotional offers may narrow the gap, so compare the total amount in each case.
2. Is a larger down payment better? It reduces the amount financed, and therefore usually reduces the installment and the financing cost, as long as it does not drain your emergency reserve.
3. Can I pay off the financing before the end of the term? That depends on the contract terms, so ask about early settlement and any fees or discounts linked to it before signing.
4. Can I sell a financed car before the installments end? The contract determines this, and it usually requires settling the remaining amount first or getting the finance provider's approval.
5. What matters more when comparing: the installment or the total amount? The total amount matters most; then make sure the installment fits comfortably in your monthly budget.

 

There is no single best option for everyone; cash saves you the financing cost, and installments give you flexibility. Calculate the total amount in both cases, keep an emergency reserve for yourself, and read the whole contract before signing. Once you have set your budget, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and choose what suits your needs.

To buy a new car with confidence and without surprises, set your full budget rather than just the car's price, choose the body type and trim that suit your daily use, take a test drive yourself, ask for a written quotation that clearly states the warranty and everything the price includes, and inspect the car carefully before taking delivery. In this guide we explain these steps in order, from planning to the first service, keeping in mind the needs of drivers in the Kingdom, from summer heat to long highway trips between cities.

How do you set your budget before buying a new car?

A realistic budget does not stop at the car's showroom price; it includes everything you will pay to own and run it during the first years.

• The price of the car itself, making sure whether it includes tax, registration, and plates or not.
• Insurance, whose cost varies with the type of car and the type of cover you choose.
• Monthly fuel consumption based on the distance you usually drive and the size and type of the engine.
• Scheduled maintenance, oil changes, tires, and battery replacement over the medium term.
• Extras you may want, such as window tint, paint protection, and floor mats.
• The payment method: paying in cash differs from paying in installments in the total you end up paying, so calculate the full cost in both cases.

 

What type of car suits your use?

Start from how you will use the car, not from how it looks; the right car for an employee commuting within the city differs from the right car for a large family that often travels between cities.

• A sedan usually suits daily use in the city, is easy to park, and its fuel consumption is typically moderate.
• SUVs offer more space and ground clearance, suit families and trips, and some come with four-wheel drive for those who head out to the desert.
• A pickup suits those who need to carry cargo or do field work, but it is usually less comfortable for everyday city driving.
• The number of seats matters if your family is large; some cars offer a third row of seats, so check the trunk space when it is in use.
• Powertrain: petrol, hybrid, or electric, each with its pros and cons; learn about the difference between hybrid and electric cars before you decide.
• If saving fuel is a priority for you, check our list of the best fuel-efficient cars to narrow down your options.

 

How do you compare a car's trims and specifications?

A single model usually comes in several trims that differ in equipment and engine, and the gap between them can be significant in both price and everyday use.

1. Ask for the specification sheet of the exact trim you will buy, and do not rely on photos or ads of a higher trim.
2. Put safety systems ahead of luxuries: airbags, ABS, stability and traction control, the reversing camera, and parking sensors.
3. Check the strength of the AC and whether there are rear AC vents if you carry passengers in the back seats, as this matters in the Kingdom's summer.
4. Compare the transmission type and engine size with what suits your driving on highways and inclines.
5. Pay attention to the size of the rims and tires; larger sizes may look better but can cost more to replace, and make sure there is a spare tire.
6. Do not pay for features you will not use; choose the trim that covers your actual needs.

 

What should you check during a test drive?

1. Adjust the seat, steering wheel, and mirrors, and make sure visibility in all directions is comfortable and clear.
2. Drive the car on a road you usually use, in the city and on a highway if possible.
3. Notice how smoothly the transmission shifts and how the accelerator responds when speeding up and overtaking.
4. Test the brakes and steering at low speeds and when parking, and listen for any unusual noises or vibrations.
5. Run the AC at full power and notice how quickly it cools and how noisy the cabin is.
6. Bring your family along if you can so they can try the rear seats, ease of getting in and out, and fitting child seats.

 

What should you read in the quotation and warranty before signing?

1. Ask for a written quotation that states the model, trim, model year, and color, and everything the price includes.
2. Make sure agreed extras such as tint or floor mats are written into the quotation, and do not settle for verbal promises.
3. Read the warranty terms: its duration and the distance it covers, the parts included and excluded, and the conditions for keeping it valid, such as sticking to the service schedule.
4. Ask about free service packages if any, roadside assistance, and the service centers near you.
5. Confirm the expected delivery date, and who handles registration, plates, and insurance.
6. Check the current car offers before signing, as you may find extra benefits on the model you want.

 

What should you inspect on a new car before taking delivery?

Even a new car can pick up a scratch or a minor defect during shipping or storage, so set aside enough time to inspect it before signing for delivery.

1. Inspect the paint in daylight for scratches or color differences, and check that the gaps between doors and fenders are even.
2. Match the vehicle identification number (VIN) on the car with the number written on the documents.
3. Make sure the odometer reading is low and consistent with a new car.
4. Test all electrical systems: lights, windows, screen, camera, sensors, and AC.
5. Check the manufacturing date and condition of the tires, and that the spare tire and tool kit are present.
6. Make sure you receive the owner's manual, the warranty booklet, and the spare key, and that no warning light stays on in the dashboard after starting.

 

What are the common mistakes when buying a new car?

• Buying on emotion or because of an ad before making sure the car suits your actual needs.
• Focusing only on the monthly installment and ignoring the total you will pay.
• Ignoring running costs such as fuel, insurance, and maintenance.
• Signing before reading the full contract and warranty terms.
• Skipping the test drive or settling for a short loop around the showroom.
• Taking delivery at night or in a hurry without inspecting the car properly.

 

How do you care for your new car in the first months?

1. Read the owner's manual, and follow any recommendations for the early driving period if the manufacturer mentions them.
2. Keep to the first service appointment and the regular maintenance schedule to keep the warranty valid.
3. Keep all maintenance invoices and records; they matter for the warranty and for the car's value when you sell it later.
4. Park in the shade or use a sunshade to protect the paint and cabin from the heat of the sun.
5. Check tire pressure regularly, especially before trips and during very hot periods.

 

Frequently asked questions about buying a new car

1. Is it better to buy a new or a used car? A new car gives you a warranty, a clean history, and peace of mind, while a used car usually costs less but needs a careful inspection; if you choose used, read our important tips before buying a used car.
2. Does a new car need an inspection before delivery? Yes, a simple but careful check at delivery reveals any scratch or missing accessory before you sign.
3. Does servicing outside the dealership affect the warranty? It depends on the written warranty terms, so ask about them before buying and always keep a maintenance record.
4. Are extras such as tint and paint protection necessary? They are optional and can be useful in the Kingdom's climate, but decide based on your needs and ask for them to be written clearly in the quotation.
5. How long should the decision to buy a new car take? There is no fixed period, but give yourself enough time to compare, test drive, and read the quotation instead of deciding in a single visit.

 

Buying a new car is a big decision, and good planning saves you a lot of money and regret. Set your full budget, choose what suits your use, and test, read, and inspect before you sign. When you are ready, browse the cars available at Saleh Cars and compare models and trims at your own pace.

Summer car care means focusing on the systems that heat strains the most: check the cooling system and radiator coolant, the battery, tire pressure, AC performance, and engine oil before the peak of the heat, and protect the paint and cabin from direct sun. The Kingdom's long summer, with its high temperatures, dust, and desert trips, doubles the strain on the car, and most summer breakdowns can be avoided with a simple, regular review. In this guide, we show you what to check and how to act if a problem appears on the road.

Why does your car need special care in the Saudi summer?

Air and asphalt temperatures rise sharply in the summer months, so the car's systems work in harsher conditions than usual, and the strain on them increases with traffic, hours of AC use, and long trips.

• The engine and cooling system work harder to get rid of heat, especially in traffic and during long stops with the AC running.
• Heat speeds up the evaporation of battery fluid and the corrosion of its terminals, shortening its life even if it seems fine.
• Hot asphalt raises tire temperature and internal pressure, and magnifies the effect of any weakness or crack in them.
• Direct sun and dust affect the paint, dashboard, seats, and glass.
• Any small fault becomes more serious in summer, because breaking down on a highway at midday is unpleasant and can be dangerous.

 

How do you protect the engine and cooling system from the heat?

The cooling system is the first line of defence in summer, and neglecting it is one of the most common causes of costly breakdowns in this season.

• Check the coolant level in the reservoir with the engine cold, and never open the radiator cap while the engine is hot.
• Use the type of coolant recommended in the owner's manual rather than plain water, and learn about the difference between red and green radiator coolant before topping up or mixing.
• Look at the radiator hoses: cracking, swelling, or excessive softness are signs that they need replacing.
• Make sure the radiator fan runs when the temperature rises or the AC is on, and clean insects and dust off the front of the radiator.
• Keep an eye on the temperature gauge on the dashboard; if it rises repeatedly, read about the main causes of car engine overheating and deal with the cause early.
• Stick to the engine oil change schedule in the owner's manual, as oil endures higher temperatures in summer and needs to be in good condition.

 

How is the heat linked to a weak battery, and how do you look after it?

Many people believe that batteries only struggle in winter, but summer heat speeds up their internal wear, and the weakness then appears suddenly at the first hard start.

• Have the battery tested by a technician or parts shop before summer, especially if it has been installed for a long time.
• Clean white or green corrosion off the terminals, and make sure the cables are tightened properly.
• Watch for a slow-cranking starter or dim lights, as these are early signs of weakness.
• Try to park the car in the shade whenever possible, as this reduces the heat in the engine bay.
• To learn the signs in detail and ways to extend its life, see our article on car battery failure symptoms and how to extend its life.

 

How do you keep the AC working efficiently in summer?

In summer, the AC is not a luxury, and any weakness in it shows quickly as temperatures rise; servicing it early before the season is easier than repairing it at the peak.

• When getting into a car that has been parked in the sun, open the windows slightly for the first minute to let the hot air out, then close them and switch on the AC.
• Replace the cabin air filter on time, as a filter clogged with dust weakens airflow and causes an unpleasant smell.
• If the air becomes less cold than usual, the cause may be low refrigerant, a leak, or a weak condenser fan, and it needs a technical check.
• Pay attention to any strange noise when the compressor engages, or the engine stalling at idle with the AC on.
• To understand AC faults and how to fix them in detail, read our article on the car air conditioning system and its faults.

 

How do you protect the tires from hot asphalt?

The tire is the only part that touches the hot asphalt directly, so it needs closer monitoring in summer, especially before a trip.

• Check the air pressure in the morning when the tires are cold, and set it to the value on the driver's door sticker.
• Do not let air out of a tire because it is hot after driving; the rise in pressure with heat is normal and accounted for.
• Check the sidewalls for cracks or bulges, as old rubber is affected more by sun and heat.
• Check the manufacturing date printed on the tire's sidewall, and consult a technician if the tire is old even if the tread looks good.
• Do not exceed the car's permitted load on summer trips, as overloading raises tire temperature.
• Do not forget to check the spare tire and the tools for changing it before any long trip.

 

How do you protect the paint and cabin from the sun?

Strong sunlight affects the car's appearance and value over time, and simple daily protection is better than repairs later.

• Park the car in the shade or under a canopy whenever possible, and use a suitable cover when parking for long periods.
• Place a sunshade on the windscreen to reduce cabin heat and protect the dashboard from cracking.
• Suitable window tint reduces the heat inside the cabin and protects the seats; learn about how the right window tint protects your car.
• Wash the car early in the morning or in the evening, and do not wash it while the surface is hot in the sun, so water spots do not remain.
• Rinse the dust off with water first after sandstorms, and do not wipe it off dry so it does not scratch the paint.
• Do not leave lighters, aerosol cans, plastic water bottles, or electronic devices inside the car, as extreme heat may damage them or make them dangerous.

 

What should you do if your car overheats while driving?

If you notice the temperature gauge rising or steam coming from the front of the car, acting calmly and quickly reduces the damage to the engine.

1. Switch off the AC immediately; you can temporarily run the heater at its highest setting to draw some heat away from the engine.
2. Stop in a safe place away from the traffic lanes, and switch on the hazard lights.
3. Turn off the engine if the gauge keeps rising or steam appears, and do not keep driving with the gauge in the red zone.
4. Do not open the radiator cap or the coolant reservoir while the engine is hot, and wait until it has cooled down completely.
5. Once the engine has cooled, check the coolant level and look for an obvious leak, then head to the nearest workshop or call for help.

 

Frequently asked questions about summer car care

• Does running the AC all the time harm the engine? No, if the cooling system is in good condition, but it adds load on the engine and battery, which is why maintenance matters more in summer.
• Should I change the engine oil earlier in summer? Follow the schedule in the owner's manual, and use the severe-conditions schedule, if there is one, if you drive a lot in traffic and extreme heat.
• Can I put plain water in the radiator when necessary? Only in an emergency and to reach the nearest workshop, then refill the system with the recommended coolant.
• Can tires burst because of the heat? Heat alone does not usually cause this, but it multiplies the risk of underinflated, old, or cracked tires.
• When should I check the car before a summer trip? A few days before the trip, so there is enough time to fix any issue with the cooling system, tires, or battery.

 

Summer in Saudi Arabia is a real test for every car, but most of its breakdowns start with small signs that can be noticed early. Review the cooling system, battery, tires, and AC before the peak of the heat, protect the paint and cabin from the sun, and never ignore the temperature gauge or any strange noise; with these simple habits, the summer months pass without surprises on the road.

To prepare your car for the periodic technical inspection, check it yourself a few days before the appointment: make sure all lights and signals work, the tires and brakes are in good condition, the dashboard is free of warning lights, and no visible smoke comes from the exhaust, then fix any minor issue before you go. This quick review saves you the time of a re-inspection and reveals faults that affect your safety before they affect the result. In this guide, we present a practical, ordered checklist that you can apply at home or with a technician you trust.

What is the periodic inspection and why prepare your car for it?

The periodic technical inspection is carried out by accredited centres to confirm that the car is roadworthy and safe for its driver and other road users, and it usually focuses on the basic safety systems, emissions, and vehicle identity, not on appearance or extras. The checklist in this article is a general self-check and not an official list of inspection criteria; the approved requirements of the competent authority are always the reference.

• Checking in advance reveals small faults such as a burnt-out bulb or a worn wiper, which are easy to fix before the appointment.
• It reduces the chance of failing the inspection on the first attempt, and the repair and return visit for a re-inspection that follow.
• It gives you a clear picture of the car's condition, especially if it is old or covers long distances.
• The periodic inspection does not replace routine maintenance; the first checks the minimum level of safety, while the second preserves the car's life and performance.

 

How do you make sure the lights and signals work before the inspection?

Lights are among the most common and easiest faults to fix, and you can check them in minutes with the help of someone standing outside the car, or by parking in front of a wall in a shaded spot and watching the reflection.

• Switch on the headlights in both low and high beam, and make sure both sides work with the same strength.
• Test the front, rear, and side turn signals and the hazard lights.
• Ask your helper to watch the brake lights when you press the pedal, including the high-mounted light if there is one.
• Make sure the reversing light and the rear number plate light work.
• If the headlight lenses are dull or yellowed, the light output may weaken, and they can be polished or replaced.
• Watch out for modified lights or lights that do not match the car's original specifications, as they may cause a remark at the inspection.

 

What should you check on the tires and brakes?

Tires and brakes are what connect your car to the road, so they usually receive a careful check, and any fault in them directly affects stopping distance and the car's stability.

• Check the tread depth by looking at the wear indicators inside the grooves, and replace the tire if the wear has reached them.
• Look for cracks in the sidewalls, bulges, or cuts, as these are signs that the tire needs replacing straight away.
• Set the air pressure to the value printed on the driver's door sticker; if you notice the pressure dropping repeatedly, read our article on low tire pressure causes, signs, and solutions.
• Listen for any squealing or metal grinding when braking, and notice whether the car pulls to one side when you press the pedal.
• Make sure the brake pedal feels firm, not soft, and that the handbrake holds the car on a slope.
• If you notice any unusual symptom, see the signs of failing car brakes and deal with it before the appointment.

 

Do dashboard warning lights and exhaust smoke affect the inspection result?

Usually, yes; warning lights that stay on indicate a fault in a system, and thick smoke or a strong smell from the exhaust points to improper combustion whose effect may show up in the emissions test.

• Start the car and watch the dashboard: the warning lights should go out a few seconds after starting.
• If the check engine light stays on, have the cause diagnosed by a qualified technician; you can learn about the causes of the check engine light before visiting the workshop.
• Also watch the brake, ABS, and airbag lights, as each of them is linked to a safety system.
• Watch the colour of the smoke at start-up and when accelerating; thick blue or black smoke, or persistent white smoke, needs diagnosis, and you will find details in our article on the causes of thick smoke from a car.
• Listen to the exhaust, as a sudden loud noise usually means a leak or a hole in the exhaust system.
• Do not clear the fault codes from the car's computer or disconnect the battery right before the inspection to hide the light; this does not fix the fault, and the light may come back.

 

What other parts should you review before the appointment?

After the main systems, there are small details that many people overlook, even though they relate to safety and are easy to check.

• Windscreen: large cracks, or cracks in the driver's line of sight, may cause a remark, so deal with them early.
• Wipers and washer fluid: replace wiper blades that leave streaks, and fill the washer reservoir.
• Side and interior mirrors: make sure they are intact, secure, and give a clear view.
• Seat belts: pull each belt firmly and make sure it locks and retracts easily, and that the buckle latches securely.
• Horn: make sure it works with a clear sound.
• Steering and shock absorbers: excessive play in the steering wheel or knocking over bumps may indicate a fault in the suspension or steering.
• Leaks: look under the car after it has been parked overnight, as oil or coolant spots need attention.
• Plates and chassis number: make sure both number plates are clean and readable, and that the chassis number (VIN) is clear and not obscured.

 

What are the practical steps on inspection day?

After fixing the issues, what remains is organising the inspection day itself so that everything goes smoothly without unnecessary waiting.

1. Book an appointment in advance through the approved official channels, and confirm the required documents from the same official source.
2. Drive the car a reasonable distance before arriving so the engine is at its normal operating temperature.
3. Make sure there is enough fuel so you do not have to stop or wait.
4. Clear unnecessary items from the cabin and the boot, as the inspector may need to access some parts.
5. Clean the outside of the car, especially the lights and number plates, so they are clearly visible.
6. Keep a copy of the inspection report when finished, whether the car passed or not.

 

What should you do if your car fails the inspection?

Failing the inspection is not the end of the matter; it is a clear list of what needs fixing, and dealing with it calmly saves you time.

1. Read the inspection report carefully, and separate the minor remarks from the faults that need a workshop.
2. Fix every remark mentioned at a reliable workshop, and ask for an invoice that shows the work done.
3. Avoid temporary fixes that hide the fault only for inspection day; they postpone the problem and may put you at risk.
4. Ask the inspection centre about the re-inspection process and its time frame, and book your visit once you are sure every remark has been fixed.
5. After the repair, repeat the same self-check before you go, as some repairs may reveal another issue close by.

 

Frequently asked questions about the periodic car inspection

• When should I start preparing the car for the inspection? Ideally about a week before the appointment, so you have time to fix any issue or order a part that is not in stock.
• Does a new car need preparation before the inspection? It is usually in good condition, but reviewing the lights, tires, and dashboard warning lights is still useful for any car.
• Are small issues such as a burnt-out bulb worth fixing before the inspection? Yes, they are among the easiest and quickest repairs, and fixing them early spares you a remark that could have been avoided.
• Is washing the engine before the inspection enough to hide a leak? No, washing does not treat the source of the leak; it is better to fix the cause itself.
• Does the periodic inspection replace a pre-purchase inspection? No, a pre-purchase inspection is more comprehensive and looks at the condition of the engine, transmission, body, and the car's history.

 

Preparing your car for the periodic inspection does not require great expertise, just an organised review well before the appointment. Check the lights, tires, brakes, and dashboard warning lights, fix the minor issues yourself, and leave the deeper faults to a qualified technician; this way you pass the inspection more easily and, more importantly, you drive a safe car all year round.

If your car stalls right after starting, shuts off when you stop at traffic lights or in traffic, or the engine dies when you press the brake to stop, the cause is usually that the engine cannot hold a steady idle speed. The most common causes are a dirty throttle body, a leak in the vacuum hoses, a faulty mass air flow sensor, or low fuel pressure, and in cars with an automatic transmission the cause may lie in the transmission itself. This article focuses on these specific situations; for the engine shutting off suddenly while driving, see our article on the causes of sudden car engine shutdown.

How do you pin down exactly when your car stalls?

• Stalling a few seconds after starting usually points you to fuel pressure, the immobilizer, or idle air control during a cold start.
• Stalling when you stop at traffic lights with the car idling is usually linked to a dirty throttle body, an air leak, or the sensors.
• Stalling the moment you press the brake while the car slows down points to the brake booster, the automatic transmission, or the engine failing to adjust its speed when you lift your foot off the accelerator.
• Also note: does it happen when the engine is cold or hot? With the AC on or off? And does the rev counter drop gradually before stalling, or suddenly?
• Write these observations down and share them with the technician, as they shorten the diagnosis more than any general description of the problem.

 

Why does the car start and then stall after a few seconds?

• Low fuel pressure due to a tired fuel pump, a clogged filter, or a faulty pressure regulator; the engine runs on the fuel already in the line and then stalls when no more arrives.
• The immobilizer: if it does not recognise the chip in the key, it may let the engine start for a second and then cut the fuel, and a key or padlock light usually flashes on the dashboard.
• A dirty throttle body, or an idle air control valve in older cars, so not enough air enters to raise the engine speed during a cold start.
• A faulty coolant temperature sensor can make the computer think the engine is hot when it is cold, so it gives it a mixture that is not suitable for a cold start.
• A large air leak from a disconnected or cracked hose, letting in air that has not passed through the mass air flow sensor and is not counted by the computer, which upsets the mixture.

 

Why does the car stall when stopped or at idle?

• A dirty throttle body is one of the most common causes; carbon built up around its opening restricts airflow at idle in particular.
• A faulty or dirty mass air flow sensor gives the computer a wrong reading of the incoming air, which upsets the mixture at low engine speed; learn about the symptoms of a faulty mass air flow sensor and how to look after it.
• Vacuum hoses or intake gaskets crack with summer heat and age, and the effect of the leak shows at idle more than at any other time; you may hear a whistle from the engine bay.
• An EGR valve stuck open in cars that have one, so exhaust gases flow back into the intake at idle and weaken combustion.
• Weak spark plugs or ignition coils show clearly at low engine speed as a shudder that can end with the engine stalling.
• Extra loads such as the AC and the cooling fans bring these faults out faster, because the engine needs to raise its speed slightly to compensate.

 

Why does the car stall when you press the brake?

• The brake booster (the vacuum canister behind the pedal) relies on vacuum from the engine; if its diaphragm tears or its hose cracks, a lot of air enters the engine every time you press the brake.
• Signs of this include a hissing sound when you press the pedal, a pedal that is harder than usual, and the engine speed dropping the moment you press it. This is a safety-related fault, so see the dangerous signs of failing car brakes and have the car checked quickly.
• In an automatic transmission, a clutch inside the torque converter locks the engine to the transmission at higher speeds; if it does not release when you stop, the engine stalls with a noticeable judder, just as a manual car stalls if you stop without pressing the clutch.
• This fault is usually linked to an electric valve (solenoid) in the transmission or to the condition of the transmission fluid, and it needs to be checked by a transmission specialist.
• When you lift your foot off the accelerator and press the brake, the computer must adjust the idle air quickly; if the throttle body is dirty, the engine speed drops too far and the engine stalls.
• If the fuel level is very low, the fuel may move away from the pickup in the tank under hard braking, so the car stalls momentarily.

 

What role do sensors and the car’s computer play in stalling?

• A crankshaft sensor that is starting to fail may drop its signal momentarily, so the engine stalls at a stop or after it warms up; read about the symptoms of a faulty crankshaft sensor and its effect on starting.
• The throttle position sensor (TPS) tells the computer that your foot is off the accelerator, and if it gives a wrong reading, the computer may not control the idle properly.
• After the battery is disconnected or the throttle body is cleaned, some cars need an idle relearn so the engine speed settles, otherwise they may stall at stops for a while.
• Many of these faults store a code in the computer, and the check engine light may come on with them; learn about the causes of the check engine light.
• A weak alternator or poor ground connections can lower the voltage at idle, which disrupts the sensors and the injectors.

 

What should you do if your car stalls at traffic lights or in traffic?

1. Stay calm and switch on the hazard lights immediately.
2. Keep your foot firmly on the brake, and be aware that the pedal and the steering wheel become heavier when the engine stalls because the assistance drops, but both still work with more effort from you.
3. Put the transmission in P or N, then restart the engine.
4. If the car starts, move to a safe place out of the lane to monitor the situation.
5. If the stalling happens more than once, do not keep driving in traffic or on highways, and have the car towed to the workshop.

 

What tests pinpoint the cause of stalling?

• Reading fault codes and live data with an OBD scanner, such as the mass air flow sensor reading, the idle speed, and the engine temperature.
• A smoke test to find air leaks in the vacuum hoses, the intake tract, and the brake booster.
• Measuring fuel pressure while starting and at idle.
• Inspecting the throttle body and cleaning it the right way, with an idle relearn if the car requires it.
• Checking the transmission and the torque converter if the stalling happens specifically when stopping with the transmission in D.

 

How can you reduce the chance of your car stalling at a stop?

• Stick to the air filter replacement schedule, especially with the dust and sand of the Kingdom’s climate.
• Have the throttle body cleaned when needed at a workshop that knows how to handle your car, as some electronic throttle bodies are damaged by incorrect cleaning.
• Do not let the fuel run down to empty regularly, as this strains the fuel pump and may cause a momentary fuel cut.
• Visually inspect the rubber hoses at every scheduled service, as heat makes them crack over time.
• Watch for any change in the idle, such as shuddering or a fluctuating rev counter, and fix it early before it turns into stalling.

 

Frequently asked questions about a car stalling at a stop

1. Is a car stalling at a stop dangerous? It can be dangerous in traffic and at junctions, because brake and steering assistance drop, so do not delay the inspection.
2. Why does the car stall at a stop after a battery change? Some cars lose their stored idle values after the battery is disconnected, and may need to be driven for a while or need an idle relearn in the way the manufacturer specifies.
3. Does cleaning the throttle body always solve the problem? It solves it only if carbon is the cause; leaks, sensors, or the transmission need a different fix.
4. Can the fuel itself be the cause? Fuel contaminated with water or unsuitable for the car can cause misfiring and stalling, in which case an inspection is needed and the tank may have to be drained.
5. Why does the car stall at a stop only when it is hot? This may be linked to sensors whose performance changes with heat, such as the crankshaft sensor, or to a fuel pump that weakens in the heat, and an inspection while the problem is happening helps a lot.

 

A car that stalls after starting, at idle, or when braking does not have a single fault; it is a sign whose meaning changes with its timing. Pin down exactly when the problem happens, start with simple checks such as the throttle body, the hoses, and the air filter, and do not put off the repair, because an engine dying in traffic affects your safety before it affects your car.

If your car cranks but does not start, meaning you hear the starter turning the engine normally but the engine does not fire, the problem is usually that the engine is missing one of three things: fuel, spark, or permission to start from the car’s computer. The most common causes are a weak battery that turns the engine slowly, a fuel pump that is not pumping, worn spark plugs or ignition coils, a faulty crankshaft sensor, or an immobilizer that does not recognise the key. In this article, we put the causes in order and explain simple checks that help you pinpoint the problem before you go to the workshop.

What is the difference between a car that cranks but won’t start and one that does not crank at all?

• Cranking without starting means the starter works and turns the engine with its usual sound, but combustion does not begin, so the engine does not keep running on its own.
• If you press the start button or turn the key and hear only a click, or nothing at all, the engine is not cranking, and the cause is usually the battery, the connections, or the starter itself, as we explained in our article on the signs of a failing starter motor.
• Identifying the situation accurately saves you time and money, because each case has a different diagnostic path.
• Also pay attention to the cranking speed: slow, laboured cranking is different from normal cranking, and cranking that is faster than usual with an odd sound is a sign to stop immediately.

 

What does an engine need in order to start?

• Fuel reaching the injectors at the right pressure and in the right amount.
• A strong spark from the spark plugs at the right moment, which depends on the ignition coils and on the crankshaft and camshaft sensors.
• Clean air flowing in freely, and good compression inside the cylinders so combustion can take place.
• Approval from the car’s computer, which blocks injection or spark if the immobilizer does not recognise the key.
• If any of these elements is missing, the engine may crank without starting, so diagnosis is about ruling them out one by one.

 

What fuel-related causes make a car crank but not start?

• Running out of fuel or a faulty fuel gauge; the gauge may show fuel while the tank is almost empty, especially if its readings have been erratic lately.
• A failed fuel pump: in many cars you may hear a faint hum from the tank area for a few seconds when you switch the ignition on without cranking, and the absence of this sound may point to a pump problem. Learn more about fuel pump problems and how to protect the pump.
• A blown fuel pump fuse or a failed pump relay, a relatively simple fault that still cuts off the fuel supply completely.
• A clogged fuel filter or low fuel pressure, so the fuel arrives in an amount that is not enough to start combustion.
• Filling up with the wrong fuel for the car or fuel contaminated with water; in this case, do not keep trying to start the car and have it inspected.

 

Can a weak battery make the engine crank but not start?

• Yes. A weak battery may be enough to turn the engine slowly, but the voltage drops during cranking, so the computer, injectors, and coils do not get what they need to work properly.
• Its signs include laboured cranking that gets slower with each attempt, and the dashboard lights or screen dimming while you try to start.
• Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, as white or green corrosion around them weakens the connection.
• Summer heat in the Kingdom strains the battery and shortens its life, so do not be surprised if it weakens without warning; see car battery failure symptoms and how to extend its life.
• If the car starts after being connected to another battery with jumper cables, the problem is most likely the battery or its charging system.

 

What spark and sensor causes stop the engine from firing?

• Worn spark plugs or plugs wet with fuel do not produce a strong enough spark, especially if their replacement is long overdue; you can find more details on spark plug types and when to replace them.
• Failed ignition coils or a problem with their power supply can weaken or cut the spark, and if the fault is in the whole ignition circuit, the engine will not start.
• The crankshaft sensor is one of the most important causes here; it tells the computer the engine’s position and speed, and if it stops sending a signal, the computer may block both spark and injection. Read about the symptoms of a faulty crankshaft sensor.
• The camshaft sensor works with the crankshaft sensor to set the timing, and its failure can cause hard or delayed starting in some cars.
• Many of these faults leave a fault code in the car’s computer even if the check engine light does not come on, which is why an OBD scan is useful.

 

Could the cause be the immobilizer or the key?

• The immobilizer only allows the engine to start when it recognises the chip in the key; if it does not, the engine may crank without starting, or start for a second and then shut off.
• In many cars, the sign is a light shaped like a key or a car with a padlock flashing on the dashboard after you try to start.
• In cars with a push-button start, the key fob battery may be weak, and many systems allow starting by holding the key close to the start button or in a spot specified in the owner’s manual.
• Try the spare key; if the car starts with it, the problem lies in the first key, not in the engine.

 

What does it mean if the engine cranks faster than usual or you smell fuel?

• If the cranking sounds faster and lighter than usual, as if there is no resistance, the cause may be a broken timing belt, a fault in the timing chain, or a major loss of compression.
• In this case, stop trying to start the car immediately, because continuing may increase the damage in some engines, and have the car towed to the workshop.
• A strong smell of fuel after several attempts may mean the engine is flooded, meaning the spark plugs are wet and can no longer ignite the mixture.
• If you suspect flooding, wait a while before the next attempt; some cars offer a mode that clears excess fuel when the accelerator is pressed all the way down while cranking, so check the owner’s manual before trying this.
• If you see smoke or smell burning wires, stop trying, move away from the car, and call for help.

 

What can you check yourself before going to the workshop?

1. Check the fuel level, and do not rely on the gauge alone if you have any doubt.
2. Switch the ignition on without cranking, watch the dashboard lights, and listen for the sound of the fuel pump.
3. Note how fast the engine cranks: slow cranking usually points to the battery, while normal cranking points you towards fuel, spark, or sensors.
4. Check the battery terminals, and try a jump start with jumper cables if the cranking is slow.
5. Try the spare key if the immobilizer light comes on.
6. Keep each starting attempt short, about ten seconds or less, and wait a little between attempts so you do not overwork the starter and the battery.
7. Check the fuse box for a blown fuel pump or ignition fuse, using the owner’s manual as a guide.
8. Read the fault codes with an OBD scanner if you have one, or ask the workshop to do it.

 

When should you stop trying and call for help?

• When you hear metallic grinding or loud knocking while cranking.
• When you suspect a broken timing belt, or when smoke or a burning smell appears.
• If the simple steps above do not work, because guessing and replacing parts at random costs you more than a single professional inspection.

 

Frequently asked questions about a car that cranks but won’t start

1. Can an automatic car be push-started? No, cars with an automatic transmission usually cannot be started by pushing; it is better to use jumper cables or call for help.
2. Why does the car crank but not start after being parked in the sun? High heat can expose a weak battery or affect sensors and electrical parts that have started to fail, so note when the problem repeats and tell the technician.
3. Does the check engine light always come on when there is a fault? Not always; some faults store a code without turning the light on, which is why a scan is useful.
4. How many starting attempts should I make before stopping? A few short attempts with breaks between them are enough; insisting on cranking can drain the battery and overwork the starter for nothing.
5. Does replacing the spark plugs always solve the problem? No, it only solves it if the spark plugs are the cause, so check the fuel, the battery, and the sensors first instead of replacing parts at random.

 

When your car cranks but does not start, begin with the simplest things: fuel, battery, and key, then move on to spark and sensors. Paying close attention to the cranking speed, the sounds, and the dashboard lights saves you a lot of time, and if you cannot find the cause, a scan at a trusted workshop costs less than replacing parts by guesswork.

You read a tire size from the number printed on its sidewall, such as 265/65R17: the first number is the tire width in millimetres, the second is the ratio of the sidewall height to the width, the letter R means the tire has a radial construction, and the last number is the rim diameter in inches. The tire manufacture date is found in the last four digits of the DOT code; the first two digits are the week number and the last two are the year of manufacture, so the code 2324 means the twenty-third week of 2024. In this article we explain the rest of the numbers and symbols printed on tires, and how to use them when replacing tires or buying a car.

Where do you find the tire size and manufacture date?

All the information you need is printed on the tire sidewall, but the original size recommended by the car manufacturer has other sources too:

• The tire sidewall: the size is shown in clear characters, usually followed by the load index and speed rating.
• The DOT code: a series of letters and numbers that starts with the word DOT and ends with the manufacture date; the full code may appear on only one side of the tire.
• The sticker on the driver’s door frame or inside the fuel filler flap on many cars, which shows the original size and the recommended air pressure.
• The owner’s manual, which lists the approved sizes for the car; there may be more than one size depending on the trim and rim size.
• The spare tire may be a different size from the main tires on some cars, so do not rely on it to find out the size.

 

How do you read a tire size? A practical example of 265/65R17

1. 265: the tire width in millimetres from one side to the other; the bigger the number, the wider the tire.
2. 65: the ratio of the sidewall height to the tire width, meaning the sidewall height equals 65 percent of the width; a smaller number means a shorter sidewall, which is common with large rims.
3. R: the type of tire construction, meaning it is radial, which is the common construction in car tires today.
4. 17: the diameter in inches of the rim the tire is fitted on, which must match the rim size exactly.
5. You may find the letter P before the size, indicating a passenger car tire, or LT, indicating a light truck tire designed for higher loads, or there may be no letter at all.

 

What do the load index and speed rating on a tire mean?

Right after the size you will usually find a number and a letter such as 112T, and these are among the most important things to match when replacing tires:

• Load index (112 in the example): a number indicating the maximum weight a single tire can carry at the specified pressure, converted to a weight using a standard table; 112 equals 1,120 kilograms per tire.
• Speed rating (T in the example): a letter indicating the maximum speed the tire is designed to sustain under test conditions; for example, T means 190 km/h, H means 210 km/h, and V means 240 km/h.
• This rating is not an invitation to drive at that speed; it is a limit of the tire’s capability, and keeping to the posted speed limits on the road is always a must.
• When buying, choose a load index and speed rating equal to or higher than those recommended by the car manufacturer, and never lower.
• The XL or Reinforced marking means the tire is reinforced to carry a higher load than a standard tire of the same size, and it may need a different air pressure according to the manufacturer’s recommendation.

 

How do you find the tire manufacture date from the DOT code?

1. Look on the sidewall for the word DOT followed by a group of letters and numbers representing the factory code and tire specifications.
2. Look at the last four digits of the code, which are usually inside a small oval frame or set apart from the rest of the code.
3. The first two digits are the week of the year, and the last two digits are the year of manufacture.
4. Example: the code 2324 means the tire was made in the twenty-third week of 2024, and the code 0825 means the eighth week of 2025.
5. If you cannot find the four digits on the outer side, look at the inner side of the tire.
6. If you find only three digits instead of four, the tire is very old and was made under an earlier coding system, and using it is not advisable.

 

What other markings are printed on the tire sidewall?

• MAX PRESS: the maximum air pressure the tire can withstand, not the pressure you should inflate it to; the correct pressure is on the driver’s door sticker or in the owner’s manual. To learn about the effect of incorrect pressure, read about the causes, signs, and solutions for low tire pressure.
• TWI or a small triangle mark on the tire shoulder: it shows where the wear indicators are inside the tread, and when the tread surface wears down to their level, the tire must be replaced.
• ROTATION with an arrow: it means the tire has a specific direction of rotation and must be fitted so that it turns in the direction of the arrow.
• OUTSIDE and INSIDE: these appear on asymmetric tires to show which side faces outwards when fitted.
• TUBELESS: it means the tire works without an inner tube, which is common on modern cars.
• M+S: it means the tire is designed to handle mud and snow to some degree, and you often find it on four-wheel-drive vehicle tires.
• Some tires carry ratings for treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance (Treadwear, Traction, and Temperature) that help you compare tires.

 

How long does a tire last, and how does summer heat affect it?

• Rubber ages over time even if the tire is not used much, so tread depth alone is not enough to judge whether a tire is still fit for use.
• High heat and direct sunlight speed up the hardening and cracking of rubber, which matters in the Kingdom’s hot climate, especially for cars that stand in the sun for long periods.
• There is no single lifespan that suits every tire; some tire and car manufacturers recommend regular inspection after several years from the manufacture date and replacement after a set period regardless of tread condition, so refer to the owner’s manual and the tire maker’s recommendations.
• Signs of an ageing tire include fine cracks in the sidewall or between the tread blocks, hardened rubber, and a change in its colour.
• Any bulge or bubble on the side of a tire is a danger sign that requires replacing it immediately and not travelling on it.
• The spare tire ages too, so check its date and pressure from time to time even if you have never used it.

 

How do you use this information when buying new tires or a used car?

1. Stick to the size recommended for your car, and if you want to change the rim or tire size, consult a specialist, because changing the overall wheel diameter can affect the speedometer reading and safety systems; to learn about the effect on fuel consumption, read about how the wrong rims affect fuel consumption.
2. Read the manufacture date on every tire before fitting, ask for it to be as recent as possible, and make sure the tires have similar manufacture dates.
3. Fit two tires of the same size, type, and wear level on each axle, so the car does not behave differently when braking or cornering.
4. When inspecting a used car, read the dates on all four tires and the spare; old tires or tires of different sizes and types mean an expense coming your way soon, and this is one of the important tips before buying a used car.
5. Look at the wear pattern too; one edge wearing more than the other may point to a problem with wheel alignment or the suspension.
6. After fitting new tires, ask for them to be balanced, and set the air pressure according to the driver’s door sticker, not the number printed on the tire.

 

Frequently asked questions about tire size and manufacture date

1. Can I fit a tire with a different size from the original? The car manufacturer may approve more than one size, but any change outside the approved sizes should be made after consulting a specialist, because it can affect steering, the speedometer, and braking.
2. Is an unused tire new regardless of its date? No; rubber also ages in storage, so ask for a recent manufacture date and make sure it was stored away from sun and heat.
3. What is the difference between 265/65R17 and 265/70R17? The width and rim diameter are the same, but the sidewall of the second is taller, so the overall wheel diameter is larger, and swapping between them is not advisable without checking the car’s specifications.
4. Is good tread depth enough? No; also check the manufacture date and the condition of the sidewall, because an old tire may have hardened, cracked rubber even though its tread looks good.
5. Where do I find the right air pressure for my tires? On the sticker on the driver’s door frame or in the owner’s manual, not the number printed on the tire sidewall.

 

Reading the numbers printed on the sidewall takes no more than a minute, but it protects you from buying the wrong size or a tire that has been sitting in storage for a long time. Remember three rules: the size must match the car manufacturer’s recommendation, the last four digits of the DOT code tell you the tire’s age, and the correct pressure is written on the driver’s door, not on the sidewall.

Wheel balancing means distributing weight evenly around the tire and rim so they spin without vibration, while wheel alignment, known in tire shops as alignment or arm alignment, means adjusting the direction and tilt of the wheels relative to the car body and the road so the car tracks straight and the tires wear evenly. In short: balancing fixes shaking and vibration, and alignment fixes the car pulling to one side, an off-centre steering wheel, and uneven wear. In this article we explain each service separately, the signs that you need it, and when you need both together.

What is the difference between wheel balancing and wheel alignment?

Many drivers confuse the two services because they are usually done at the same tire shop, but each has a different purpose, machine, and set of symptoms:

• Purpose: balancing evens out the weight of the tire and rim as one unit, while alignment adjusts the angles of the wheels relative to each other and to the car body.
• How it is done: balancing is done on a balancing machine after the wheel is removed, while alignment is done on an alignment rig with the car standing on its wheels.
• Main symptom: the need for balancing usually shows as vibration in the steering wheel or seats at certain speeds, while the need for alignment shows as the car pulling to one side or an off-centre steering wheel.
• What gets adjusted: in balancing, small weights are added to the rim; in alignment, the steering linkages and adjustment points in the suspension are set.
• The result: neither service replaces the other, because a car can have balanced wheels with poor alignment, or the other way round.

 

What is wheel balancing and how is it done?

1. No tire or rim leaves the factory perfectly balanced; one part may be slightly heavier than the rest, and at high rotation speeds this small difference turns into noticeable vibration.
2. The technician removes the wheel and mounts it on a balancing machine, which spins it and identifies where the extra weight is and how much weight is needed to offset it.
3. Before measuring, the rim must be cleaned of mud and sand packed inside it, because this changes the weight distribution and gives a false reading.
4. The technician adds small metal weights to the inner or outer edge of the rim, either clip-on or adhesive depending on the rim type.
5. The test is repeated on the machine until the reading shows the wheel is balanced; the wheel is then refitted and the nuts are tightened in a crisscross pattern to the torque specified by the car manufacturer.

 

What are the signs that your wheels need balancing?

• Vibration in the steering wheel that appears at a certain speed and may ease once you go past it, usually coming from the front wheels.
• Vibration in the seat or floor of the car, which often comes from the rear wheels.
• Wavy wear or repeated patches on the tire tread instead of even wear.
• A balancing weight has fallen off, and you may see the mark where it used to be on the rim.
• New tires have been fitted, a tire has been removed from the rim to repair a puncture, or a wheel has taken a hard hit from a pothole or speed bump.
• Because vibration can have other causes, such as the brakes, the suspension, or the engine, see our article on the most important causes of car vibrations if it continues after balancing.

 

What is wheel alignment and which angles are adjusted?

Alignment is not about the tire itself but about how the wheels are mounted on the suspension and steering systems. The car is placed on a special rig with sensors or cameras that measure the angles and compare them with the manufacturer’s specifications, and the technician then adjusts them. The most important angles are:

• Toe: the direction the front of the two wheels points, inwards or outwards, when viewed from above; it is one of the angles with the greatest effect on how fast tires wear.
• Camber: the inward or outward tilt of the top of the wheel when viewed from the front; when it is off, one edge of the tire wears more than the other.
• Caster: the forward or backward tilt of the steering axis when viewed from the side; it affects the car’s stability in a straight line and how the steering wheel returns to centre after a turn.
• Not every angle is adjustable on every car; if one of them is out of specification and cannot be adjusted, this may point to a bent or damaged suspension part that needs repair.
• A four-wheel alignment is preferable if the car allows it, because the rear wheel angles also affect the direction the car travels.

 

What are the signs that your car needs an alignment?

• The car pulls to the right or left on a flat, straight road without you moving the steering wheel.
• The steering wheel is tilted and not centred while the car is driving in a straight line.
• The inner or outer edge of the tire wears more than the rest of the tread, or there is a slanted, feather-like wear you can feel when you run your hand over the tread.
• The tires squeal in corners at normal speeds, or the steering feels unstable or does not return easily after a turn.
• Note: a car pulling to one side can be caused by different air pressures between the tires, so check the pressure first and read about how low tire pressure damages car performance.
• The cause can also be a sticking brake on one wheel, especially if it comes with a rubbing noise or smell, so review the signs that your car brakes are failing before deciding the problem is the alignment.

 

When do you need balancing and alignment together?

1. When fitting new tires: balancing is essential for every tire, and an alignment check protects the new tires from early wear.
2. After replacing steering or suspension parts, such as tie rod ends, control arms, or shock absorbers.
3. After a hard hit on a kerb, a pothole, or a speed bump taken too fast, especially if the car feels different to drive afterwards.
4. When changing the size of the rims or tires, or after raising or lowering the car; to learn about the effect of this change, read about how the wrong rims affect fuel consumption.
5. As part of routine maintenance: it is advisable to check the alignment from time to time according to the owner’s manual, even without obvious symptoms, because a slight misalignment wears tires out silently.

 

How do you keep your balancing and alignment right for longer on Saudi roads?

• Slow down before speed bumps and potholes, and avoid climbing kerbs or scraping against them when parking.
• Keep the recommended air pressure in all tires and check it regularly, especially as temperatures change between summer and winter.
• After desert trips and driving in sand or mud, wash the inside of the rims, because packed mud and sand can cause vibration that feels like poor balancing.
• Rotate the tires (swap their positions) as recommended in the owner’s manual so wear is spread evenly.
• Do not delay fixing any knocking or looseness in the suspension and steering, because loose parts quickly throw the alignment off even if it was recently set.

 

Frequently asked questions about balancing and alignment

1. Are balancing and alignment the same service? No; balancing evens out the weight of the tire and rim, and alignment sets the wheel angles, and each has its own machine and symptoms.
2. Does alignment fix steering wheel vibration? Usually not; speed-related vibration is most often caused by unbalanced wheels or a defect in the tire or rim, while alignment fixes pulling and uneven wear.
3. Why did the vibration come back after balancing? The rim may be bent, the tire may have an internal defect, a weight may have fallen off, or the wheel may not be seated correctly on the hub because of dirt or rust.
4. Do I need an alignment every time I change tires? It is not mandatory every time, but it is advisable, especially if the old tires were worn unevenly.
5. Can I do balancing or alignment myself? Both require precise measuring equipment, so it is best to have them done at a properly equipped tire shop.

 

Balancing and alignment are simple services, but they protect your tires and suspension and make driving more comfortable and safer. Remember the easy rule: vibration usually means balancing, and pulling or wear on one edge usually means alignment. If the symptoms continue after both services, do not ignore them; ask for a full check of the tires, rims, suspension, and brakes.

To jump-start a car you need jumper cables and another car with a healthy battery, or a charged portable jump starter. Connect the red cable to the positive terminal on both batteries, and the black cable to the negative terminal on the helper car and to an unpainted metal point on the engine of the car that will not start, then run the helper car for a few minutes before starting yours. The correct order is what protects you from sparks and protects the electrical systems of both cars from damage. If your battery keeps giving you this problem, first read about the symptoms of car battery failure and how to extend its life; here, we explain how to jump-start a car in practice, step by step.

What do you need before jump-starting a car battery?

• Jumper cables of a suitable length and good thickness, with firm, well-insulated clamps; very thin cables heat up and do not carry current efficiently.
• A helper car with a healthy battery of the same voltage, as most ordinary cars use a twelve-volt system, or a fully charged portable jump starter.
• The owner’s manuals for both cars, because some cars place the battery in the trunk or under a seat and provide dedicated jump-start points under the hood.
• Gloves and safety glasses if available, and a flashlight if you are working at night.
• A dry cloth to wipe the terminals, and a small brush if they have white or green deposits that prevent good contact.

 

What safety precautions should you take before connecting jumper cables?

• Inspect the dead battery visually: if it is swollen, cracked, leaking fluid, or giving off a strange smell, do not try to jump-start it, and call for help.
• Park both cars on level ground without them touching, apply the handbrake, and put the gear selector in Park (P), or in neutral with a manual transmission.
• Switch off the engine, air conditioning, lights, and radio in both cars, and remove the key or switch off the smart ignition system.
• Identify the terminals clearly: the positive is marked (+) and usually has a red cover, and the negative is marked (−) and usually has a black cover.
• Do not smoke or bring any flame near the battery, because the battery can release a flammable gas.
• Remove metal watches and rings, and keep the cables and loose clothing away from the fan and belts, because the electric radiator fan can start suddenly.

 

How do you jump-start a car with cables step by step?

1. Connect the first red clamp to the positive (+) terminal of the dead car’s battery.
2. Connect the second red clamp to the positive (+) terminal of the helper car’s battery.
3. Connect the first black clamp to the negative (−) terminal of the helper car’s battery.
4. Connect the last black clamp to a clean, unpainted metal point on the engine or body of the dead car, away from the battery and moving parts, or to the ground point specified in the owner’s manual; a small spark may appear when making this connection, and keeping it away from the battery is safer.
5. Make sure the clamps are secure and not touching each other, and that the cables are away from the fan and belts.
6. Start the helper car and let it run for a few minutes at normal idle without pressing hard on the accelerator.
7. Try to start the dead car, and do not hold the starter for more than a few seconds at a time so the starter motor does not overheat.
8. If it does not start, wait a minute or two and try again, and if several attempts fail, stop and look for another cause.

 

How do you disconnect the cables and what should you do after starting?

1. Leave both engines running, and disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection: the black from the dead car first, then the black from the helper car, then the red from the helper car, and finally the red from your car.
2. Do not let the clamps touch each other or any metal part of the car while disconnecting, because the end of a cable stays live as long as its other end is connected.
3. Do not switch your car off straight away; drive it on a continuous trip of about half an hour if possible, because short trips are not enough to recharge the battery.
4. Use accessories as little as possible on this trip to give the alternator a chance to charge the battery.
5. Have the battery and charging system checked at the first opportunity, because a jump-start is a temporary fix that starts the car but does not fix the reason the battery went flat.

 

How do you use a portable jump starter?

A portable jump starter saves you from waiting for another car, and it is useful on desert trips and roads between cities, but it has steps that must be followed.

1. Make sure the device is charged, and read its instructions, because some devices have a power button or a special mode for completely flat batteries.
2. Switch off the car and all accessories, and make sure the device is off before connecting it.
3. Connect the red clamp to the positive terminal, and the black clamp to the negative terminal or to an unpainted metal point, according to the device and car instructions.
4. Switch the device on, then start the car, and once the engine is running, switch the device off and disconnect the black clamp, then the red one.
5. Recharge the device after use, and do not leave it in the car in direct sunlight for long periods, because extreme heat harms its battery.

 

Why won't the car start even with a jump-start?

• Rapid repeated clicking: the current is most likely still weak; make sure the terminals are clean and the clamps are secure, and let the helper car run longer before trying again.
• A single click or complete silence with bright dashboard lights: the problem may be in the starter motor or its connections rather than the battery; learn the signs of a failing starter motor to tell the two cases apart.
• The engine cranks normally but does not start: the battery is usually not the cause here, and the problem may be with fuel delivery or ignition, so do not strain the starter with repeated attempts.
• The car starts and then dies shortly after, or its battery goes flat again within a day or two: the alternator may not be charging, or there may be a constant electrical drain while the car is off, and reading about common car electrical problems and how to solve them will help you here.
• Corroded or loose terminals: deposits and corrosion on the terminals stop current from flowing even if the battery is charged, so clean them and tighten them.

 

What are the common mistakes when jump-starting a car?

• Reversing the polarity by connecting red to negative, which can damage the fuses and electronic devices in both cars.
• Connecting the last black cable directly to the negative terminal of the dead battery instead of a ground point away from it, bringing the spark closer to the gas rising from the battery.
• Letting the clamps touch while one end of the cable is connected, causing sparks and possibly damaging the cables.
• Trying to jump-start a battery that is swollen, cracked, or leaking fluid.
• Holding the starter for a long time, or repeating attempts without waiting, so the starter motor overheats.
• Switching the car off right after it starts, so the battery goes flat again and needs another jump-start.

 

Frequently asked questions about jump-starting a car battery

1. Does jump-starting harm a modern car’s electrical system? If it is done in the correct order with good cables, the risk is low, but reversed polarity or touching clamps can damage fuses or electronic devices, so check the owner’s manual for any special instructions.
2. Can you jump-start a car from a hybrid or electric car? Some manufacturers do not allow a hybrid or electric car to be used to jump-start another car, and some specify dedicated points for this, so the owner’s manual is the reference here.
3. Can an automatic car be push-started if its battery is flat? No, cars with an automatic transmission cannot be push-started, and a jump-start is the most suitable solution for them.
4. How many times can the same battery be jump-started? There is no fixed number, but needing a jump-start more than once in a short period means the battery or the charging system needs checking.
5. Does summer heat make the battery go flat more often? Extreme heat speeds up battery deterioration over time, so check it before summer and before traveling, and make sure its terminals are clean and tight.

 

Jump-starting a car is simple if you stick to the correct order and safety precautions: red on positive first, the last black clamp on a metal point away from the battery, and disconnecting in reverse order. Always keep jumper cables or a portable jump starter in your car, and treat repeatedly needing a jump-start as a signal to check the battery and charging system before it leaves you stranded somewhere remote.